Appreciate your opinion however what is done is done and there is nothing at all wrong with the shocks I bought it's just they are not magna ride and the computer doesn't recognize them. If you do not have a solution your opinion is not worth much. Sorry, do not mean to be rude but I need solutions not opinions. I have plenty of those myself!

 

Here are notes I pulled from the forum years ago on the F45/F55 removal on 1997 to 2003 cars. The 2004 takes a few more steps but I have not found a good list of those.

1. Hook up Tech 2, turn car on, make sure module in the rear is plugged in. Do not unplug the rear module.
2. Use Tech 2 to delete the F45 option (F55 does not appear on the menu screen, use F45).
3. Save new configuration.
4. Do not turn car off, do not remove Tech 2. Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the grey connector (the widest one), leave any other plug(s) in. [leave the other 1 (F45) or 2 (F55) plugged in]
5. Turn off car, leave Tech 2 plugged in.
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of car. [never plug them back in again, if you do the F45 turns on automatically], remove the F45/F55 module from the car.
7. Turn car on to verify the "max speed 80 mph" is gone.
8. Unplug Tech 2.

 

Correct. #6 is key there. The little computer box behind the velcro secured fabric shell panel on the forward wall of the driver rear compartment needs to be disconnected. You can remove it ow and sell it or throw it away.

 

Thank you I will send your input to my mechanic, I sure hope it helps!

 

They are garbage. Low-quality shocks with resistors to "shut up" the warning system. Just get regular Bilsteins and have a mechanic use a Tech 2 to tune out F45/F55 (you can find specific instructions for both here as you see).

 

Easy for you to say, I am $2100 into these shocks. Another opinion is not needed. The shocks I purchased do not have resistors to "shut up" the warning system. As I stated earlier, I don't need opinions I need facts.

 

The solution would have been to come here from the start instead of copping lip when people try to guide you clear of what you already messed up. The polite way of saying we're wasting our time to try to unscrew your screw up for you so we're not the ones to be mad at when the responsibility falls to you and to your mechanic who cannot seem to use Google. Sucks about the expense though.... You could have been on some really sweet comfy coilovers for same.

 

I am sorry if I sounded rude that was not my intent. I am mad at no one. Just looking for help and I did ask here to begin with. I have no clue what the last sentence means? Comfy coilovers? What is that?

 

Then I take it back.

Coilovers are an aftermarket alternative or upgrade for these cars. The car as it stands has the black leaf springs which are mounted transversely. It then has shocks front and aft and that is the failed part you have had trouble replacing. Coilovers combine the parts into a single assembly on each wheel with a shock mounted inside a coil spring. A coil over a shock. A coilover. They are often purchased as a performance increase and people set them to be stuff rebound values. They also lower the car slightly which brings a lower center of gravity. Myself? I have left them pretty "soft" in the settings in the past and enjoyed an experience where the car could then take corners amazingly while not feeling any stiffer at all. Likewise, ruts and ridges or large bumps no longer jar the car through crosstalk.... The factory sideways mounted leaf springs tend to make both sides feel the bump and exaggerate it where coilovers make the car fully independent suspension. One wheel hits a pothole? That one wheel absorbs the motion. The rest of the car is left far less affected.

The price range to buy coilovers often starts around 1600 and tops nest 2800 for good quality setups. Dedicated race kits on up from there.

Vikings can be bought valved to your driving preference if you reach out to KellTrac. Vikings are one of the preferred brands. Avoid BC or Silvers.
​​​​​​