Control Rod & Strut Rod Bushing Replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
Control Rod & Strut Rod Bushing Replacement
I'm doing all of the bushings in the suspension, and I can't find a good way of pressing out the bushings for the rear control and strut rods. There's not enough space between the edge of the rod and the lip of the bushing to seat the rod on something hollow through which to press the bushings out. I did get a couple out by picking off the edge of the bushings to get a stable surface, but that obviously won't work for pushing new ones in. I could burn them out, but, again, I still need a solution for putting new ones in. Suggestions?
Also, are poly bushings really as bad as they're made out to be? I've heard some people say it's better to just get NOS control rods with original rubber, but, surely, poly bushes can't be so bad that 35yo rubber is better.
Also, same goes for the front lower control arm sway bar link bushings.
Also, are poly bushings really as bad as they're made out to be? I've heard some people say it's better to just get NOS control rods with original rubber, but, surely, poly bushes can't be so bad that 35yo rubber is better.
Also, same goes for the front lower control arm sway bar link bushings.
Last edited by criceo; May 11, 2026 at 05:33 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,119
Likes: 1,996
From: St. Charles MO
I'm doing all of the bushings in the suspension, and I can't find a good way of pressing out the bushings for the rear control and strut rods. There's not enough space between the edge of the rod and the lip of the bushing to seat the rod on something hollow through which to press the bushings out. I did get a couple out by picking off the edge of the bushings to get a stable surface, but that obviously won't work for pushing new ones in. I could burn them out, but, again, I still need a solution for putting new ones in. Suggestions?
Also, are poly bushings really as bad as they're made out to be? I've heard some people say it's better to just get NOS control rods with original rubber, but, surely, poly bushes can't be so bad that 35yo rubber is better.
Also, same goes for the front lower control arm sway bar link bushings.
Also, are poly bushings really as bad as they're made out to be? I've heard some people say it's better to just get NOS control rods with original rubber, but, surely, poly bushes can't be so bad that 35yo rubber is better.
Also, same goes for the front lower control arm sway bar link bushings.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2024
Posts: 216
Likes: 85
From: Phoenix, Arizona
I did exactly as you described getting the old bushings out, cut way the lips and then used the open end of a socket to press in to. For pressing the new ones in, I got them started simply laying it against a flat surface and pressing in to. Once they're about 3/4 of the way in (if you've been liberal enough with the lubricant) you can generally just push them in the remainder. I used SuperPro...they will fight you a bit on the way in but will help you seat correctly once out the other side.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
I heard about the poly unidirectional compliance. I have Super Pro bushings for the strut rods and control rods. Do you think burning the old bushings out with a torch would warp the aluminum?
Good to know I can get the Super Pros in without much trouble. What lube do you recommend? I heard some say wheel bearing grease and others say silicone. I was thinking of using silicone brake grease.
Speaking of brakes, I now see why the car had such bad breaking on the way home from the purchase. The front caliper pistons are completely frozen.
Good to know I can get the Super Pros in without much trouble. What lube do you recommend? I heard some say wheel bearing grease and others say silicone. I was thinking of using silicone brake grease.
Speaking of brakes, I now see why the car had such bad breaking on the way home from the purchase. The front caliper pistons are completely frozen.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
About rubber. Some of the autoparts rubber components can be really low quality nowadays. Prime example are the rubber boots on my ball joints. Installed new, the rubber boots cracked after a few years even though the car was in the garage and the car essentially undriven. The OEM boots would last decades.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 156
Likes: 36
From: Cleveland Ohio
I just did super pro bushings on my '96. I used a ball joint press to get the inner sleeve and then the bushing out. Cut off the ends of the bushing-I used a hacksaw and kept the sleeves in so the rubber didn't compress and make it harder to cut. Use a suitable bolt to press the sleeve out and then you'll need a socket to press the bushing. Rent or buy a ball joint press. Clean up the bore with a wire brush on the end of a drill.
To install-I bought a push/pull bushing tool and it was pretty simple if you line things up. I did have trouble with the spindle rod bushings-I had to use a long screwdriver to force the bushing in and it took quite a few attempts because the bushing kept getting sideways and pinched in the bore. Once I decided to "He-Man" it everything went together quickly. Vice to press in the metal sleeve-which again may take a couple attempts. I'll link the bushing tool (I didn't know they existed) and a video explaining how they're used.
To install-I bought a push/pull bushing tool and it was pretty simple if you line things up. I did have trouble with the spindle rod bushings-I had to use a long screwdriver to force the bushing in and it took quite a few attempts because the bushing kept getting sideways and pinched in the bore. Once I decided to "He-Man" it everything went together quickly. Vice to press in the metal sleeve-which again may take a couple attempts. I'll link the bushing tool (I didn't know they existed) and a video explaining how they're used.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
I pushed all of the bushings out using a 36mm socket as a stand. Worked ok. Didn't even need to cut the edges of the bushings first. I figured it wouldn't work, but, lo and behold, even though the rim of the bushings were caught between the arm and the socket, the bushings deformed when pressed enough to come out. I am confident I'll get the new bushings in without issue.
This car has been a good learning experience.
This car has been a good learning experience.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2026
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
Update: all bushings have been pressed in. Unfortunately, the Superpro strut rod bushings aren't the right size. I ordered bushings that were labeled as fitting '87 onward, but two of the four are way too big for my '89. I guess later C4s had different outer-diameter outer and inner bushings for the strut rods; mine doesn't. I think the smaller bushings are of the correct size for my year, but I didn't use them. I opted to use some Energy Suspension poly bushes I had instead. The rest of the Superpro bushings fit fine.
Last edited by criceo; May 19, 2026 at 11:50 AM.