'72 C3 - Droopy Nose - Can it be fixed?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
'72 C3 - Droopy Nose - Can it be fixed?
Hi All, can anyone offer their opinion, words of advice, or instruction on how to proceed to resolve a droopy front nose on my ’72 Corvette.
I’ve owned this C3 for 27 years, and the nose was droopy when I bought it, but I think it has gotten slightly worse over the years. The car has had a replacement one piece front clip attached at some time.
Paint is in really good condition (28 Yrs). No cracks or spidering. Door gaps are good. The nose-surround starts drooping down a couple of inches before the hood hinge.
It really bothers me, but on the other hand, I don’t want to raise the nose and end up cracking the body or paint in some area.
So I’ve researched the forums going back 10 years, and the general consensus seems to be two potential solutions:
1. Remove the front bumper, loosen the horse collar and nose rod, then try to raise the nose. See how far I can adjust it if any? The comments I’ve read is that you may only be able to get 3/16” to a ¼” inch adjustment with this method. I think I may need more to really even it out, and with this method it could stress the panels (around wheel arches) and lead to cracking.
2. The other solution, is do the same as in #1 above, but you have to also separate the bond between the inner fender and the fender as well. Some people have been able to separate the bond by simply using a putty knife, and others have used a heat gun to soften the bonding material then use a putty knife. Cut-off wheel I guess is another maybe? Either way I can see potential for cracking or burning of the paint with the heat gun. Also, what seams do I separate and how far?
I’ve attached a number of exterior pics to help describe the issue. The pic with the overhead view of the hood has two pieces of green tape. They are reference points indicating where the fender starts to drop below the hood. Also, the hood is a factory hood - not a repro.
Appreciate any input. Strategies if fixable.
Regards. Thanks in advance.
Dino.
View from side
Driver side of hood at front slighter higher
Start of drop forward of tape
Passenger side
Driver side
I’ve owned this C3 for 27 years, and the nose was droopy when I bought it, but I think it has gotten slightly worse over the years. The car has had a replacement one piece front clip attached at some time.
Paint is in really good condition (28 Yrs). No cracks or spidering. Door gaps are good. The nose-surround starts drooping down a couple of inches before the hood hinge.
It really bothers me, but on the other hand, I don’t want to raise the nose and end up cracking the body or paint in some area.
So I’ve researched the forums going back 10 years, and the general consensus seems to be two potential solutions:
1. Remove the front bumper, loosen the horse collar and nose rod, then try to raise the nose. See how far I can adjust it if any? The comments I’ve read is that you may only be able to get 3/16” to a ¼” inch adjustment with this method. I think I may need more to really even it out, and with this method it could stress the panels (around wheel arches) and lead to cracking.
2. The other solution, is do the same as in #1 above, but you have to also separate the bond between the inner fender and the fender as well. Some people have been able to separate the bond by simply using a putty knife, and others have used a heat gun to soften the bonding material then use a putty knife. Cut-off wheel I guess is another maybe? Either way I can see potential for cracking or burning of the paint with the heat gun. Also, what seams do I separate and how far?
I’ve attached a number of exterior pics to help describe the issue. The pic with the overhead view of the hood has two pieces of green tape. They are reference points indicating where the fender starts to drop below the hood. Also, the hood is a factory hood - not a repro.
Appreciate any input. Strategies if fixable.
Regards. Thanks in advance.
Dino.
View from side
Driver side of hood at front slighter higher
Start of drop forward of tape
Passenger side
Driver side
#2
Race Director
QUESTIONS:
1.) Are you worried about the car still being 100% factory correct???
2.) Can you confirm if the gusset supports which are at the end of the beam that your headlight assembles are bolted so are secured to the front face of the inner skirts? (This is CRITICAL that they are there)
This is what it looks like.
3.) Has the car EVER been hit in the front where you can detect that it has been repaired???
Reason I ask..is I know how to help this out greatly....IF NOT fix it.
I would NOT do the second option you posted unless that is the last option.
DUB
1.) Are you worried about the car still being 100% factory correct???
2.) Can you confirm if the gusset supports which are at the end of the beam that your headlight assembles are bolted so are secured to the front face of the inner skirts? (This is CRITICAL that they are there)
This is what it looks like.
3.) Has the car EVER been hit in the front where you can detect that it has been repaired???
Reason I ask..is I know how to help this out greatly....IF NOT fix it.
I would NOT do the second option you posted unless that is the last option.
DUB
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
QUESTIONS:
1.) Are you worried about the car still being 100% factory correct???
2.) Can you confirm if the gusset supports which are at the end of the beam that your headlight assembles are bolted so are secured to the front face of the inner skirts? (This is CRITICAL that they are there)
This is what it looks like.
3.) Has the car EVER been hit in the front where you can detect that it has been repaired???
Reason I ask..is I know how to help this out greatly....IF NOT fix it.
I would NOT do the second option you posted unless that is the last option.
DUB
1.) Are you worried about the car still being 100% factory correct???
2.) Can you confirm if the gusset supports which are at the end of the beam that your headlight assembles are bolted so are secured to the front face of the inner skirts? (This is CRITICAL that they are there)
This is what it looks like.
3.) Has the car EVER been hit in the front where you can detect that it has been repaired???
Reason I ask..is I know how to help this out greatly....IF NOT fix it.
I would NOT do the second option you posted unless that is the last option.
DUB
Hi Dub, thanks for the reply, to answer your questions:
1) No. I am not concerned if under the hood forward of the rad the car is not 100% correct.
2) Appears to me that the gussets are attached to the inner fender skirt, but the headlight support is not sitting on the gussets on either side.
3) I can only assume the car was hit in the front at one time (before I bought it), and the reason for the one piece front end clip. Also, I spent quite a bit of time with the factory assembly manual to add or replace nut and bolts that were wrong or missing. So I would say yes.
I'll attach pics of the gussets.
Gusset driver side. Note gap between support and gusset.
Gusset driver side bolted to inner fender
Gusset pass. Bad pic. But there is a gap between support and gusset.
Pass. gusset bolted to skirt
Wheelwell driver side. Sorry for the misaligned pic, needs a 90 degree counter clockwise fix.
Wheelwell pass. side.
#4
Race Director
Thanks for answering my questions.
Your answer to question #2 is part of the problem...if not all of it.
Now..the next step...either I type this all out and try to explain it to you....OR....you PM me and I can give you my shop phone number and you can call me so we can talk and cover a lot more information much faster. It is up to you.
DUB
Your answer to question #2 is part of the problem...if not all of it.
Now..the next step...either I type this all out and try to explain it to you....OR....you PM me and I can give you my shop phone number and you can call me so we can talk and cover a lot more information much faster. It is up to you.
DUB
The following users liked this post:
Chad 71 vette (01-21-2023)
#6
Race Director
#7
Sagging nose on 71 vette
Thanks for answering my questions.
Your answer to question #2 is part of the problem...if not all of it.
Now..the next step...either I type this all out and try to explain it to you....OR....you PM me and I can give you my shop phone number and you can call me so we can talk and cover a lot more information much faster. It is up to you.
DUB
Your answer to question #2 is part of the problem...if not all of it.
Now..the next step...either I type this all out and try to explain it to you....OR....you PM me and I can give you my shop phone number and you can call me so we can talk and cover a lot more information much faster. It is up to you.
DUB
#8
Team Owner
It appears that you're new to the forum. Unfortunately, 'DUB' won't be able to reply to you, as he died, several months ago, and he's been sadly missed......