Oil filter for track use?
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Oil filter for track use?
I searched a bunch of threads & BITOG & ZR1 net but there are a few new filters out so that info is getting dated.
I have been using GM PF46 with no issues but they don't make them any more. Maybe I can find NOS on ebay or whatever.
The replacement GM PF46e has a lot of seepage and yes I know how to put it on, been doing spin on filters for decades.
What are you guys using & what do you think of NAPA/Wix silver & gold. I have seen it get good reviews & it's fair priced.
Thanks.
I have been using GM PF46 with no issues but they don't make them any more. Maybe I can find NOS on ebay or whatever.
The replacement GM PF46e has a lot of seepage and yes I know how to put it on, been doing spin on filters for decades.
What are you guys using & what do you think of NAPA/Wix silver & gold. I have seen it get good reviews & it's fair priced.
Thanks.
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
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I searched a bunch of threads & BITOG & ZR1 net but there are a few new filters out so that info is getting dated.
I have been using GM PF46 with no issues but they don't make them any more. Maybe I can find NOS on ebay or whatever.
The replacement GM PF46e has a lot of seepage and yes I know how to put it on, been doing spin on filters for decades.
What are you guys using & what do you think of NAPA/Wix silver & gold. I have seen it get good reviews & it's fair priced.
Thanks.
I have been using GM PF46 with no issues but they don't make them any more. Maybe I can find NOS on ebay or whatever.
The replacement GM PF46e has a lot of seepage and yes I know how to put it on, been doing spin on filters for decades.
What are you guys using & what do you think of NAPA/Wix silver & gold. I have seen it get good reviews & it's fair priced.
Thanks.
Last edited by rustyguns; 12-10-2010 at 11:15 AM.
#7
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One thing I might add, if you are using a regular disposable filter it is important to get one with the silicone (orangish color) anti-flow back flapper valve if filter is not mounted vertically. The nitrile (black) rubber tends to distort with heat/time and not seal as well.
#10
Drifting
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I use NAPA Gold now. They are supposed to be the same as Wix an pretty good. I think PureOne is the other good one.
I have been doing some serious research into oil filters.
It is scary how "bad" standard filters are
Filters with paper elements are junk for track use. They break down and clog up due to temperature and higher constant pressures. Also they don't filter much below 75 -100 microns.
You never know they breakdown/collapse because the oil is all flowing through the bypass which = NO Filtering.
K&N's are supposed to be a joke.
I have been looking into remote mount filters like what NASCAR and other professional race series engines use. They aren't that expensive and the difference in oil life and reduction in engine wear are fantastic.
According to testers/research etc. you can triple your oil life and still have better protection and less engine wear just by using a good filter that can filter between 15 - 25 microns and not open the bypass. That is another thing to be careful of, a filter might capture the smaller particles but not have enough flow and then operate in bypass most of the time.
The ultimate is to use a dual filter setup, one filter does full volume with a 30 micron filter and then the other does about 10% of the volume with a 5 micron filter.
I have been doing some serious research into oil filters.
It is scary how "bad" standard filters are
Filters with paper elements are junk for track use. They break down and clog up due to temperature and higher constant pressures. Also they don't filter much below 75 -100 microns.
You never know they breakdown/collapse because the oil is all flowing through the bypass which = NO Filtering.
K&N's are supposed to be a joke.
I have been looking into remote mount filters like what NASCAR and other professional race series engines use. They aren't that expensive and the difference in oil life and reduction in engine wear are fantastic.
According to testers/research etc. you can triple your oil life and still have better protection and less engine wear just by using a good filter that can filter between 15 - 25 microns and not open the bypass. That is another thing to be careful of, a filter might capture the smaller particles but not have enough flow and then operate in bypass most of the time.
The ultimate is to use a dual filter setup, one filter does full volume with a 30 micron filter and then the other does about 10% of the volume with a 5 micron filter.
#12
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Phoenix Arizona
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I use NAPA Gold now. They are supposed to be the same as Wix an pretty good. I think PureOne is the other good one.
I have been doing some serious research into oil filters.
It is scary how "bad" standard filters are
Filters with paper elements are junk for track use. They break down and clog up due to temperature and higher constant pressures. Also they don't filter much below 75 -100 microns.
You never know they breakdown/collapse because the oil is all flowing through the bypass which = NO Filtering.
K&N's are supposed to be a joke.
I have been looking into remote mount filters like what NASCAR and other professional race series engines use. They aren't that expensive and the difference in oil life and reduction in engine wear are fantastic.
According to testers/research etc. you can triple your oil life and still have better protection and less engine wear just by using a good filter that can filter between 15 - 25 microns and not open the bypass. That is another thing to be careful of, a filter might capture the smaller particles but not have enough flow and then operate in bypass most of the time.
The ultimate is to use a dual filter setup, one filter does full volume with a 30 micron filter and then the other does about 10% of the volume with a 5 micron filter.
I have been doing some serious research into oil filters.
It is scary how "bad" standard filters are
Filters with paper elements are junk for track use. They break down and clog up due to temperature and higher constant pressures. Also they don't filter much below 75 -100 microns.
You never know they breakdown/collapse because the oil is all flowing through the bypass which = NO Filtering.
K&N's are supposed to be a joke.
I have been looking into remote mount filters like what NASCAR and other professional race series engines use. They aren't that expensive and the difference in oil life and reduction in engine wear are fantastic.
According to testers/research etc. you can triple your oil life and still have better protection and less engine wear just by using a good filter that can filter between 15 - 25 microns and not open the bypass. That is another thing to be careful of, a filter might capture the smaller particles but not have enough flow and then operate in bypass most of the time.
The ultimate is to use a dual filter setup, one filter does full volume with a 30 micron filter and then the other does about 10% of the volume with a 5 micron filter.
The ultimate is to use a dual filter setup, one filter does full volume with a 30 micron filter and then the other does about 10% of the volume with a 5 micron filter.[/QUOTE]
A LOT OF DIESEL GUYS DO THIS
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
Is there test data for the flow difference between napa silver vs gold?
My (cold/70 deg f) oil pressure (5w-30 Redline) is as high as 66 psi if I goose it a litttle 3500 rpm, idle is low 40's.
I don't have any data on track pressures.
Good info guys, keep it coming.
I'd like to stick with stock location & filter type for now.
My (cold/70 deg f) oil pressure (5w-30 Redline) is as high as 66 psi if I goose it a litttle 3500 rpm, idle is low 40's.
I don't have any data on track pressures.
Good info guys, keep it coming.
I'd like to stick with stock location & filter type for now.
#14
Drifting
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If that's the case look at these filters:
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...&category=2501
http://cantonracingproducts.com/Tech...lter_Tech.html
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...&category=2501
http://cantonracingproducts.com/Tech...lter_Tech.html
#15
Burning Brakes
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I found this page a while back thought it was a good read.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
I have used K&N, Napa, and Amsoil with no trouble. I like the K&N because it has a nut welded on the bottom to help removing it.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
I have used K&N, Napa, and Amsoil with no trouble. I like the K&N because it has a nut welded on the bottom to help removing it.
#17
I would stay away from the mobil 1 filters. The steel case is ultra thin and it won't take much to puncture it. I have always used napa or wix, but don't have any real data to suggest they filter better.
Keep in mind that if you use an accusump you need to use a filter with an anti-drainback valve.
Keep in mind that if you use an accusump you need to use a filter with an anti-drainback valve.
#18
Burning Brakes
#19
Team Owner
Fram is pure junk and has proven it in many tests. Many failed diesel truck engines, kaBOOM. If you think NAPA, Mobil 1, or Royal Purple makes filters they don't.
Wix is an excellent filter company like Baldwin. Wix my be NAPA's supplier I am not 100% sure but 95%. They are used by countless truck fleets and heavy equipment owners and OEM manufacturers.
If you want to know how your filter works get you oil tested. You would be surprised at the results. Cut a GM filter in half new and cut a Fram and you will see the difference.
NAPA oil is Valvoline it even has the same part numbers.
No clue why you all spend bundles on the car and then skip the science of oil analyzes that tells you how all your filters and oil are doing. I am going 12.000 on my Dodge Cummins with regular Valvoline 15/40 and 5,000 on my Excursion due to fuel in the oil. Test TEST TEST! It also tells you how your engine is wearing in a test. all for less than 35 bucks.
Many of the companies listed above even most just buy the filter and don't make them.If you make filters and put your name on them like Wix / Baldwin you know they will be good.
Wix is an excellent filter company like Baldwin. Wix my be NAPA's supplier I am not 100% sure but 95%. They are used by countless truck fleets and heavy equipment owners and OEM manufacturers.
If you want to know how your filter works get you oil tested. You would be surprised at the results. Cut a GM filter in half new and cut a Fram and you will see the difference.
NAPA oil is Valvoline it even has the same part numbers.
No clue why you all spend bundles on the car and then skip the science of oil analyzes that tells you how all your filters and oil are doing. I am going 12.000 on my Dodge Cummins with regular Valvoline 15/40 and 5,000 on my Excursion due to fuel in the oil. Test TEST TEST! It also tells you how your engine is wearing in a test. all for less than 35 bucks.
Many of the companies listed above even most just buy the filter and don't make them.If you make filters and put your name on them like Wix / Baldwin you know they will be good.
Last edited by John Shiels; 12-11-2010 at 05:01 AM.
#20
If that's the case look at these filters:
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...&category=2501
http://cantonracingproducts.com/Tech...lter_Tech.html
http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...&category=2501
http://cantonracingproducts.com/Tech...lter_Tech.html
If one is using an aftermarket oil cooler and showing sizes of low oil pressure on start-up after long periods of sitting but regular oil pressue under daily start/stops, what happens to oil pressure when you split off yet another block and use a dual remote filter set-up too?