I applied a ceramic wax and the results were spectacular. Very impressed with this original paint from 2000.

 

I had decent weather this afternoon so I got a work out in and decided to tear into my Z06. I figured since I drove it the other day the Battery would be nice and charged so I could get the Column to unlock.

The first thing I did was with the Key still in after I pulled it out of the garage was remove Fuse #23 in the inside of the car. This is for the Body Control Module as well as the Steering Column Lock Relay. This is a crucial step.
Then I disconnected the Battery.

I pulled all the Cover Panels out of the way and found the Steering Column Lock Relay. Isolated that out of the wiring clipped the two wires going toward the Steering Column and capped them off with heat shrink, tucked them off up in the wiring harness. The power wire going into the Relay I found in the harness, clipped that and double capped it with heat shrink then tucked it back up in the harness. I put a zip tie up in that area so it's nice and secure. Taped up the wiring up in that area and brought the tape down below the cover enough so when I install the LMC5 Module I can clean it up real nice.

I pulled down the Relay Connector as far as I needed to at the moment to install everything later, there is still one more wire according to the Schematic that's going to get clipped, capped, and tucked up. Then I'll tape everything up nice. That Relay looks the same as the Starter Relay next to it so there's a good one for a spare. It'll look good when it's done.

Put the Fuse back in, connected the Battery Car turned on and pulled back in the garage without an issue, definitely all kinds of Service Column Lock and Pull Key, Wait 10 Sec messages. Pretty sure it'll drive fine since I tuned out the Fuel Shut Off I haven't driven it out of my driveway yet, I'll do that another day. Definitely different not hearing the Column Lock Motor anymore.

 

^man i still don't get why folks go through all that effort when the very simple, effective and time-proven CLB


i've had mine running for over 20 years!

 

I paid less for what you posted, and I'm removing more stuff from the car that won't be needed. I know what the LMC5 is and how it bypasses the Column Lock Relay. That's why I'm removing what I am instead of adding an extra part to the car ontop of what's there.

Relay and wiring removed, small Module installed in it's place is a win to me instead of having the factory Relay there to activate an inline box. That's extra crap to go wrong.

What I did is next level, most won't go that route. Slight OCD I don't want useless **** in the car and I have some wiring knowledge.

 

I noticed when I cut the tub out I accidentally knicked a brake line (even though I covered them and thought I had them well protected). So last night I cut the bad part out and flared the end. Fortunately the pre made lines I bought when I rerouted them were too long and I had enough reserve to make it work.

I also got the trunk panel installed and covered back up with carpet.

 

I hate flaring. You might consider heat wrapping that line that crosses your exhaust tube. I think I might be boiling my fluid near my headers and just bought a bunch of heat shield for my lines.

 

The best flares I've ever done on those Lines in my life, are when I left the flare nut off.

 

The picture makes it look closer that it is, but I do have some extra wrap I can use.

 

goddammit that made me laugh so ******* hard ahaha

I think better (worse?) is when you get all your bends and flare perfect, ******* minty fresh- and the nut is on the wrong side of the bends and can't be fished down lmao. Talk about "time for a beer and a nap"

 

Oh I've been there on the bend one, just have to walk away.

After what I did yesterday with that wiring laying in the position I was with that car on the ground I had a couple drinks before I went to bed.

 

just wait 'til you're in your '70's!!

 

That's why as soon as I can I'll have a Shop with a Two Post Lift.

 

a good plan but with the 2-post lift but the arms still need to be adjusted for each vehicle..................it's not only hard for me, might be for you as well, to kneel down, really effing hard to get back up!!

 

That thought has crossed my mind as well, fortunately at the moment I can move but yes that is one of the procedures with using that type of Lift.

 

Since finishing the interior sound deadening project 2 weeks ago, I embarked on a project I've wanted to do for 6+ years: JBL GT0804 8" subwoofer (old one from my prior-wrecked car) in the right-rear trunk cubby.

First I started "CAD" cardboard-aided design to determine the sizing of the cubby. No useful pics of that process.

Then with CAD computer-aided design I developed a proper 3D model. Space is tight with this sub so modeling everything has helped me:

• Ensure adequate internal clearance for the subwoofer
• Determine interior volume: sub is rated for a sealed enclosure of 0.3ft^3, and I nailed it @ 0.31ft^3
• Create template drawings for easy cutting and pilot drilling in 1/2" MDF

It's certainly not the prettiest box but should blend in decently with the right carpet.
The lower rectangular portion sits in the cubby and is hidden while the upper triangular portion sits on top of the trunk carpet.

 

I came close to doing the same recently for my driver side tub when I was considering putting my air tank in the center and removing the bass enclosure already there. I decided against that arrangement and am leaving the interior of the trunk alone now except for the battery relocation.