Steel brakelines or rubber for occassional track days
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Steel brakelines or rubber for occassional track days
I bought a set of braided steel brake lines for my mostly stock 91' coupe. I plan on 3-4 track days/year and occasional autocross. Now I am wondering do I need the steel lines. Someone posted previously that the braided steel lines can eventually get pinholes from dirt and to stay with rubber brakelines. Need advice.
Thanks,
Vince
Thanks,
Vince
Last edited by VinceAD; 05-04-2008 at 10:56 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2003
Location: Los Gatos CA
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I like the feel of them better than stockers, and had the same concern as you...which is why I ordered the stoptech's - they have a teflon sleeve outside the braid, hence no dirt to worry about.
#4
Drifting
Steel. Why on earth not? The only reason I can think of is that braided stainless lines need to be checked so they don't rub on anything in the suspension. Other than that, they are a great but subtle addition to the car.
#5
Race Director
I like the feel of the braided line as well. I thought of wrapping the line but then wondered if that would hold in moisture and lower the boiling point of the fluid through condensation. If the braided has to be replaced more often that is worth it to me for better pedal feel. Lots of guys do this as a looks mod and I don't ever remember reading posts about the lines doing poorly. Rubber is more forgiving to bending while working on the brakes.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. Durability first and pedal feel second is my objective. It sounds like I will get the pedal feel with the braided steel lines, still not sure on durability over the rubber. Worse case I just replace them if I see a leak .
#7
Melting Slicks
For around 100 bucks a set even if they go bad (how long? 5 years or more?) the pedal feel is worth it.
Just be sure to get a good set. There are some very cheap (construction, not price) sets out there.
Just be sure to get a good set. There are some very cheap (construction, not price) sets out there.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
I bought the Russell's before I did any research on the Forum. Everything I have read said they are not that good. I'll try them for a while, if anything I'm out only a $100 bucks.
On the install, I have never replaced brake lines. I am assuming to start with the passenger rear first like when you are bleeding.
On the install, I have never replaced brake lines. I am assuming to start with the passenger rear first like when you are bleeding.
#10
I had Russells and later switched to Goodridge.
In 2007 I had alot of problems with my 2000 due to an intermittant ABS failure. I would get a "service ABS" message on the DIC, indicating that the RF ABS sensor was not working. As a result the ABS system would shut off. AT a high speed autox I flat spotted a set of tires($1200). I replaced both frt wheel bearings, cleaned all grounds in engine compartment, replaced some plug-in style connectors, and by-passed the wiring harness to the ABS unit, and had aan OBD done by the local dealership. Cost another $1100.
I replaced the Russells(that had aluminum washers) with OEM lines...WITH COPPER WASHERS! No ABS light. ThenReplaced the OEM with Goodridges, again used copper washers. I have not seen an ABS failure light since last Novemeber.
A copper washer costs about a $1! PRICELESS!
In 2007 I had alot of problems with my 2000 due to an intermittant ABS failure. I would get a "service ABS" message on the DIC, indicating that the RF ABS sensor was not working. As a result the ABS system would shut off. AT a high speed autox I flat spotted a set of tires($1200). I replaced both frt wheel bearings, cleaned all grounds in engine compartment, replaced some plug-in style connectors, and by-passed the wiring harness to the ABS unit, and had aan OBD done by the local dealership. Cost another $1100.
I replaced the Russells(that had aluminum washers) with OEM lines...WITH COPPER WASHERS! No ABS light. ThenReplaced the OEM with Goodridges, again used copper washers. I have not seen an ABS failure light since last Novemeber.
A copper washer costs about a $1! PRICELESS!
#11
Le Mans Master
I have Goodridge on the front of the FRC - did it when I put on new calipers last year. I still have the rears waiting for rear caliper replacement at some point in the future.
I have installed full sets on other cars.
I absolutely cannot feel any pedal difference from stock. But my foot my not be sensitive enough. In a C5 pad taper dominates after the first track day anyway.
I have installed full sets on other cars.
I absolutely cannot feel any pedal difference from stock. But my foot my not be sensitive enough. In a C5 pad taper dominates after the first track day anyway.
#12
I guess it's possible for some cheaper SS lines to cause problems but:
I have SS lines on a race car that are 15 years old and I'm not planning to change them anytime soon.
And I've never heard anyone in the pits complaining about problems with SS lines.
I have SS lines on a race car that are 15 years old and I'm not planning to change them anytime soon.
And I've never heard anyone in the pits complaining about problems with SS lines.
#13
Safety Car
My Goodridges go on next week. My rear brake line had a nick in it, so I thought it would be a good time to upgrade seeing I track the car. Just curious if they should be wrapped to prevent dirt from getting in between the bands? If so, with what?
#14
Le Mans Master
I replace the stock lines with SS when they need it on my cars. But I do not do replace for the sake of the benefit of SS over the stock if the stock are in good shape.
I do not wrap the SS lines with anything.
I do not wrap the SS lines with anything.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the input. I've decided to stick with the stock lines for now and just put on the new pads and rotors (and flush fluid).
By mistake I bought 13" rotors for the front instead of 12". If anyone needs them for their C4 I'll sell for what I paid for them from Corvette Recycling (Forum vendor). $40 for both plus $25 to ship unless shipping comes out to more than $25 but I doubt.
Just PM me.
Thanks,
Vince
By mistake I bought 13" rotors for the front instead of 12". If anyone needs them for their C4 I'll sell for what I paid for them from Corvette Recycling (Forum vendor). $40 for both plus $25 to ship unless shipping comes out to more than $25 but I doubt.
Just PM me.
Thanks,
Vince