That doesn't look like a Borla Crossfire OR a Z-pipe brand. It looks like something different but same design.

@Mr.Black we demand answers!

 

Looks like it says HFR HyperFlow on it.

 

That's what I saw too and google machine pulled up nothing.

 

https://hyperflowracing.com/

 

$800 for that.. shhhiiiit..

 

 

That website sucks, lol. Theres like 3 words on it.

What is this supposed to do over a traditional X? Why is it better?

 

Controlled volume crossover with a smooth transition. Question becomes how much scavenging there will be but that design is supposed to do it better with a venturi effect from what I can tell.

Probably worth 2hp.

 

The actual 3 inch Formula Z pipe is 1400 lol.

You are not paying for the pipe, you are paying for their printer.

 

Yes and well, just depends.

I've seen anywhere from 3hp to 30 hp.

Not really doing it for the power anyways. This car makes plenty of power.

If I were to pick up 30 to 50 wheel it would not be from the Z pipe, it would be from going from 2.5 inch exhaust to full 3 inch.

The reality is, we'll never know. There are too many variables.

Just trying to clean up the sound and have some fun doing it.

 

They mostly sell on fleabay.

I'm glad I didn't buy on ebay though.

I emailed them directly and bought directly using CC for protection lol and the guy gave me 50 bucks off, no tax, and free shipping.

 

Larger diameter Exhaust will definitely pick up power.

You plan on installing that Z-pipe?

 

Aliexpress has some Z-pipes for $300~ which is likely where most of the websites reselling them are likely getting them from. When I redo my exhaust I'm likely going to pick one up.

 

[QUOTE=Kubs;1609691101]I had the car out to a local track day on Friday for testing. It could have gone better, but still a positive day.

I made it 3 laps and then blew out the front crank seal. I think the car is building a bit of crankcase pressure (Ive heard this is common on built LS3s and venting or full dry sump is needed). Since it was fine on the dyno, and a couple street drives, I think the issue is the sustained RPM over longer periods of time and not venting quick enough.

I am venting both valve covers to the oil tank, and then venting the tank to the catch can which is open to atmosphere. Now, on the previous engine I was filling the catch can a lot after adding aero due to oil pooling in the heads with more lateral load. In my mind I was trying to control oil flow out of the valve covers and installed baffled fittings on the new engine. However, with the C6 dry sump setup the oil is going back to the oil tank anyway and I dont care if it spills out of the valve covers. I think my baffled fittings were not allowing enough venting and that is what cause the seal to push out after multiple laps. I will also be changing the way the tank vents to the catch can, and possibly adding another line from the tank to keep from building pressure in the tank.

Also, when changing out the seal it was very easy to push the old one into the timing cover and pull it out by hand. I think in addition to the crank pressure the seal wasnt held in enough. I added a light film of RTV around the new seal before pressing it in. Its a used cover, and cant seem to get one sourced quick enough to change it out.

Im glad this happened on the test day and not competition this coming weekend (hence the positive day comment). I didnt want to find issues at an event that counted. The engine felt strong and pulls super hard out of corners. Its a completely different car! Hopefully we can get enough laps to make it through the event this weekend.[/QU


I don't know about others but every time i had to put a seal in it was not as easy as you mentioned if i didn't tap it pretty hard it would not go in. And i always used RTV. And for pass 20yrs i've been min 26ish all the way up to 32lbs of boost.

 

He said Cats were on that car and you can see the stock Axle-back in the vid.

Makes me wonder what other mods but that Cam looks pretty legit for mid range.

 

Yes, I just need to decide on if I want to find someone that can tig weld some 2 inch stubs onto the Z pipe so that I can booger weld onto those?

or do I just be a total hack and mig weld onto that expensive Z pipe lol.

My dyno guy thinks I am right on that tipping point where 2.5 inch exhaust was a restriction hurting the cause to 700 wheel through inefficiency.

I blame him lol for starting me down this 3 inch exhaust path that has been somewhat of a disaster since November.

Just happy to have a combination that is pleasant to daily drive again if needed.

The sound is just off a little bit though. with our without the J tubes the sound is fluttery or kind of diesel farty.

I suspect it is my chinese x pipe that is knife cutting the exhaust pulses.

 

1111

 

 

Most people getting metal 3D printed parts are ordering from CraftCloud which is MOSTLY printed in China.

The Formula Z Z pipe is most likely in the US and therefor $1200. However he does make custom and vehicle specific setups which shows versatility and design.

I have not seen ONE video or dyno proof that the Z pipe design is better than a standard X pipe. Many do it just to be click bait trendy saying they have one on their car. I mean some people spend more JUST for sound, so whatever your reason so be it.

I'd be curious on the sound difference for sure. If it acts similar to the difference of a stock C5 H pipe to a x pipe, that would be cool. The stock C5 H pipe sucks a big ol meat stick. Doubtful it will be THAT drastic but yanno.

Oh and it's official...@Mr.Black has definitely surpassed me with exhaust mods now with this z pipe/megaphone addition.

 

Anything boosted I'd be running 3" Exhaust all day. There's no "tipping point" per se, you are cramming more air in the Engine you need to be able to get it out of the Engine. That's physics.

It'll definitely pick up power.