sothpaw2

Hi,

I looked in the archives and such and did not find any write-ups on changing your brake pads or changing your fluid under the C5.

I don't have a manual yet( need to order) and would like to change the pads at least for an auto-x this weekend.

Is there any write-up on the forum with pictures to show how the pads are retained on the C5 and what the flush procedure is (which wheel first, etc)?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Andy

yakisoba

not alot of hard parts to this. I think to fully purge the system and flush, you need a tech 2 tool that most of us don't have. In order to bleed at the wheels, you need a bleeder or a friend to work the pedal, just like a normal car. I've seen it done without pulling the wheels, but you'd need a lift for that.

Pads can be done by removing one bolt from the top of the caliper, laying it back off the disk and removing the pads. Then the pistons are compressed back into the calipers, new pads are inserted, and the caliper is rocked back onto the disk. Take the wheel off, look at the bolts, and you'll see what you need to do. Unless you want to change the rotors, don't mess with the bigger bolts that hold the bracket on.

Aardwolf

Before you take it apart, note the location of the parts. Take a picture if you need to. The pads go a certain way as does the clip. I just got C5 calipers for mine, so I don't know what the large clip is called. It seems to hold the pads and goes a certain way to. I highly recomend the speedbleeders.

UstaB-GS549

Rears first.
Remove as much brake fluid from MC as possible with turkey baster.
Push pads/pistons back all the way & remove more brake fluid from MC. I use a heel bar for this, but some people use a c-clamp (slower). Sometimes you can just pull on caliper and pistons will slide back in.
Top off MC with fresh fluid.
15mm wrench on top caliper bolt. Sometimes another wrench on two flats on caliper pin to get bolt out after breaking loose.
Hinge caliper out of way. Move hose around duct to do this.
Old pads out. New pads in. Tighten small bolt with box wrench. Use Loctite if you are squeamish. I never have.
Promise friend beer. He pumps pedal you work bleed screws.
10mm on bleed screw with clear hose running uphill and back down into container. Bleed both rears until fluid is clear and no bubbles. There is a preferred sequence, but I never have used it.

Fronts are pretty much the same except the flats on caliper pins are different size.

The pedal should be solid when you are done. If not go back and re-bleed.

Technically you will not get 100% fresh fluid in system without Tech II. I never have used one and end up with a solid pedal. YMMV.

VetteDrmr

Technically you are correct, but there is a way to exercise the fluid in the ABS. Once you flush/bleed the system, take it out to a safe spot of road and get on the brakes hard enough to engage the ABS. Do that 2 or 3 times and you will have cycled the fluid in the ABS actuator a decent amount.

I've flushed/bled several systems several times, and have never had to resort to a Tech 2.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

sothpaw2

Thanks,

Anyone know the correct sequence? Any pics of the C5 caliper--I always feel better knowing which bolts to pull before pulling the wheel and looking. I use the instructions with IKEA furniture too.

Aardwolf

Your suppose to start farthest from the M/C but I don't find this to be critical. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front, done.

Pictures I don't have but when you look at the caliper don't remove the large bolts holding the bracket on. There is a smaller bolt that lets the caliper rotate off the rotor.

Phil Smith

The sequence per shop manual for 2004 C5 is RR,LF,LR,RF. I usually do rears first then RF, LF. Pump pedal several times when finished with brakes and fluid. Makes it easier to stop when you first back out of the garage. Don't ask me how I know that.

Phil

MungoZ06

Send me a PM with your email address. I've got a word doc with pics that I copied from a DIY post some years back.

Swiftwater Z06

I would appreciate if you could send that doc to me as well.
Thanks, Greg

MungoZ06

didn't hear from Southpaw2 but sent you the doc via email.
FWIW ... change pads in whatever sequence works for you ... have the bleeder valve open when you compress the pads ... that will help to get old, dirty fluid out of the lines instead of pushing back up in the lines ...
After you get all the pads changed, go around and bleed in sequence ... RR, LF, LR, RF.

AU N EGL

I always put my car on 4 jack stands to bleed the brakes.

ALL the wheels off at the same time. Easy to get to all four calipers quickly.