meldog21

After lots of little upgrades that never worked I finally have brakes that do. On my dear departed C5 Z06 I had gone through: Carbotech 10's/8's, DRM duct extensions, Phoenix spindle mounts, braided steel lines, LG spindle mounts, and Carbotech 12's/10's. I cracked a lot of rotors and never had consistent dependable brakes. Low pedal, inconsistent pedal, faded no stopping pedal, everything you don't want, I had it.

That car met an untimely demise when it lost an argument with a cement barrier wall at the track. The "new" C5 Z06 replacement car came with Baer's standard Corvette street rotors(drilled/slotted 13"F, 14"R). I knew that I wanted brakes that worked and that the Baer rotors with stock calipers weren't going to cut it. I broke down and forked over $3,000 or so for Stoptech ST40 fronts with 14" rotors, DTC 70's, and LG 4" spindle mounts. I run the rear 18x10.5's all around so fitment was not an issue.

On one of the forums I found a good deal on some new Pagid yellow race pads, a used set of the same, and titanium backing plates. So with the new set up, after a year recovery time I headed back to the track for the weekend hoping to have a package that worked. Instead of installing new pads I figured I'd use up the old ones first. I ended up with: The half used Pagid pads with backing plates on the Stoptech rotor/caliper up front and a set of half used Carbotech 10's with stock calipers on 14" Baer rotors out back.

I did both days last weekend at Thunderhill and the brakes worked great every session. Finally brakes that work!!!!!

I did burn through the pads and changed the color of the Stoptech calipers, but they work with no issues. The back pads on the right side went to the metal, and they still worked. No complaints.

I switched back to my ceramic pads for the street. Here are some photos of the brakes from the track:

http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...kday%20brakes/

Any input or suggestions would be great. Except for advice about changing pads before you hit metal. I know that and will be more careful next time.

Dog

63Corvette

Great story. Now that you have brakes you like, please call Anthony at LGM and buy one of his sets of used Cobalt brake pads for $100!!! You'll be amazed!

I run Stoptech ST60 front and ST40 rear with 14" rotors. These cobalt pads are fantastic, and at $100, dirt cheap too.

oldmansan

I'm probably going to get titanium backing plates for aggressive pads. I haven't heard a lot as to whether the plates are very effective.

I picked up a 4-wheel new Stoptech BBK for $3300 shipped. ST-40s all around with 14" two-piece rotors as well. I also picked up the Quantum Motorsports brake ducts and I have a bottle of Castrol SRF. I think the closest paint match for the Stoptech red brakes is Viper red (or so I've read). I haven't installed mine yet but am eager to try them out.

San

sperkins

I hear nothing but horror stories about using drilled and slotted rotors on the track. What's the difference with these that makes them so good?

oldmansan

I wouldn's use drilled even on the street. I've run slotted on the street and track with zero issues. Slots are to help with pads "gassing" and more even and consistent pad wear.

San

meldog21

Drilled rotors aren't good. I called Baer a while ago and they told me the street rotors were not suitable for high speed track work. I took the cheap route and hoped they would work well enough combined with good brakes in the front. The Baer rotors are made from quality steel, unlike stock and stock replacements, I just need to buy the non-street version without holes. Baer does make full on race calipers and rotors but those are different than the ones you see on the street. They did pretty damn good considering I ran the rear pads down to nothing and they barely cracked.

I will be calling Baer and Stoptech this week to check my options for new rear rotors.

Thanks to Baer for their rear street rotors holding up better than they thought. A huge thanks to Stoptech for front brakes that worked flawlessly all weekend.

Dog

meldog21

If I had the money I would have gone with the complete Stoptech package like you did. I'm sure your brakes work consistently every time.

I'd like to take advantage of LG's pad deal but I'm good on pads for a while. Now that I burned up my supply of used pads I still have: New front DTC 70's, new front Pagid yellow's, new rear HT10's, and new rear Hawk 9012's. Those should last for a while.

I'm also good on rear tires with at least another day or few left on my rears and a new pair in the shed. All I need is new fronts. Anyone have a line on some new 285/30x18 710's? Being ready for the track just makes you feel good.

Dog

trackboss

I have the same front brakes, but I installed the titanium backing plates at the same time as the brakes. Don't want to screw around with ducts and all that on my street car. I initially used the DTC 70's. I just ran the pfc 01's for the first time (on this car, I have always used them on the race cars I've driven) and couldn't be happier. Still had the hawks in the rear. They (pfc's) don't bite as hard initially as the hawks which I like. The hawks had way too initial bite. Also the more heat the better with the pfc's. They just never faded and kept stopping harder as they got used more. Wear seemed to be very minimal. Hawks wore extremely fast. Michael from motorsport brake specialists was there and listened to feedback as well as gave me advice. He definately knows his brake pads and I highly recommend him.
In the rear I personally hate the stock slide calipers. They work ok, but pad changes suck and they spread noticably. I plan on installing some of hardbars custom rotors with probably a wilwood 4 piston.

meldog21

I talked with both Stoptech and Baer today. The consensus was that I should replace my rear rings with Baer non-drilled rotors. Stoptech does not offer a rear rotor only option. Ideally a four wheel set up would be best, but since my package is working it's ok for now. After discussions with both companies I ordered the new rear rings from Baer(just under $500). I'll continue to run the cracked rotors on the street and put on the new rear rings before the next trackday.

Dog

gkmccready

I'd be scared of the cracked rotor. If it lets go who knows what'll happen, but you can pretty much guarantee it won't be good... you can swing by my place if you want a loaner set of NAPA rears...

trackboss

FWIW, I have stock replacement DBA rear rotors and they seem to hold up well. They are heavier than factory so there is more material there. They do have stress cracks, but so far nothing more. Price is not bad either.

meldog21

Thanks for the offer and advice Glen. If you look at my pictures you can see they're barely cracked. The surface is still flat. On the street I don't think they'll get hot enough to get any worse especially running ceramic pads. I'll keep an eye on them though and if they get worse I'll give you a call. After your advice and rethinking this, I will change to the new rotors as soon as they arrive. The rotors don't really wear on the street anyway so I might as well put the new (and safer) ones on. It's not like I'd be saving anything by waiting.

Dog

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Your darn right those Cobalts work!