Has anyone had to have their parking brake drums cut?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 3
From: Warrington, Pennsylvania
Has anyone had to have their parking brake drums cut?
After struggling for years with a parking brake that would barely hold at the last click, I finally pulled the wheels and rotors and adjusted the e-brake shoes. The brake now holds nicely at three clicks, but I’m now hearing a cyclical rubbing sound that I suspect is being caused by an out-of-round condition in one, or both, of the drums.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
After struggling for years with a parking brake that would barely hold at the last click, I finally pulled the wheels and rotors and adjusted the e-brake shoes. The brake now holds nicely at three clicks, but I’m now hearing a cyclical rubbing sound that I suspect is being caused by an out-of-round condition in one, or both, of the drums.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 1,064
After struggling for years with a parking brake that would barely hold at the last click, I finally pulled the wheels and rotors and adjusted the e-brake shoes. The brake now holds nicely at three clicks, but I’m now hearing a cyclical rubbing sound that I suspect is being caused by an out-of-round condition in one, or both, of the drums.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 3
From: Warrington, Pennsylvania
I believe there is only one way to adjust them: I removed the wheels, calipers and mounting brackets and then the rotors. Rotating the adjusters widens the shoes at the base. It may be that they were never set properly to begin with and now that I adjusted them correctly the shoe(s) are contacting a high spot on the drum.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 1,064
I believe there is only one way to adjust them: I removed the wheels, calipers and mounting brackets and then the rotors. Rotating the adjusters widens the shoes at the base. It may be that they were never set properly to begin with and now that I adjusted them correctly the shoe(s) are contacting a high spot on the drum.
I would try re-adjusting it, let it take 4 or 5 clicks to set the brake instead of 3.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 87
Likes: 22
From: SW CO
After struggling for years with a parking brake that would barely hold at the last click, I finally pulled the wheels and rotors and adjusted the e-brake shoes. The brake now holds nicely at three clicks, but I’m now hearing a cyclical rubbing sound that I suspect is being caused by an out-of-round condition in one, or both, of the drums.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
I have scoured the entire greater-Philly area trying to find a shop that still has a drum lathe, and have only found one - and they want $80 each to true them up! I may be old, but that sounds like a usury rate to me! If I can’t find something more reasonable, I may just back off
the adjusters a notch or two and live with the brake handle at five clicks.
Here is something to try prior to readjusting:
In a safe spot, coast at 15-20 MPH and apply the parking brakes to slow the car and seat the shoes to the drums at their new adjustment diameter. Allow to cool and repeat a few times.
Some manufacturers actually prescribe this as part of the parking-brake adjustment procedure.
BTW, I would sooner replace the rotors than trust someone to true them without removing excess material.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
Likes: 1,139
From: Dyer, IN
Did you confirm any measurements of the drum to shoe clearance, or the overall brake shoe lining? Did you check for rotational resistance with the drum installed after cycling the brake 3 times?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 3
From: Warrington, Pennsylvania
I don’t have a caliper to measure the diameter of the drum in comparison to that of the linings. I adjusted each side and felt for a little resistance when I reinstalled the rotors. That’s how I got to three clicks
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,398
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From: Dyer, IN
ok...that's the problem. Just follow the service manual....piece of cake.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 3
From: Warrington, Pennsylvania
Thanks for all the advice and input. I’ll give Vito02’s suggestion a couple of tries to re-seat the shoes to the drums in their new adjustment positions. If that doesn’t correct the problem, the floor jacks will come out again!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,995
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From: Hilton NY
Did you ever clean the old, dried up grease from the parking brake handle internal parts and re-grease them? The handle assembly is where the slop is adjusted out so the drums don't have to be real tight to the shoes, the rotors should slide on and off easy without the shoes binding on them. When the handle internal parts are free to move and self adjust, the parking brakes should hold with only a few clicks.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 3
From: Warrington, Pennsylvania
I’ve owned this car for twenty-five years and I’ve never done that! I don’t have access to a lift, but if I can get to those components with the car up on ramps, I’ll give it a shot. Thanks for the tip!
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 504
From: Hilton NY
You might be able to do this inside the car by removing the carpet and brake handle boot. Put something around the area to absorb any chemicals and spray brake cleaner or similar solvent into the lower parts of the assembly (not the push button) to remove the old grease. Then coat the internals with a good synthetic grease that won't dry out like the factory grease. The rear trunk latch(s) and hood latches also tend to bind up due to the old grease from when the car was built.
Safety Car
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From: Orlando Florida
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Dyer, IN
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
You might be able to do this inside the car by removing the carpet and brake handle boot. Put something around the area to absorb any chemicals and spray brake cleaner or similar solvent into the lower parts of the assembly (not the push button) to remove the old grease. Then coat the internals with a good synthetic grease that won't dry out like the factory grease. The rear trunk latch(s) and hood latches also tend to bind up due to the old grease from when the car was built.
