I have been in the process of getting a new upgraded cam installed in my '13 Z06. A few weeks ago my engine builder gave me the bad news that my oil pump was scored and probably should be replaced. So went down that rabbit hole, no more GM pumps, so my only option was the Katech track pump for $1,700. Got that and just took it to him today, he then says come on back to where my engine is, well this guy is really thorough and he motions me over to where my heads are on the work bench. You guessed it, the heads I had "fixed" 6 years ago had every valve guide trashed. Some were 6+ thousandth's of wiggle. So guess I dodged another bullet. I don't know how much longer it would have gone before it dropped a valve. Whew. He recommended I change over to roller rockers because the geometry on the stock rockers just doesn't work. Anyway just ordered a set of TSP shaft roller rockers ( they are not on their website have to ask for them) to go with all the other parts. So far a simple cam shaft upgrade has been way more expensive than planned, however it is surly better than a aerated block. Should be done in a few weeks IF I don't have anything else that needs replacing.

 

So who did the head work? "Fixed" stock castings are not a guarantee as the geometry doesn't change.

 

Wiggle = Approx. 2x Valve Guide Clearence

 

The same shop did the head work with upgraded trunions.

 

Sooooo.. name the shop???? So other's can be informed perhaps?

 

I have no issues with the shop or their work. If I wanted to blast them I would. You can see clearly when actuating the rocker across the tip of the valve the rocker tip going completely across the valve tip putting too much side load on the valve.

 

To the OP, you said heads "fixed" 6 years ago, but how many miles and how was the car used; road racing; 1/4 mile, roll racing, half mile, standing mile, etc.

 

Can you detail what was done to "fix" the heads; new or reused OEM int/ext valves, stainless steel ext valves, heads ported, valve guide material, stock cam or aftermarket, and probably most importantly, stock GM rockers or aftermarket roller tipped and brand, etc?

It appears to me that the GM OEM slider rocker design along with the geometry issue with the LS7 heads if not machined perfectly seems to be a critical component of valve train failures and should necessitate the mandatory replacement of the GM rockers with a roller tipped one whether the heads are being reworked or bone stock.

As I have stated previously, at this point in the life cycle of these LS7 engines and knowing what the issues are now with the LS7 valve train, I, personally, would strongly consider replacing the GM heads with NEW aftermarket LS7 non GM heads, several of which are offered by vendors on this forum. I guess I have learned over the years sometimes with most things in life that the motto of "if ain't done twice, it ain't done right" can often be avoided just by doing it right the first time, mining all the fine details, X2 learning from my mistakes.

 

Assuming the shop that did the head work previously used stock valve guides. If so, not surprising that they are worn out again.

 

Not so sure about assuming the stock GM valve guides were used since there are many documented cases of valve issues with NON GM stock LS7 guides, as well.

That question AND the rocker type, stock GM rocker slider (side forces on the valve) or aftermarket roller tip rockers, are becoming a very relevant factor, as well, now that much time has elapsed with "fixed and refixed" heads showing issues.

 

OP, the chewed up oil pump may be due to higher levels of Titanium in the oil. People sometimes assume that comes from the OEM Ti intake valves or aftermarket Ti retainers. In my case, I was concerned that it came from the TI connecting rods rubbing each other on the crankshaft journals, so I had the bottom end redone with forged steel Con rods and an improved forged crankshaft in addition to the Katech oil pump and added baffles in the oil pan. Has your engine builder checked to bottom end to see if the Ti rods have rubbed thru the protective coating?

 

I will try to answer the last 5 posts all in one long answer.
The car has never been tracked, dragged or abused, that doesn't mean the engine hasn't seen 7000 rpm. It has and it will again. The first oil change was done @500 miles and has been changed every year or 1500 miles with Amsoil signature oil. When the car does sit in winter (mid December to mid March) it gets started weekly and left to warm up to full operating oil temp before shutting down. The car sits in a climate controlled garage 12 months out of the year. I only let one technician ever touch this car.
The heads were "fixed" in February of '20, the car at that time had just over 11K miles. I bought the new with delivery miles on it. The car currently has just under 18K miles. The car has not been driven since late last summer when the engine was producing a noticeable tick that I was pretty sure was a lifter. I wasn't able to get the engine pulled until late October and take it to my engine guy.
The heads when fixed consisted of new Ferrea exhaust valves, valve stem seals, valve springs (with 20lbs more pressure over OE open and closed) bronze guide liners ( my invoice does not specify) spring seat spacers,trunion kit and shims. Other work done included valve job,surfacing the heads and a bowl blend.
The engine is/was stock cam, push rods, OE rockers and intake valves.
The only other changes are a professional tune, Halltech MF 103 air management system, 48 lbs. injectors, Corsa catless X-pipe and Corsa sport axle back exhaust.
The new parts going in are a Comp cam to my specs not a shelf grind, TSP 1:82 roller rocker CHE twin shaft pkg. Crower short travel lifters, Katech track flow blue oil pump.
The cam bearings, and crank have all been inspected and are good. The oil pump was inspected because #8 exhaust roller lifter wheel was pitted and that is believed to the cause of the oil pump getting scored. Could have reused the OE pump, however this car is my toy, I have no intention of getting rid of it. I guess I just like the LS7 better than anything else on the market so at 67 I'm going down with the ship so to speak.

 

Did you want to protect the company that ripped you off so that its more fair?

 

Thanks for explanation and answers.

Were the heads reworked in 2020 for a reason or preemptively trying to avoid future issues?

Thoughts on bronze guides and increased valve spring pressure with stock cam lifters and gm rockers?

 

The shop that did my previous work did not rip me off. Your assumption is exactly why I choose to not name a reputable company. If the work had been done by anyone of the vendors on this forum I am sure they would tell you there is NO warranty on performance work. The heads lasted 5 years that's pretty good.

I had the heads reworked as a precaution even though I was skeptical of many of the posts about heads failing. I also believed that if you keep the stock cam that the head fix was sufficient.

 

Well I'm glad I helped in some way by giving you an example to justify your approach. When I read a thread titled "Fixed LS7 heads failed" it lead me to believe you had heads that were fixed and later failed (which is impossible). But I get it now nobody got ripped. It was all a miss-understanding.

 

My apologies, I should have been a bit less caustic. I agree the title of my post could lead one to think I was complaining about a job done poorly and I was bashing them.
Even though I had my heads fixed in 2020 as I precaution, I always thought maybe I was overreacting. And I was pretty sure most people that said their heads failed after being fixed must have contributed to that failure. I now know differently. I drive my car as any corvette owner would expect it to hold up to.
I think at this point I have been fortunate that I didn’t grenade my engine.
I am looking forward to getting this beast back on the road. The TSP rockers will be here tomorrow. Maybe I can get my builder to finish this up soon if nothing else pops up. Obviously this is not an all out max hp build, but it should be a nice bump in performance. After I get it tuned I’ll have to put my draggy on it and see what kind of numbers this thing will put up.

 

All good points. How did you "fix" your LS7 heads?

 

I have not on.my bone stock 10Z06 with 8,600 mile's on the motor, bought new by me in Feb 2010. In July 2025, I did replace the stock OEM ls7 gm rockers with a set of yella terra 1.8 roller tipped aluminum rockers which immediately eliminated 90% of the motor's valve train clatter and sewing machine sound at 1,,700-1,800 rpm which it had since new. I plan to do a valve train inspection again st 10,000 miles and the plan possibly in the future if needed is NEW aftermarket ls7 heads, no "fixing" of my stock OEM heads.

 

Every situation is different. I think we are going to find over time that with increased spring pressures of aftermarket cams require, that the factory style scrub rocker system is not up to handling the 400+ pounds of open load and thus causing side load on the valve. I would also say the little LS7 pedestals probably do not like the extra spring pressure and flex - the rocker arms where they connect them together probably solves this. Tony Mamo (a guy who can spell cylinder head) always uses a roller tip rocker on his set ups for this particular reason.