Alignment shop in DFW worth a hoot
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Alignment shop in DFW worth a hoot
Sitting in the waiting area at huffines Chevrolet as my 16 Zo6 supposedly gets a 4 wheel alignment. Had terrible inner front wear and just put new own tires on at 14k miles. Tires had steel belts shredded. So I asked that the initial settings be check so we can discuss adjustment. Tech just tells the service advisor it would be set to within specs. Tech also says the rear thrust angle is the rear castor when I asked about that measurement. Now I question if he is even certified. Anyway, i know I will need to go somewhere that will accommodate my desire to get an alignment done right. Any advice?
update to my post. My service advisor did a great job working with the tech. He asked others to pitch in and insure my requests were taken care of. The post alignment angles were definitely to my satisfaction. Car rides correct and hopefully the tire wear issue is resolved. I will watch wear and if not good i would still be looking for a precision shop if someone can recommend.
update to my post. My service advisor did a great job working with the tech. He asked others to pitch in and insure my requests were taken care of. The post alignment angles were definitely to my satisfaction. Car rides correct and hopefully the tire wear issue is resolved. I will watch wear and if not good i would still be looking for a precision shop if someone can recommend.
Last edited by Hooked4Life; 01-09-2018 at 07:04 PM.
#2
Drifting
"setting within specs" can give you the exact tire wear you have already experienced!!!!
How do you know the "post alignment angles" are to your liking. If you wore the inside corners to the cords, then most likely your setting for toe was at the limit of the spec. With the camber spec, and street driving, you have to be at almost zero toe to prevent inside corner wear. What I try to get is to look at the contact patch and make sure the contact patch is centered on the tread, and set camber (for a street only car) so that at zero toe the contact area is centered on the tread.
As far as rear caster, yes, it is a variable now that the C7 has two eccentrics on the LCA. From what I am gathering, the zero caster setting described in the OM is because at this setting the toe changes the least when the suspension is loaded/unloaded. The average Chev tech cannot tell you the effect of the caster setting, and with the tie rod GM put on the C7 it is really tough to optimize street alignments on a C7.
How do you know the "post alignment angles" are to your liking. If you wore the inside corners to the cords, then most likely your setting for toe was at the limit of the spec. With the camber spec, and street driving, you have to be at almost zero toe to prevent inside corner wear. What I try to get is to look at the contact patch and make sure the contact patch is centered on the tread, and set camber (for a street only car) so that at zero toe the contact area is centered on the tread.
As far as rear caster, yes, it is a variable now that the C7 has two eccentrics on the LCA. From what I am gathering, the zero caster setting described in the OM is because at this setting the toe changes the least when the suspension is loaded/unloaded. The average Chev tech cannot tell you the effect of the caster setting, and with the tie rod GM put on the C7 it is really tough to optimize street alignments on a C7.
#3
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5th Gear over in Lewisville. Thank me later
#4
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Are you in Dallas? He asked for a reputable shop to do alignments. Not a lesson on aligning..
N. Carolina is a long way from Dallas toto....
N. Carolina is a long way from Dallas toto....
"setting within specs" can give you the exact tire wear you have already experienced!!!!
How do you know the "post alignment angles" are to your liking. If you wore the inside corners to the cords, then most likely your setting for toe was at the limit of the spec. With the camber spec, and street driving, you have to be at almost zero toe to prevent inside corner wear. What I try to get is to look at the contact patch and make sure the contact patch is centered on the tread, and set camber (for a street only car) so that at zero toe the contact area is centered on the tread.
As far as rear caster, yes, it is a variable now that the C7 has two eccentrics on the LCA. From what I am gathering, the zero caster setting described in the OM is because at this setting the toe changes the least when the suspension is loaded/unloaded. The average Chev tech cannot tell you the effect of the caster setting, and with the tie rod GM put on the C7 it is really tough to optimize street alignments on a C7.
How do you know the "post alignment angles" are to your liking. If you wore the inside corners to the cords, then most likely your setting for toe was at the limit of the spec. With the camber spec, and street driving, you have to be at almost zero toe to prevent inside corner wear. What I try to get is to look at the contact patch and make sure the contact patch is centered on the tread, and set camber (for a street only car) so that at zero toe the contact area is centered on the tread.
As far as rear caster, yes, it is a variable now that the C7 has two eccentrics on the LCA. From what I am gathering, the zero caster setting described in the OM is because at this setting the toe changes the least when the suspension is loaded/unloaded. The average Chev tech cannot tell you the effect of the caster setting, and with the tie rod GM put on the C7 it is really tough to optimize street alignments on a C7.
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#7
Drifting
I'm not sure why you have what appears to be ill will against me. I only meant to offer a little to help the OP make good choices. After all, he asked for any advice.
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He was also asking for a local alignment shop and experiences.
No ill will..... I digress...
No ill will..... I digress...
#11
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