weight distribution hitch
#1
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
weight distribution hitch
with the trailer I am buying I need to be able to easily disconnect a weight distribution hitch from it to allow the trailer to rollback.
I am not familiar with the hitches at all, but from pictures it looks like it is connected to the A-Frame of the trailer by either a chain and a bracket or 2 arms and a bracket.
Are they easy to unhook? Sensible I would think they are since you not always have the trailer and the hitch together, but who knows...
thanks
Bob
I am not familiar with the hitches at all, but from pictures it looks like it is connected to the A-Frame of the trailer by either a chain and a bracket or 2 arms and a bracket.
Are they easy to unhook? Sensible I would think they are since you not always have the trailer and the hitch together, but who knows...
thanks
Bob
#2
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Cruise-In II Veteran
with the trailer I am buying I need to be able to easily disconnect a weight distribution hitch from it to allow the trailer to rollback.
I am not familiar with the hitches at all, but from pictures it looks like it is connected to the A-Frame of the trailer by either a chain and a bracket or 2 arms and a bracket.
Are they easy to unhook? Sensible I would think they are since you not always have the trailer and the hitch together, but who knows...
thanks
Bob
I am not familiar with the hitches at all, but from pictures it looks like it is connected to the A-Frame of the trailer by either a chain and a bracket or 2 arms and a bracket.
Are they easy to unhook? Sensible I would think they are since you not always have the trailer and the hitch together, but who knows...
thanks
Bob
#8
Team Owner
#11
Race Director
DEFINITELY get a weight distributing hitch. AND make sure you read the instructions, and set the angles properly. Most have a pretty detailed setup for getting the height and angle correct (so the chains are the right length for cornering), so please follow them. I DIDN'T the first time (back 20 years ago) and it didn't take me long to start over, and do it all right.
#12
Race Director
bob if you're down at ecs my hitch is in the trailer, and the bars are as well, go have fun playing with the setup to get familiar with it, its pretty damn simple once its there in front of ya. Or next time we're together I'll walk ya through it.......big thing is when you're attaching the bars jack the nose of the trailer up (das why my electric jack on da tongue is so cool) and it takes the tension off of the bars (or in some cases rods) then you drop the tongue and jack etc. Pretty much the bars push the ball straight up.......by taking the pressure off with the jack it makes getting them on and off a breeze vs. trying to muscle them. My trailer is 6 pin, but I have a 7-6 adapter in the cabinets inside, go have fun playin with the hitch if you're bored. At this rate teh trailer will be there for a while..
#13
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
DEFINITELY get a weight distributing hitch. AND make sure you read the instructions, and set the angles properly. Most have a pretty detailed setup for getting the height and angle correct (so the chains are the right length for cornering), so please follow them. I DIDN'T the first time (back 20 years ago) and it didn't take me long to start over, and do it all right.
#14
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Just bought mine (eaz lift). here is a web site that has a very complete PDF file to go over measurements, installation and set-up. Very helpful. The PDF file is on the left of the web page.
http://www.eaz-lift.com/swaycontrolframes.html
Just used it for the first time this last weekend going 300 miles to Pahrump. Very nice set-up and added some piece of mind knowing that I could safely have up to 1000 lbs tongue weight with the equalizing hitch set-up (vs 600lbs without)
http://www.eaz-lift.com/swaycontrolframes.html
Just used it for the first time this last weekend going 300 miles to Pahrump. Very nice set-up and added some piece of mind knowing that I could safely have up to 1000 lbs tongue weight with the equalizing hitch set-up (vs 600lbs without)
#15
Race Director
the bars/chains also act as a sway control . The natural self correction of these units add a ton of stability.
I tried carrying an enclosed trailer with a 1/2 ton Suburban back 7-8 years ago, and to get the load so that the back of the Sub wasn't litteraly on the ground, I add to remove so much tongue weight that it became dangerously unstable. Load leveler fixed me up.
BTW, since car trailer dealers are rare, relatively speaking, RV dealers are a GREAT resource at buying and setting these up
http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/WD/dt_trunnion_bar.html
**this is the one I've used most. Get the 1200lb unit. You can always leave it a bit "loose" if you don't need the full 1200lb, but overloading lighter bars could damage them.***
I tried carrying an enclosed trailer with a 1/2 ton Suburban back 7-8 years ago, and to get the load so that the back of the Sub wasn't litteraly on the ground, I add to remove so much tongue weight that it became dangerously unstable. Load leveler fixed me up.
BTW, since car trailer dealers are rare, relatively speaking, RV dealers are a GREAT resource at buying and setting these up
http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/WD/dt_trunnion_bar.html
**this is the one I've used most. Get the 1200lb unit. You can always leave it a bit "loose" if you don't need the full 1200lb, but overloading lighter bars could damage them.***
Last edited by davidfarmer; 02-01-2007 at 02:17 PM.