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Valve Adjust After Cam Break In?

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Old May 23, 2026 | 03:49 PM
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I don't know what to think of these rockers, some people have problems with them and some don't.
It looks like the ball and rocker are still seating which is why I was thinking of replacing them.
If it is the cam I don't want to put good roller rockers on and pump metal through them.

The car isn't running like anything is wrong, I'd think if the cam or lifters had a problem it would feel like it's losing horse power.

If I can't trust the lifters and have to pull the intake to inspect them I'm going to replace the lifters at the very least, possibly the cam while I'm at it.
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Old May 23, 2026 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by AKjeff
I don't know what to think of these rockers, some people have problems with them and some don't.
It looks like the ball and rocker are still seating which is why I was thinking of replacing them.
If it is the cam I don't want to put good roller rockers on and pump metal through them.

The car isn't running like anything is wrong, I'd think if the cam or lifters had a problem it would feel like it's losing horse power.

If I can't trust the lifters and have to pull the intake to inspect them I'm going to replace the lifters at the very least, possibly the cam while I'm at it.
An oil filter and quart of oil is pretty cheap peace of mind to know if there's metal in everything or not.
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Old May 23, 2026 | 04:30 PM
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I have less than 400 miles on this rebuilt engine, I don't know what is normal metal for this stage of the break in.
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Old May 23, 2026 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by AKjeff
I have less than 400 miles on this rebuilt engine, I don't know what is normal metal for this stage of the break in.
I might be wrong, but NONE is the only thing that's normal. After mine did what it did and I started looking into it I was blown away at how common it is for this to happen. One oil filter and quart of oil. Maybe $25. Cut that thing open just to see and make sure. Otherwise, if it is eating a cam but your throwing other parts at it, those all might just be trash before you know it too. Hopefully it's fine and move on.
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Old May 23, 2026 | 05:00 PM
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Default home DIYer test

video about 14 1/2 min run time
about 9 mins into it, shows w/ red dykem how you can see that expected wear pattern lifter will print onto lobe.
Yup lotsa detail may not be for every DIYer; beats guessin'


Last edited by Rebelyell; May 23, 2026 at 05:02 PM.
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Old May 23, 2026 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by AKjeff
I have less than 400 miles on this rebuilt engine, I don't know what is normal metal for this stage of the break in.
Originally Posted by LT-1 1970
I might be wrong, but NONE is the only thing that's normal.
Visible metal particles in the oil pan or filter are not normal, but the presence of microscopic particles measured by oil analysis is normal. These break-in particles should be diminishing over time to become a low base amount.

Maybe an oil analysis (~$35, Blackstone* or SPEEDiagnostix) to see what metal types are there and how much is present would be advised. The analyst will give feedback on the results given the miles/run-time on the engine and oil.

*I've only used Blackstone for no other reason than Speed wasn't in business when I started having these tests done.
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Old May 24, 2026 | 07:36 AM
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Pretty easy to check for "lash" at the valve. If you have noise and any measurable lash, you need to open it up right away.
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Old May 25, 2026 | 12:12 AM
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I'm contemplating getting a different cam for it, it runs good now (other than possibly going flat or eating the lifters) with this cam I selected, I'd like to try something else and see how it does.
Possibly go to a roller to hopefully eliminate this happening again.

Last edited by AKjeff; May 25, 2026 at 12:46 AM.
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Old May 25, 2026 | 11:11 AM
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That is an amazing video!
Explains exactly where the lifter should touch the cam.
AKJeff, IIRC you built your diff, you CAN DO THIS!
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Old May 25, 2026 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by leigh1322
That is an amazing video!
Explains exactly where the lifter should touch the cam.
AKJeff, IIRC you built your diff, you CAN DO THIS!
Excellent information. I watched it several times. I also downloaded the document about vacuum. I didn't know how to read my vacuum gauge like its meant too. Looking at it in a whole different way now.
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Old May 25, 2026 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by leigh1322
That is an amazing video!
Explains exactly where the lifter should touch the cam.
AKJeff, IIRC you built your diff, you CAN DO THIS!
I haven't watched the video yet, I've always had a hard time sitting still and paying attention all the way through them.
I will make an effort with this one.

Yes I built the diff, I'm getting ready to build another one, I'll start a thread for it when I get to it.

As far as my engine goes, another possibility has presented itself.
There's a 4 bolt main short block for sale locally, the ad claims it ran good and has a Comp Cam and lifters.
It was replaced with a roller cam block when the owner thought this one was eating the cam.
I'm not sure yet if I want to pull my engine and swap the heads onto that short block, or swap my cam in the car.

It has occurred to me that I should watch the video first, it may help me make up my mind.
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Old May 25, 2026 | 03:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AKjeff
I haven't watched the video yet, I've always had a hard time sitting still and paying attention all the way through them.
I will make an effort with this one.

Yes I built the diff, I'm getting ready to build another one, I'll start a thread for it when I get to it.

As far as my engine goes, another possibility has presented itself.
There's a 4 bolt main short block for sale locally, the ad claims it ran good and has a Comp Cam and lifters.
It was replaced with a roller cam block when the owner thought this one was eating the cam.
I'm not sure yet if I want to pull my engine and swap the heads onto that short block, or swap my cam in the car.

It has occurred to me that I should watch the video first, it may help me make up my mind.
Did you find metal in it or evidence of it eating a cam or a lifter?
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Old May 25, 2026 | 03:44 PM
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I haven't seen anything under the valve covers yet, I've gotten them off and the plugs removed so I can roll it over and check the lift.
Then I started thinking about a new camshaft, I've been reading my old notes and checking out cams online.
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Old May 25, 2026 | 09:02 PM
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You really should measure the existing cam first, and confirm what the issue is.

Other than that we are all just playing arm chair quarterback and guessing!
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Old May 25, 2026 | 09:56 PM
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Measuring the lobes is next, I just need to do it.
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Old May 26, 2026 | 07:50 AM
  #36  
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This is honestly why I am done with flat tappet cams. I know this horse has been beat to death but there is definitely QC issues or some other change when it comes to these newer flat tappet cams and or lifters.
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Old May 26, 2026 | 03:36 PM
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The cam intake lobes are .303 lift (I didn't measure them all when it was new, that's what the cam card tells me), I got .296, .298 and .246.
I can believe the first two might have been error on my part, the last one, #2I, was one of the worst loose ones last time I had valve train noise.

I cut open the oil filter from the first change at 300 miles and found small metal slivers in a few pleats.

This was a bit of a budget build, hence the flat tappet cam, it was also practice for my 383 build when I can get to it.
I already have a custom flat tappet cam for it. After this experiance I'll do a few things different on it.
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