007Duc

Ok. So I'm preping my 02 Z06 for a couple of HPDEs. I wanted to replace the brake fluid with Motul RBF 600 for obvious reasons. Does any one have the proper procedure for this especially since the system deals with the ABS and Active Handling.

gonzalezfj

The ONLY way to do this right is using a Tech 2 to excercise the ABS circuits and get all the old fluid out of the system. Anything else you do wil just dilute the new fluid with the residue of the old trapped in the ABS circuits.

Don't listento people that say all you have to do is brake hard a couple of times to get the ABS engaged. That just dilutes your good new fluid with the old.

If it's worth it to you to flush the system, get it doneright the first time.

Frank Gonzalez

Last C5

Buy a Motive pressure bleeder, pump it up to 13 lbs, and flush away. Incidently, someone on the forum told me you don't even have to fill the Motive tank with fluid, just turkey baster out the old stuff and refill the reservoir with new stuff, attach the Motive and bleed. He was right, works like a charm. For an 02 your bleed sequence is RR,LF,LR,RF. Don't forget to top off the reservoir when you're done.

pit-pony

Sequence should be, wheel furthest (in terms of brake line length) from the Master first to the closest last.

..jack

Lancer033

w/ Last C5

yes, it's better to use Tech 2 to get the fluid out of the ABS system, but it won't make much difference for us.

wtknght1

I just get a turkey baster, suck out the old stuff, and fill the reservoir with the new fluid. Then I start at the RR, open the bleed screw and let all the old stuff drain out (until it's completely clear)...and work my around to the other calipers. If you want to speed the process a bit, you can remove the brake line from the caliper which will let all the old caliper fluid drain out.

It's not the most scientific method (or the fastest), but it's worked fine for me over the years.

Lancer033

97-00: RR, LR, RF, LF
01-04: RR, LF, LR, RF

007Duc

Thanks everyone. This has been most helpful. Who'd of thought that the second longest brake line was the LF. The car is pretty much stock, just longtube headers and a hurst shifter and air filter. I plan on running Hawk HP Plus pads and the PS2s as it is my daily driver. I've got 5 point harnesses in it with a BK harness bar. Oh yeah, SS brake lines as well. I've heard all the talk about just buying a supply of autoparts store rotors but I was considering using StopTech aero rotors to try and keep the brakes cooler and lighter to boot. I know that they're expensive and the rotors are a consumable item, but I was hoping that the StopTechs would last longer and since I'll probably only make 2 or 3 HPDEs a year would I really be eating the rotors that bad. are the StopTechs thicker then shelf rotors? I know I will not be the most competitive driver out there, but I do have lots of track time at my local track MSR only on two wheels though. So I do plan on driving the car aggressivelly. Any other advise you guys would suggest? Thanks soo much.

AU N EGL

I stopped useing the turkey baster and use a 50 cc syringe used to mix gas & Oil for a two cycle engine. Just put 6" of clear tygon tubing on the end and keep a bottle close to put the used brake fluid in.

wtknght1

The LF is NOT the 2d longest brake line. From my experience it doesn't really matter what order you go in to bleed them. Just make sure you get them all and you'll be fine.

Don't waste your money on the expensive rotors (cheese-grater or otherwise). If you're only doing 2 or 3 DE events, you'll probably just have to replace the stock rotors once...maybe twice a year at the most. I can replace all the rotors and pads on my car in about an hour - too easy.

007Duc

Was planning on the slotted not drilled. And the only reason I was considering them is that I have overheated my stock rotors just driving on the street. One stop from triple digit speeds and there done. Yes I know I shouldn't be driving that fast but let's not go there. BTW, what does it matter how fast you can change out rotors and pads?
Please don't take any offence to that, but I know they are easy to change.

wtknght1

WHAT?!?!?! "One stop from triple digit speeds and they're done" ????? I've been racing on those rotors for 9 years...and we stop from triple digit speeds every lap...and they are just fine.

You can get the slotted if you want...but you'll just wear out your pads faster and the rotors will most likely crack faster. Save your money.

I just mentioned the change out speed if you were concerned about the time and effort it takes to do that.

007Duc

All I can say is that I made a aggressive deceleration from 140 to about 40 mph went to pull into a parking lot and damn near didn't get the car stopped pulling into a parking slot. Note, pedal was firm, just no stoppie. I realize your racing often and obviously not experiencing the what happened to me. Sorry, I was in the driver's seat when this happened. Just trying to make sure it doesn't happen at the track in the second turn after a long straight.

wtknght1

Well I don't know what happened to you there, but the Z06 was designed to stop from incredible speeds...over and over again with no real issues. People bring bone stock Z06s to the track all the time and have no issues at all.

In T1, we have to use stock calipers, rotors, etc. I have racing pads on there, but the stock Z06 pads are pretty damn good especially just for the occasional DE event. Just make sure it's got fresh fluid in there and you'll be just fine.

Westwopper

Just a thought... I've never been a fan of a 5pt on stock seats...I'm not sure why this is such a popular mod. In my humble opinion, I would get a 2 by 2 piece of draw liner (like for your tool box) and put that on the seat. Then pull your factory seat belt out all the way and let it crank back. Then move your seat forward a bit and you will be nice and tight in the stock belts. Save the 5pt (should get a 6pt set up for ease of mounting till you get a race seat). See my other posts for pictures.

I run stock rotors on my car as well. Mine lasted 2 days on street tires and 4 on slicks with out brake ducts. For $24 each, best deal in town.

For what ever reason, it sounds like you "gassed" your pads... It does not sound like a rotor issue. For your first drivers ed, you will not be pushing the car that hard. I would give the stock or Napa / Rockauto rotors a try.

Your pad choice seems ok. I'm not sure you want to go much more aggressive on pads with street tires or you will have your ABS doing a lot of work.

Just remember with your street rubber: a singing tire is a happy tire.... a screaming tire will look a bit rough when you go to drive home. Have a good time!

Lancer033

that sounds more like pad fade than anything else. Rotors problems would be lead to a pulsing pedal from pad material build up which can be cleaned off or cracks which mean the rotors have to be replaced. Can I assume you were using low-dust, ceramic pads when thes happened?


There have been a few threads on harnesses reciently which I would highly recomend you reading, expecially since you mention using a 5-point belt w/ a stock seat, specifically http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1617305