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I'm doing all of the bushings in the suspension, and I can't find a good way of pressing out the bushings for the rear control and strut rods. There's not enough space between the edge of the rod and the lip of the bushing to seat the rod on something hollow through which to press the bushings out. I did get a couple out by picking off the edge of the bushings to get a stable surface, but that obviously won't work for pushing new ones in. I could burn them out, but, again, I still need a solution for putting new ones in. Suggestions?
Also, are poly bushings really as bad as they're made out to be? I've heard some people say it's better to just get NOS control rods with original rubber, but, surely, poly bushes can't be so bad that 35yo rubber is better.
Also, same goes for the front lower control arm sway bar link bushings.
I'm doing all of the bushings in the suspension, and I can't find a good way of pressing out the bushings for the rear control and strut rods. There's not enough space between the edge of the rod and the lip of the bushing to seat the rod on something hollow through which to press the bushings out. I did get a couple out by picking off the edge of the bushings to get a stable surface, but that obviously won't work for pushing new ones in. I could burn them out, but, again, I still need a solution for putting new ones in. Suggestions?
Also, are poly bushings really as bad as they're made out to be? I've heard some people say it's better to just get NOS control rods with original rubber, but, surely, poly bushes can't be so bad that 35yo rubber is better.
Also, same goes for the front lower control arm sway bar link bushings.
The problem with poly bushings in the strut rods and trailing arms (rear suspension) is that the arms move in more than a single plane. In doing so, they require compliance outside of the bushing's axis of rotation. Rubber bushings allowed that - hard poly strongly resists it. That causes bind with poly bushings. This why nobody will make Delrin bushings for the rear: that is even harder than poly and would probably eventually rip the mounts off the frame. The exception here are the SuperPro bushings, which are a much more compliant poly. They are fine. Of course, spherical bearings are fine there as well. Regular hard poly is fine in either front control arm and in the sway bars, since they only require movement around one axis. You cannot get NOS arms or rubber bushings anymore. That's not an option.
I did get a couple out by picking off the edge of the bushings to get a stable surface, but that obviously won't work for pushing new ones in. I could burn them out, but, again, I still need a solution for putting new ones in. Suggestions?
I did exactly as you described getting the old bushings out, cut way the lips and then used the open end of a socket to press in to. For pressing the new ones in, I got them started simply laying it against a flat surface and pressing in to. Once they're about 3/4 of the way in (if you've been liberal enough with the lubricant) you can generally just push them in the remainder. I used SuperPro...they will fight you a bit on the way in but will help you seat correctly once out the other side.
I heard about the poly unidirectional compliance. I have Super Pro bushings for the strut rods and control rods. Do you think burning the old bushings out with a torch would warp the aluminum?
Good to know I can get the Super Pros in without much trouble. What lube do you recommend? I heard some say wheel bearing grease and others say silicone. I was thinking of using silicone brake grease.
Speaking of brakes, I now see why the car had such bad breaking on the way home from the purchase. The front caliper pistons are completely frozen.
About rubber. Some of the autoparts rubber components can be really low quality nowadays. Prime example are the rubber boots on my ball joints. Installed new, the rubber boots cracked after a few years even though the car was in the garage and the car essentially undriven. The OEM boots would last decades.