Coopers paint stripping products
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 214
Likes: 76
From: Indianapolis
St. Jude Donor '25
Coopers paint stripping products
Anyone used this stuff on their corvette to remove paint?
https://coopersstripclub.com/
If so any issues? Sure looks easier than most methods?
thanks
js
https://coopersstripclub.com/
If so any issues? Sure looks easier than most methods?
thanks
js
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,694
Likes: 833
From: WI
Have not used Cooper's, but it's worth a shot. Probably works about as well as the others. 
I've used a lot of the old-school strippers for paint. "Modern" paint stripper formulations are generally not as effective as the old stripper. But people have reported them being better (I stocked up back in the day!). Then again, some paints are removed easier than others (even with old MEK strippers), so Coopers is worth a try. I generally used Aircraft Stripper or some of the Kleenstrip strippers, but have used other brands in the past which worked about as well.
Even with the older volatile strippers with MEK, multiple applications/removals ...reapplications were usually needed, depending on the number of coats of paint and type of paints -- to get ALL the old paint off. Every fleck. The problem is old Corvettes often have 3+ coats of paint (plus primers) on them, and there could be 1/16"+ thickness of paint and primers on some older Corvettes!! So, yeah, it can take multiple applications and removals of stripper to get through that Hide of paint. Even when most of the paint is removed after a couple applications (even with old MEK strippers), one STILL needs to go around and deal with those pesky areas which didn't come off (with a razor knife let's say), and THEN go around the body with a scotchbrite pad (and stripper on it), ....to clean ALL the old paint off. Some say adding a bit of MEK solvent to modern formulation strippers, can add more volatility, but I haven't tried it. Research before doing. So the idea that you apply a coat of stripper and it all comes off is a pleasant thought, but it's never that easy. It's still work.
I don't think any stripping method is quicker than the others, but stripper seems to be the best way to remove paint and get down to the original GM primer (or fiberglass) and preserve original bodylines. I like to do the job with the garage doors open (or outside under a shade tree in the summer) where fumes weren't as big of an issue. It's a cleaner method and less grunt work than using mechanical sanders. Blasting with media sounds good but can quickly damage/ruin the original fiberglass and create more work. Is the commercial operator of a media blasting outfit who wants to get to lunch, really going to be as careful as you would be? Stripping is relatively 'clean' and you can go one panel at a time if that suits your pace/timeline. I would generally let the old (stripped) paint on the floor newspapers dry up, before tossing into the trash (or burn barrel).
Then the key after stripping is to wash the car off before the stripper dries. Use a scotchbrite pad as you are washing it off, to ensure you get any dried stripper off (very important!). Remove ALL stripper residue. This is where people with sad stories weren't thorough. Use a stiff brush if needed to get any remaining or dry stripper out of nooks and behind panels, etc. Once ALL the stripper has been removed, washed and neutralized, .....Then let car sit plenty long (2 weeks??) in dry weather (sun for a day or two helps), to 'breathe' and let the moisture dry out of the fiberglass. 2 weeks isn't a hard number but let it sit plenty long....
/
I've used a lot of the old-school strippers for paint. "Modern" paint stripper formulations are generally not as effective as the old stripper. But people have reported them being better (I stocked up back in the day!). Then again, some paints are removed easier than others (even with old MEK strippers), so Coopers is worth a try. I generally used Aircraft Stripper or some of the Kleenstrip strippers, but have used other brands in the past which worked about as well.
Even with the older volatile strippers with MEK, multiple applications/removals ...reapplications were usually needed, depending on the number of coats of paint and type of paints -- to get ALL the old paint off. Every fleck. The problem is old Corvettes often have 3+ coats of paint (plus primers) on them, and there could be 1/16"+ thickness of paint and primers on some older Corvettes!! So, yeah, it can take multiple applications and removals of stripper to get through that Hide of paint. Even when most of the paint is removed after a couple applications (even with old MEK strippers), one STILL needs to go around and deal with those pesky areas which didn't come off (with a razor knife let's say), and THEN go around the body with a scotchbrite pad (and stripper on it), ....to clean ALL the old paint off. Some say adding a bit of MEK solvent to modern formulation strippers, can add more volatility, but I haven't tried it. Research before doing. So the idea that you apply a coat of stripper and it all comes off is a pleasant thought, but it's never that easy. It's still work.
I don't think any stripping method is quicker than the others, but stripper seems to be the best way to remove paint and get down to the original GM primer (or fiberglass) and preserve original bodylines. I like to do the job with the garage doors open (or outside under a shade tree in the summer) where fumes weren't as big of an issue. It's a cleaner method and less grunt work than using mechanical sanders. Blasting with media sounds good but can quickly damage/ruin the original fiberglass and create more work. Is the commercial operator of a media blasting outfit who wants to get to lunch, really going to be as careful as you would be? Stripping is relatively 'clean' and you can go one panel at a time if that suits your pace/timeline. I would generally let the old (stripped) paint on the floor newspapers dry up, before tossing into the trash (or burn barrel).
Then the key after stripping is to wash the car off before the stripper dries. Use a scotchbrite pad as you are washing it off, to ensure you get any dried stripper off (very important!). Remove ALL stripper residue. This is where people with sad stories weren't thorough. Use a stiff brush if needed to get any remaining or dry stripper out of nooks and behind panels, etc. Once ALL the stripper has been removed, washed and neutralized, .....Then let car sit plenty long (2 weeks??) in dry weather (sun for a day or two helps), to 'breathe' and let the moisture dry out of the fiberglass. 2 weeks isn't a hard number but let it sit plenty long....
/
Last edited by Mark G; Dec 31, 2025 at 02:56 PM.
Old Fart Pilot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,918
Likes: 990
From: Spokane, WA
Did you read the special notices for US users?
Back in 2025 it was supposedly banned for non-professional non-commercial use. Starting this April, it became even more limited for use until 2029 when it'll be totally banned.
This notice is on the website:
US customers: supplied under 40 CFR § 751.107(b)(8) only — commercial/industrial refinishing of pieces of artistic, cultural, or historic value, until 8 May 2029. See full notice and Clause [X] of Terms of Trade.
Their on-line Terms of Trade goes into MUCH more detail...
I suppose restoration shops could use it if corvettes can be considered to have the required A, C, or H value - which IMHO is not hard to believe. However, such use would need a special waiver and associated safety and documentation requirements.
If your shop can still use it, that's great. I wish I could. I considered having it shipped to Canada and bringing it home to use, but the penalties are steep. The chances of being caught might be low but it's a risk I won't make, especially considering having to cross the border...
Back in 2025 it was supposedly banned for non-professional non-commercial use. Starting this April, it became even more limited for use until 2029 when it'll be totally banned.
This notice is on the website:
US customers: supplied under 40 CFR § 751.107(b)(8) only — commercial/industrial refinishing of pieces of artistic, cultural, or historic value, until 8 May 2029. See full notice and Clause [X] of Terms of Trade.
Their on-line Terms of Trade goes into MUCH more detail...
I suppose restoration shops could use it if corvettes can be considered to have the required A, C, or H value - which IMHO is not hard to believe. However, such use would need a special waiver and associated safety and documentation requirements.
If your shop can still use it, that's great. I wish I could. I considered having it shipped to Canada and bringing it home to use, but the penalties are steep. The chances of being caught might be low but it's a risk I won't make, especially considering having to cross the border...
Last edited by nwav8tor; Yesterday at 04:06 PM.