froggy47

I was surprised to find some play in my 04 40k mile car when I did my last alignment.

Street vs. autox/track use about 50/50.

It's definitely the rod end as I could wiggle the wheel & see it plain as day and feel it.

Easy to fix, but I was wondering if this should be an annual replacement or what.

How often do you guys replace these?

With what brand? I don't think I'll go with the oem.

Thanks.

CHJ In Virginia

I have about the same mileage and track / street mix as you do and my tie rod ends are still solid. I would expect at least 10-20K more before replacement. On the other hand, all it takes is one good hit on a deep pot hole to trash one -----

ErnieN85

don't wait till it falls apart
I had one break (the forged end) totaled the car

as to replacement Vette Brakes in Fla. make a heavy duty greasable one

John Shiels

Depends hot hot they get too. They need shielded.

67Ranger

Ive had moogs from rock auto on my car for about a year now with no issues. They are also greseable, and lifetime warranty.

davidfarmer

if they are wrapped they will last a long long time. If not, they (as well as the lower ball joints) will fail very quickly.

froggy47

Thanks guys

Painrace

The last big impact I had was at MIS in 1993 because an new heim joint failed! We had replaced them all as normal maintenance and the first race out one failed turning me into the outside wall at about 160 MPH. The impact knocked the motor and transmission out of the car!

Jim

John Shiels

get them hot and they are shot in one day after the plastic melts. Moogs are great.

froggy47

What should I wrap the new moog's with? Header wrap?

sothpaw2

I'm thinking header wrap and then some reflective stuff on the outside. The wrap alone I think will just take longer to heat up then hold the heat in (worse). I think what you want is something reflective to reflect the heat back out (barring a heatsink to conduct the heat away).

John Shiels

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

1.5" wrap it around tie rod end and back on rod then safety wire or even wire tie it. It won't get hot enough 3" off tie rod to melt plastic tie wrap. Just flat then you have a double layer and it last for years and years. The plastic get hot it gets soft in the OEM ***** and then I guess it gets compressed easier. I went to the track and in two days I had ***** joints that were fairly lose. Moog and wrap last a long time just grease them once in a while.

Bill Dearborn

I use thermoteck header wrap on the tie rod ends and heat shields made from old soup cans that I cut up. I just cut them so they arced around the tie rod end and then drilled a hole in the can bottom and put it over the tie rod end stud and tightened the nut down.

Bill

John Shiels

If you have spindle ducts just extend them out to cover ball joints. I pop riveted round cirle of an aluminum sign to my LG ducts. They should be made that way.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Haven't had a chance to tear it completely apart to see each bit, but the ZR1's have a factory metal shield for the tie rods and lower ball joints stock. I think there are little screws that hold them into the the upright but let me get one apart to let you know for sure.

froggy47

Post a pic if you can Lou.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Should have Lou's car going on for an oil change this week so I'll get a pic of that one for you.

Anthony

LEAVINU

^^^^Any pics yet Anthony?

travisnd

DEI cool tape is simple and effective. If you want to be even cheaper aluminum duct tape from HD or Lowes pretty much does the same thing. The zip tie is just there for added insurance as the cool-tape is adhesive. What's funny is it reflects enough heat that the zip ties never melt but w/o the heat melts the rubber boots and softens the plastic internals.

BEZ06

Here's a picture of the heat deflector shields on my ZR1. The picture is of the left front wheel, looking back and up at the area. There's a similar shield on the rear wheels also:




I didn't remove the caliper to see exactly how they're mounted on there. Hopefully Anthony will have some better pictures of the LGM ZR1 when they pullk it apart so we can better see how it's mounted to the hub area.

It looks like something anybody could make out of some sheet metal, or soup cans like Bill did!!


BTW, here's a picture of an item that is attached to the front of the lower control arms on the ZR1 to deflect cooling air back and on to the rotor. It looks like something that might help rotor cooling on other cars as well. I don't guess other A-arms have the mounting points to attach the OE ZR1 pieces, but they are something that could easily be fabricated and attached to the A-arms to help direct some additional air onto the rotor.




Bob