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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Yes, totally useless info I know, but today we found the true system capacity. This is an extremely extra probably not necessary thorough oil change method no doubt.
I did my oil change today with a forum member on his lift. Both drain plugs out, filter out, then one drain plug back in, pulled the dry sump lines (tons of oil came out, o-rings were changed last oil change), pull the drain plugs again. Even more came out.
We put exactly 11 quarts in and got the oil temp to 175-180, turned it off, and let it sit 5-6 minutes. Exactly on the minimum line on the dipstick. Put in another quart, exactly right below the max line on the dipstick. And we also filled the new oil filter before that got put on.
The more you know I guess, a 12 quart box of Mobil 1 5W-30 put to good use (street driving/highway cruising only)....
Last edited by CorvetteFan1953; Yesterday at 10:48 PM.
what I do, after draining out all that I can, is disconnect the 2 vacuum lines at the top of the oil tank and cap either one with a small rubber cap.
Then, have my assistant (wifey) hold the nozzle of my Milwaukee tire inflator into the other, open one.
This forces an additional quart or so out of the lines (all comes out the pan's forward drain plug). It basically pressurizes the oil tank.
This method is nice, because it doesn't involve disconnecting actual dry sump lines, or worrying about 0-rings.
Using this method, with my 10qt Lingenfelter oil tank, a refill is 10qts (Redline 0w-40). But, I only fill to the center dipstick line(@185f*), because when oil temp increases to 240* on track, it raises the level to the top line.
Now having said all this, do not do what I did on my first attempt at this! Instead of using a low pressure tire inflator, in my infinite wisdom, I used my actual compressor at about 90psi...and made a huge mess as the oil blasted out like a geyser! Lesson learned!
Now if only I could drain out the oil remaining in the large Improved Racing oil cooler (1.5qts +-)...but no biggie, it dilutes
what I do, after draining out all that I can, is disconnect the 2 vacuum lines at the top of the oil tank and cap either one with a small rubber cap.
Then, have my assistant (wifey) hold the nozzle of my Milwaukee tire inflator into the other, open one.
This forces an additional quart or so out of the lines (all comes out the pan's forward drain plug). It basically pressurizes the oil tank.
This method is nice, because it doesn't involve disconnecting actual dry sump lines, or worrying about 0-rings.
Using this method, with my 10qt Lingenfelter oil tank, a refill is 10qts (Redline 0w-40). But, I only fill to the center dipstick line(@185f*), because when oil temp increases to 240* on track, it raises the level to the top line.
Now having said all this, do not do what I did on my first attempt at this! Instead of using a low pressure tire inflator, in my infinite wisdom, I used my actual compressor at about 90psi...and made a huge mess as the oil blasted out like a geyser! Lesson learned!
Now if only I could drain out the oil remaining in the large Improved Racing oil cooler (1.5qts +-)...but no biggie, it dilutes
So you blow through the disconnected lines or through the nipple on the oil tank? Definitely going to try this method.
I’m guessing we got almost every drop out, but who knows.
im guessing you got more of it out than I did, as your ZR1 has the water/oil cooler setup on the side of the pan, so that does likely drain out...unlike my big A2W cooler in front
That is a pretty low temperature to check the oil level. Will be over max at over 200 degrees, and unlike the wet sump systems, these systems don't take to being overfilled very well. I'd recommend shooting for half-way mark at those temps to give yourself headroom for when you actually drive it aggressively and get real temps.
That is a pretty low temperature to check the oil level. Will be over max at over 200 degrees, and unlike the wet sump systems, these systems don't take to being overfilled very well. I'd recommend shooting for half-way mark at those temps to give yourself headroom for when you actually drive it aggressively and get real temps.
I had the same thought. At 200 it is right on the max. Couldn’t be any more perfect. When we put the 12th quart in (counting whatever we put in the oil filter too), it was just below the max line.
Last edited by CorvetteFan1953; Today at 01:01 PM.
Previously, I would always re-install the 2 drain plugs & then remove the 2 dry sump lines (easy). After the procedure for checking the oil, I used 11.5 quarts.
As per CorvetteFan1953 post, leaving out the 2 oil drain plugs when removing the 2 dry sump lines gets me an extra 1/4 of a quart more out which equals a total of 11.75 quarts.
As TommyC6Z06 previous mentioned about worrying of the dry sump line O rings, I bought 2 (GM 15217990) O rings many years ago just in case. I'm still using the existing OEM O rings to this day.
I use to track my ZR1 for years & the lines are still bone dry.
Previously, I would always re-install the 2 drain plugs & then remove the 2 dry sump lines (easy). After the procedure for checking the oil, I used 11.5 quarts.
As per CorvetteFan1953 post, leaving out the 2 oil drain plugs when removing the 2 dry sump lines gets me an extra 1/4 of a quart more out which equals a total of 11.75 quarts.
As TommyC6Z06 previous mentioned about worrying of the dry sump line O rings, I bought 2 (GM 15217990) O rings many years ago just in case. I'm still using the existing OEM O rings to this day.
I use to track my ZR1 for years & the lines are still bone dry.
Indeed! The o-rings can be used for a long time. Only the last oil change did I finally see the rubber start to fray and rip.
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