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They will save far more $ than they pay out in Warranty claims and so what if the customer is disadvantaged. Some on the chat board will do work arounds and the 98% of other customers will shell out $800-1200 if they have the problem out of warranty and be pissed at GM (who won't care). Not one single customer will be happy the Chevy saved 9 oz. on their behalf, not even track rats.
I tied some clear fishing line to the trunk release and slid it inside the trunk to the rear fender "crease/joint"(between the rear fender and bumper). It fit inside the "joint" fine. Ran it down to the rear wheel. Taped it to the inside of the wheel well. If I need to open [pull away from tape and pull out of fender joint. It will pull with the rear hatch closed and open the trunk. I used 15 lb line and works great with no drilling and cost $0 if you know a fisherman. LOL
Here’s another option. I drilled a tiny hole through the ‘tub’ by going through the right rear louvre (upper left corner). I routed my pull cable through the hole and secured it to the bottom side of a fin with a small piece of tape. Sealed the hole with a tiny amount of body putty. This approach provides a straight pull. It’s totally out of sight and readily accessible if ever needed. My biggest challenge will be remembering that I did this if the latch would fail in 10yrs. I’m 69
now. Ugh.
Not sure what I'm looking at , what is the last picture in you post . Thanks
They will save far more $ than they pay out in Warranty claims and so what if the customer is disadvantaged. Some on the chat board will do work arounds and the 98% of other customers will shell out $800-1200 if they have the problem out of warranty and be pissed at GM (who won't care). Not one single customer will be happy the Chevy saved 9 oz. on their behalf, not even track rats.
Written like a true cynic.
True, but cynical..
Meanwhile, another forum seems more interested in keeping good relations with GM (to get "scoops" and...schmoozing rights at the Bash?) basically told members with complaints to suck it up. That might be harsh, but that's the way I read the reply.
I didn't get the feeling they'd bring it up the next time they met with the big wigs.
He was told by an engineer that the union members didn't like installing them.
Huh? I thought that's part of getting a paycheck, doing stuff we don't wantto do.
So there are various theories why GM deleted the lock...
-cost
-weight
-difficult installation
and I don't think they've every said why.
Come on, someone say something?
It's difficult for owners to feel good when no one wants to go to bat for them.
Really. Factory instructions tell untrained techs to go into the trunk with an unspecified tool.
If Hyundai gave dealers/owners instructions like that, they'd be the laughing stock of the industry. Late night comics would make "Yugo" jokes about them.
But GM does it with a straight face to buyers of their $100,000+ corporate flagship.
My cynicism on this issue comes from being fortunate to pay my dealer $800 to replace the failed trunk solenoid on my C6Z. Yes I could get in using the interior button or the key, but I like things to work the way they are supposed to. It would be a far greater hassle on my C8Z had I not done one of the cheap home made fixes.
I am on the other forum and follow their decorum requests. There is far less info on the other site. They sometimes go days without a post in the C8Z section.
AZDAVE
I'm on your side. I'm a big fan of cynicism when it comes to politics and large car companies.
I want things to work...and have a legitimate back up if they don't.
Not some "call the dealer" , wait a week for an appointment, then some disgruntled tech who's upset for getting a *** assignment, fumbles around with whatever he can find in his tool box.
GM's reply seems to be " don't put stuff in your trunk".
Good thing they don't make airliners (any longer).*
Pilot asks "What should we do if this breaks?
Official GM response..."Don't fly."
* fun fact. A GM subsidiary built the aircraft that Notre Dame coach Knute Rockne died in when a wing separated in flight.
Some airlines replaced their wooden Fokkers (yes, the Fokkers of WWI fame) with Ford Tri-Motors. (Yes, that Ford).
If that story doesn't get me kicked out of a Corvette forum, nothing will.😁
Installing a 2022 Emergency Trunk Latch in a 202302026
I have been following the discussion about the idiotic decision by GM of the removal of the Rear Trunk Emergency Key Latch on the 2023 and up Corvette trying to decide what action to take to work around this deletion. I watched every video of the many alternate methods to install a cable or make a tool to be able to open the trunk if the electronic latch failed.
I saw one video from a C8 owner that installed the 2020 – 2022 Rear Trunk Emergency Key Latch in his 23 C8. It was very short and did not elaborate or discuss the installation other than the biggest issue was having to remove the rear bumper to do the install.
The ½” Hole for the Key Latch assembly is still in the rear bumper cover, but is no longer in the rear trunk bulkhead as well as the mounting screw holes are missing . The Electronic Latch assembly is easily accessed by pulling the rear liner out of the way. There is plenty of room to install the 2022 Factory OEM Rear Trunk Emergency Key Latch without removing the Electronic Latch or any of the other components located in the area . The only reason that you would have to remove the rear bumper would be if you wanted to use bolts to mount the latch as the factory did. There is a simpler and better way to install the OEM Latch assembly. The latch can me mounted an secured by using three #10 x ½” self tapping bolts or by using three 3/16”-24 x ½” bolts and NutSerts. I chose the self tapping screw method as it was simpler.
The tools you will need is a 1/8” drill bit, a ½” drill bit, three Cleco’s and a Cleco tool and something to make a template for the mounting bracket. Refer to attached picture.
I ordered the OEM Rear Trunk Emergency Key Latch Parts – P/N 8481199 from Flow Automotive Center - $138.00. The part number includes the Rear Trunk Emergency Key Latch and the Drivers Door Emergency Key Latch Assembly’s with matching keys. I received the parts with in ten days.
INSTALLING THE LATCH;
1. Make a template of the latch mounting plate-(I used a piece of 1/8” ABS plastic), and measure where the center of the key cylinder is and mark the three mounting holes on the template. Using the 1.8” drill bit drill a 1/8” hole in the center of the three mounting holes you marked on the template.
2. Using the ½” drill, drill a hole in the bulkhead using the hole in the cover as a reference.
3. Drill a ½” hole in the template where you measured the center of the key hole is located.
4. Insert the Shank of the ½” drill thru the ½” Key Hole in the rear bumper and Install the Template on the ½” drill shank with the two mounting holes down and the straight edge of the template on the left side and push the Template against the rear bulkhead with the top hole up and the straight edge of the template vertical..
5. Hold the Template against the bulk head and use the 1/8” drill bit using one of the mounting holes that you drilled a 1/8” hole in on the bottom of the mounting bracket and drill a hole in the rear bulkhead. NOTE; BE CAREFULAS THERE IS ONLY ABOUT 5/8” SPACE BETWEEN THE BULKHEAD AND THE REAR BUMPER COVER.
6. Using one of the Cleco”s insert it thru the Template an secure the template and then drill out the other bottom hole and insert a Cleco and then drill the top pilot hole with the 1/8” drill bit. When finished drilling, remove the Template and the ½” drill bit.
7. If using the Nutserts method to mount the latch you will have to drill the proper size hole in the bulkhead to install the Nutserts before installing the Latch assembly.
8. If you use the self-tapping bolt method position the Latch assembly on the bulkhead and secure it in place using the Cleco’s.
9. Using a drill install the self tapping bolts using care not to over torque and strip out the holes in the bulkhead. The bolts should only be tightened to 10 inch lbs MAX.
10. Attach the cable to the Electronic Latch assembly using the OEM location that is on the latch next to the Kiddie Handle Cable.
11. Finally TEST the installation and Re-install the rear trunk liner and you are done.
12. You now have a separate key that is not a match to your car, You can replace the Emergency Door Latch Assembly with the one that came with the trunk latch to having matching keys or Tag the key and store it in the Glove box.
13. I was able to complete the installation in less than an two hours. I now have peace of mind if my Electronic Latch were to fail for any reason.
That's only for the frunk. Cannot do that for the trunk.
You do realize once you are into the Frunk you can hook up power to the 12 volt socket or the battery itself then pop the trunk normally ? Or are we worried about the trunk release motor dying which I would think is really slim not impossible but really slim.
An electrical power failure or a dead battery is not my concern. If the electronic Trunk Latch fails mechanically or electrically, (and it may be a low failure item) and an idiotic gesture by GM,. From what I have read on this Forum and Other Forums that to get into the rear trunk can be very invasive and costly at the least. Electrical/Mechanical parts do fail and according to Murphy's Law always at the most in-opportune time. So, it is not a matter of "IF", but a matter of "WHEN" and it never hurts to have a back up plan in case.
For $138.00 and two hours of my time to do the install sure is better than a Dealer or Shop at $150.00 and hour and possible damage to the car.
Any Retrofit options that have been posted or videos of the different options to get the trunk open work. This is the option I chose.
I do not know of any Automobile Manufacturer that have Electronic Trunk or Hood latches that do not have a back up mechanical emergency release to open them in case of a mechanical/electrical failure.
Yes, they are more than likely a very small failure Item, but having a back up plan is a lot less stressful in the long run.
I do not know of any Automobile Manufacturer that have Electronic Trunk or Hood latches that do not have a back up mechanical emergency release to open them in case of a mechanical/electrical failure.
My 2018 Honda doesn't have a mechanical release or external lock for the trunk. Also, no way to access the trunk from inside the vehicle. Only electric on the door and remote, same as my C8.
What model 2018 Honda??? Honda Sedans (Civic and Accord) you can access the rear trunk by folding down the rear seats, there is a small cover behind the rear seat or on the interior of the deck lid you have to pry off to access the release cable. On the Honda SUV's You crawl into the cargo area and on the drivers side cargo trim is a small rectangular cover you have to pry off to expose the release lever.
Just Saying.
Last edited by Viperr; Yesterday at 05:45 PM.
Reason: more information!
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