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Old 03-09-2007, 11:45 AM
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fatbillybob
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Default Big Brake conversions

Hi guys,

For those of you who have done big front brake conversions especially you who track your car, did you notice a real positive difference?
Old 03-09-2007, 12:00 PM
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John Shiels
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Yes they feel the same as they did in the first hard lap. Stock calipers ones taper pads and clam shell. I have much more confidence I will be able to stop when I see the walls and barriers coming at high speeds. I have the Wilwoods from LGM so the pads last longer and save you money.

Do I stop faster than a cool temp new stock caliper with the same compound? May be but not much. It is the consistency and feel which gives you confidence late into a session where stock calipers drop off.

I use to be of the thought well I am stopping who needs BBK. After having them they are worth a bunch vs HP. I would have done them sooner than HP but didn't know any better until I tried them.
Old 03-09-2007, 12:06 PM
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63Corvette
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Hi guys,

For those of you who have done big front brake conversions especially you who track your car, did you notice a real positive difference?
Old 03-09-2007, 01:05 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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The stock PBR calipers are ok for a rookie driver. But once you really start pushing them hard they just don't hold up. They start to flex, overheat, pistons get sticky, dust boot , rotors you start replacing everyday, pad taper ruins your racing budjet. Ok I think that sentance got long but you get the point.

Randy
FYI stock front brakes make good rear brakes
Old 03-09-2007, 01:51 PM
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fatbillybob
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Gentlemen,

Thank You. Can you guys talk about what qualities you look for in a new big front brake assuming you do randy's method of moving OE front to the rear and then do a new front big brake. Is any big brake better or are their certain qualities that you need to look for. I'm a sprint race club racer with races no longer than 30 mins on a 2.5 mile track. For example if one makers floating rotors are made of harder steels then you can use more agressive pad compounds and still get decent life. Some makers may fool you with aluminum hats but not use true "floating" rotors. I assume you need 18" front wheels.
Old 03-09-2007, 02:00 PM
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John Shiels
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As Randy said before true floating rotors get dirt trapped and are not good for the street. You also need to say to yourself how much do I want to spend? How much is rotor replacement if it two piece. How much aare repalce pads and parts?
Old 03-09-2007, 02:52 PM
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AU N EGL
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The only other BBKs that I have really really pushed hard were Brembo's on several differnt P cars. My PBRs worked far better and I could underbrake any of these P-cars with the Big Red BBKs. even with race pads on race rubber.
Old 03-09-2007, 02:57 PM
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John Shiels
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PBR's work you just get taper in both directions severly, hotter brake fluid, and ton of knock back with tapered pads and mushy pedal as they are heated the weaken.
Old 03-09-2007, 03:09 PM
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AU N EGL
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Originally Posted by John Shiels
PBR's work you just get taper in both directions severly, hotter brake fluid, and ton of knock back with tapered pads and mushy pedal as they are heated the weaken.
Well I have gone though a set of calipes each year too.
Old 03-09-2007, 03:48 PM
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davidfarmer
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I've run Brembo kits, and Stoptech kits, and you REALLY want a kit engineered for your car, like Stoptech. They are the only company I know that custom size (piston size that is) each application. I put a Brembo kit on a car once, and it totally screwed up the bias. This is true of most "off the shelf" conversions.

Big brakes, generally, will not stop you quicker the FIRST time. However, they will stop you quicker as the sessions go on. Pretty much any brake system can lock the tires, and that is pretty much the limit. Also, remember, the more you stop, the more heat you generate, so propper cooling is absolutely essential to any serious braking application.
Old 03-09-2007, 04:41 PM
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Default Brake Bias

I have calculated some ratios from brake disc diameter, pad size and piston diameters for different brake setups. Rim and tire sizes are not included in the calculation.

Front:Rear
C6Z51 1.8:1
Brembo GT Kit 2.0:1
Movit BBK 2.5:1
Stoptech BBK undisclosed

Can anyone comment on brake bias for a C6? Lowered, Kumho or Michelin Cup tires on 11x18/13x18, track use.

Does anyone have data for the C6Z06? Piston sizes, brake pad width?
Thanks,
Bernd
Old 03-09-2007, 04:43 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
Gentlemen,

Thank You. Can you guys talk about what qualities you look for in a new big front brake assuming you do randy's method of moving OE front to the rear and then do a new front big brake. Is any big brake better or are their certain qualities that you need to look for. I'm a sprint race club racer with races no longer than 30 mins on a 2.5 mile track. For example if one makers floating rotors are made of harder steels then you can use more agressive pad compounds and still get decent life. Some makers may fool you with aluminum hats but not use true "floating" rotors. I assume you need 18" front wheels.
Ok,
Here is what 90 percent of my customers run. I think it's the best bang for the buck setup out there.
Our AP front brake package uses a 14 inch rotor, so 18 inch wheels are a must. We will talk about floating or solid rotors in a minute. Then run the stock front calipers in the rear of the car. The only problem with having the stock fronts on the rear is you will lose your parking brake. SO you have all the brakes on the car, will you have a good brake pedal??? No not without the DRM master that makes this system works great!!! If you have the extra money you can buy our rear package also, comes with a steel parking brake drum also

Floating rotors are for cars that track over 90 percent of the time!!!
Solid rotors are great for street and still very good for track cars.

The problem with floating rotors is something has to give. I know there is a engineer term for when this happens. You have three things moving around in a floating setup.
1.rotor
2. hardware(many different setups)
3. the hat to hardware.
Now drive 10,000 miles in a straight line without using the brakes, with the rotor floating around. I don't care what the brake companies say something has to give. On the track were brake rotors and hardware get thrown away all the time the down fall of floaters don't matter, and the pros out weigh the cons.

Fixed two peice have some benfits too, cooler on the wheel bearing, less cost when replacing, lighter weight and fun stuff like that.

Randy
PS same setup has been on the pole for WC races before
Old 03-09-2007, 04:58 PM
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freefall
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I remember looking over Leighton Reese's car when the Rolex Sports Car Series stopped at VIR - he had the AP's front and stock front calipers in back.

Randy - what kind of ratio are you setting with that setup?
Old 03-09-2007, 05:42 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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Yes he was running the same setup that we sell. But he had trick master setup.

Randy
PS to be honest I have no idea what the ratio we run. I know we run more rear brake then most, because no body takes tranny-diff rotating mass into account
Old 03-09-2007, 05:43 PM
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AU N EGL
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Which AP caliper? there are lots of model numbers.

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