striper

I'm not sure how long this will be but bear with me, I need help. I recently installed a Kenwood DNX691KD in my car. It also has a Pyle reverse camera which was working great. I started to have the camera work intermittently. Then it totally stopped working. I figured I'd get around to checking it out at another time, since I initially had problems with the RCA cable causing the camera not to work. So I'm walking away from my car and I press my remote to lock the car and only the left reverse light flashed. The right one is where I have the camera wire tied in. I figured that my connection broke and I'd fix it later. The wire joint had come apart rendering the right side light inoperable. I reattached the connections and now I have no reverse lights at all, and no camera either. There are no fuses in the reverse light circuit, only a relay in the engine compartment fuse box. When I checked the DIC for codes I get a code for the relay, B2482 H C. I have tried two other working relays and nothing happens. I put my relay in my friend's car and his lights work. I am now baffled. What else could I have screwed up? I tried locating the ground but no luck. I am going to try grounding the lights to a new location. BTW, all other rear lights work as they should. The approach light function of all other lights also works, minus the reverse lights.

markcz

Assuming C5

Most likely problem is fuse #21 in the footwell, if not check #2 under the hood

striper

Considering that my car is a Z06 I didn't see how fuse #21 would be relevant, but I checked it anyway. It was blown however when I replaced it, it accomplished nothing. The reverse lights still didn't work. And fuse #2 is okay. Still baffled. Is it possible I broke a ground wire to the lights somewhere in the rear? When I turn on the approach light function, the license plates are illuminating, unless I was never aware they lit too.

markcz

The above diagrams and a meter are all you should need to track down the problem, but chances are it has something to do with the wire you added. I'd start by removing the camera trigger wire from the bulb wire in the back and replacing the relay and both fuses, then see what happens.

Put the car in reverse and turn the key to ON, do the lights come on? If not, is 21 blown again? If yes, you have a short, probably on the wire you added. If no, check the bulb sockets for +12vdc. If no voltage it's probably the relay (as indicated by the B2482).

If you don't have a meter you can get a simple analog multimeter at Lowes for under $15, or a slightly more complicated digital meter at Sears for $20.

striper

I tried again the same checks again. Fuse 21 is okay, I also replaced the relay with a known good one, still no lights. I put my relay in my friend's car and his lights will work. I will check for voltage again, too, which I've previously done. Had no power. I also checked fuse #2 because I read somewhere that might be relevant, it was also okay. Some of the wires back there are very thin so I'm wondering if there is a ground wire back there that I could have accidentally broken. Originally only the right side light wasn't working which is what the camera is connected to, the left side worked. When I removed the reverse light assembly to repair the wires is when I lost the left. Now when I unlock the car instead of backup lights my license plate lights come on. I never noticed if they always did that or there is a feed to them due to a broken ground.

markcz

Fuse 21 powers the lights when running and in reverse.

Fuse 2 powers the lights when you hit the fob buttons, it also pulls in the relay when the BCM grounds that circuit.

You can use your meter to check for continuity of the ground wires. With the meter on ohms, put one lead on the frame and the other on the bulb contacts in the housing. It should be less than 1 ohm.

striper

I appreciate your help, I was hoping you'd respond to my posts. I checked grounds and they are fine. For some reason I am not getting power to the lights. The fuses are good and so is the relay. I found an old post where some people mentioned the reverse switch at the trans could be a problem. What do you think? I actually don't think it is that. I feel that somewhere in the back of my car there is a broken wire but I can't figure out how to trace it. Initially only the right side light didn't work when the camera connection made my splice come apart. Then when I reconnected it, the left side was out too. As I mentioned, when I put direct power to the those lights everything worked, including the camera turned on, this with the car in reverse, key on, engine off.

striper

Since I never mentioned it, my car is a 2003 C5 Z06.

markcz

Are you sure the bulbs are good


If that was it they would still work with the fob buttons when the car is off.


Something isn't right

Use the prints and your meter. Find a good ground in the engine compartment to clamp the black lead to and follow the print to see each pin that should have power on it.

Pull the relay out, pin Q6 should have +12vdc at all times, and pin Q5 should have +12vdc if the ignition is ON.

I don't recall if the C5 fuse box has the numbers/letters labeled like the C6 box does, but the fuse box pins (the slots the fuses & relays slide in to) are arranged like a battleship board, letters along one row and numbers on the other axis. Even if they aren't labeled you can figure out what they are based on the prints, fuse 2 should give it away.

Try making a jumper and putting +12v on pin N6, do they come on?

Pin N5 should only be grounded (meter on ohms) when you hit the fob button.

Replace the relay and pull out one of the bulb connectors. Get the lights to where they should be on with the car running and poke your meter into the green wire slot, should have +12v. The black one should be <1ohm to the bumper. If you have +12 on green and an open on black I'd just cut the black wires and make a new ground.

Happy hunting

striper

Thanks for your tips. I'm hoping to work on and fix this over the weekend. From your ideas I've come up with a few things I'm going to try out. I'm convinced I broke a wire somewhere in the bumper area. If I put direct battery power to a reverse bulb connection, all lights will work including the camera. The fuses and relay are also good. The front approach lights turn on, but not the rear. I'm hoping I figure this out.

striper

When you turn on the approach lights, are the license plate lights supposed to come on? I cannot find any info to confirm or deny. Mine are coming on but no reverse lights.

striper

In addition to the code B2482H C, I am now noticing also these codes, B 0502 H C and B 0507 H C. I know they are for the DRL's but are they somehow related? I am getting nowhere diagnosing my problem. All fuses are good and I have two working relays that are doing nothing. The grounds seem okay because if I run power directly to my reverse lights at a point before all joints in the rear the lights will come on and the camera will also activate. I'm not sure what to check next, it's driving me crazy. Everything was fine until a solder joint broke where I attached the camera wires to the right side backup light. Help!

markcz

Find a friend who can read electrical prints and knows how to use a meter, it shouldn't take 30 minutes to trace the voltage from fuse to reverse bulbs.

Do the reverse lights come on with car in ON and tranny in reverse?

bartsky

What about the reverse light switch on the transmission?

striper

When I raise my car this weekend to change the trans oil I will check it, though I don't think it will be the problem. It would be great if it is.

striper

The reverse lights do not come on with the key on and the trans in reverse. I had asked if when the car's approach lights are activated do the license plate lights come on? I can't find out the answer, because mine do and I don't recall that happening before. I know how to use a meter and a test light but I just don't know where to begin. I've tried several of my own ideas but to no avail. I also have a Tech 2 and that hasn't helped. It's telling me to reprogram my BCM. I am afraid to do that because while it will read codes and do most procedures, it is only programmed up to 1999 and my car is a 2003. Also, my car has been tuned and I don't want to cause any more new problems. If possible it will happen to me, the way my luck has been running with this problem.

markcz

Car off, doors locked, pull out relay 38, meter on DC, black lead to battery (-), red lead to pin Q6, should have +12vdc, if not fuse 2 is bad. Change meter to ohms, put red lead on pin N5, should be 'open' for now, push unlock on fob, meter should go to less than 1ohm, if not BCM may be the issue. If your meter leads are too thick to get at the terminals you can rig up a straightened out paper clip to get at them.

If correct results at Q6 and N5 above, try this... With relay 38 still removed, use a meter lead with probe attached to each end (or a paper clip) and jumper pin Q6 to pin N6 (be careful with the pin locations, the print swaps rows 5/6 from top to bottom from coil to contacts but the fuse box will have them in line). Do the lights come on? If not the issue is in the wiring, probably where you were tapping in to it.

Post your results of the above

striper

I checked everything at least twice, fuses, relays, wiring, continuity, etc. I couldn't find anything wrong. I followed the diagrams sent to me by Mark. Using my Tech 2 I was finding codes but no resolution. After much frustration I decided to start over and rewire the camera and restore the wiring back to stock. There was a broken wire in the crimp connector. Some of the wiring is extremely thin and very fragile. Working slowly and carefully I put it all back together. Voila! I have working reverse lights, approach lights and a working backup camera. Thanks to everyone who helped and suggested things to try. The backup light switch is okay, too.