I'm pretty sure I've stopped all the vacuum leaks. Now I'm just left with one IAC closed and the other open and no way to make them move, jumpering pins a and b on the aldl connector doesn't seem to do anything other then pull a code 12 meaning there is no codes. The rear throttle body is the one with the closed IAC and when I put my finger in the front throttle body I can get it to idle at 700rpm in park just fine.

I do have some fuel line I can jam in the hole as a temporary fix but I'd like to fix it properly. My only thought is that the rear throttle body has the map sensor to confirm proper vacuum so it's letting the IAC on that side close while the front throttle body has nothing to reference since there is no longer an air pump on the car or any sort of emissions left.
Could be completely wrong but I'm just about out of ideas short of doing the intake gaskets and ecm, but I'm waiting for xfireperformance to finish their ECM later this year before I buy an eBay one for like $800 that may or may not work

 

I put in a couple of these two years ago while navigating my surging idle issues and they still work great and were cheap.

 

I put in some A Premium ones off Amazon not too long ago but it's possible they came bad. Although the idle does start low so I'd imagine they do move sometimes. I can see the rear one fully extended in the hole, the front one I was able to slightly see before I fixed my map sensor vacuum line but now I can't see it at all when looking in the hole.
I plugged in my old ones and just sat them on top of the throttle bodies to see if they would move at all in an attempt to control the idle but they didn't, only buzzed slightly when I poked them. They also have about a 0.1 amp constant draw even with the key off. The ECM has about a 0.6 amp draw that I'm also chasing which is why I'm thinking it's gone bad.

I did locate a bad capacitor in the ECM and changed it out but nothing changed at all so I'm not really sure. I've got a few other electrical gremlins to chase aswell. Cruise control doesn't work either and there's no vacuum leaks within the system. So I'm hoping my dash is the cruise control variant otherwise I'm not spending $1000+ just to gain a function I never use anyways

I might try the IAC you showed if I get desperate but I'm not sure it'll change anything