Dirty Howie

I am tired killing my back taking the rear calipers off with a torque bar with no room using a jack.

Can you use a cordless impact gun to remove and retorque the 125lb bolts.

Which one should I get. This is the only thing I will be using it for so I want to make sure it will work and fits.

Do I need special 21mm torque heads or will my current sockets work.

I see they come with different volt ratings and varying sizes from 1/4 to 1/2 inch drives.

Never used or owned one so sorry for all the dumb questions.

Hoping to spend only $100


DH

gintama

Yes you can get a cordless impact to do this. Anything less than 20v will be marginal on torque at 125ftlb. The better ones are 24+. The problem is getting one small enough to fit in the space to work. The other issue is staying under $100. To do this, you need to stay with nicad batteries. These have charge memory issues and are usually larger and heavier for such a tight space. My recommendation is spend the extra and not have to worry about nicad issues since you will be letting it sit for long periods. I found a Sears professional model that works for me. Dewalt as well as others make good ones, but will generally be in the $300+ range.

The other problem is, even with a small wrench, the angle for the bolts, because of the control arm, will require you to use a swivel or wobble extension. Snap-on or Sears will be sources. As to the socket, an impact socket is preferred, but due to space problems, I have been using a normal six point 1/2 inch drive socket.

One final note. You could use the impact to tighten, but usually the cheaper units do not have variable torque settings that you can trust, so it is a guess at best. You will need to raise the car high enough to use a manual torque wrench.

rbl

And most won't take it off because their rated torque is only for tightening. Actually the rated torque is a good exaggeration.

Save your $$ if this is really your reason to purchase. It won't "save your back" even if it did work.

VTME13

You could always just undo the toe-rod and turn the upright to get a torque wrench in there.

JDIllon

Save your money! As said before, unless you buy a good one. Snap-on or Milwaukee or DeWalt which would be the least expensive. And even then you may not be able to get the gun in there. I use a Sears high end air impact and works great. You could buy the impact and a compressor for less than a good battery powered impact. JD

z06801

My DeWalt 1/2" works great and saves alot of time it was a little over 200.00 with the batteries

Dirty Howie

Wow glad I asked.

I thought this was a no brainer. Good thing I had enough brain to ask

This is on a C6Z06. I change rotor on front but only pads on rear for track days. But the little caliper pins (only have to remove 1 per caliper side) have got bunged up. The thin shim over the pin is distorted and I cant get it to thighten when the pads are placed. Maybe I should just take the shim off and take the pins out and replace. This makes the rear pad job easy. And rear rotors only need replacing once a year at most .... they never crack on me.


DH

gkmccready

True, but I really like the Milwaukee V28 impact Gary @ HardbarUSA convinced me to get. It keeps me from firing up the compressor at home, and certainly makes life easier on the road...

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/c...ch-kit/0779-22

Feffman

Our center lock wheel nut is torqued to 190 pounds and the Dewalt 18V impact wrench we use to remove the center lock zips them right off. Great kit with an extra battery, charger, etc.

Feff

Bill Dearborn

I bought a no name brand from Northern Tool about 4 years ago. It is a 24 V model and works great. At the time it cost me about $80. Since then the price has increased to about $120.

Just checked. It has a name now and the price is $140.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2146_200442146

Bill

grantar2

I have the Goodyear brand gun that my wife bought me at Pep Boys. I absolutely love it. Battery is strong, regularly takes off and puts back my wheels with no problem. They usually sell for $129. My wife got mine for $69 at Christmas.

I have even had mine thrown across a street when my tire trailer flipped during a u-turn, my fault, still runs fine.

bobmoore2

Howie,

Yes, you should buy an impact wrench, but for taking your wheels off and on. This will really save your arms from a lot of wear and tear. Use a Torque Wrench (set at 100 in/lbs) to do the final tightening on each lug nut.

Bob

JimbeauZ06

with the swivel

Charley Hoyt

The wheels will stay on a lot better if you tighten them to 100 Ft/lbs.....not in/lbs I know that is what you ment to say

0C5stein

Sounds like you guys have had better luck than me.
My Milwaukee is an 18v and will only torque to 90#'. It won't even break lug nuts loose. Soooo... ...I bought Ingersol Rand unit and it works fine when fully charged, but will hardly make it through a day at the track.

Maybe I'm just spoiled, give me an air hose (attached to a Compressor or Nitrogen bottle) and my "Hot Rodded" IR Thundergun and I'm happy.

I need to warn others when they use it, "...if it won't break it loose, it will probably break it off."

Dirty Howie

Thanks Bob but I am okay hand threading and spinning them on with crossbar then torque.

I am either going to find a ratchet that is a little longer and just hand tighten the best I can. I don't really think one will come off with just a few sessions. I will be removing them before and after track days.

Or I may just take out the few bad caliper pins that are binding up and making it impossible to just change the pads. That shim that fits over the pin and against the side of the pad are loose and distorted. I can't even remove the pin. But I assume if I pry the shim off the pin then I can back the pin out and replace. Maybe the shim doesn't even need to be there .... could just be for noise reduction.

I have some extra pins but they are the allen head not torx head.


DH

John Shiels

What happen to arms to keep in shape?

grantar2

My Goodyear takes them one and off no problem. Usually snugs the bolts to 100 ft/lbs but I always follow up with a torque wrench.

I have gone two events without charging, but try not to. Usually charge between race weekends, along with my battery backup / air compressor. I have guys I race with that have had the Goodyears for 3 or more years without problem. Of course Snap On, Matco, and the rest build quality products, but at $100 or less the Goodyear is affordable for everyone.

gkmccready

Ditch the NiMH and get a LiIon battery pack. The V28 works great.

0C5stein

Thanks!!!