Cordless Impact Gun: Advise Please
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Cordless Impact Gun: Advise Please
I am tired killing my back taking the rear calipers off with a torque bar with no room using a jack.
Can you use a cordless impact gun to remove and retorque the 125lb bolts.
Which one should I get. This is the only thing I will be using it for so I want to make sure it will work and fits.
Do I need special 21mm torque heads or will my current sockets work.
I see they come with different volt ratings and varying sizes from 1/4 to 1/2 inch drives.
Never used or owned one so sorry for all the dumb questions.
Hoping to spend only $100
DH
Can you use a cordless impact gun to remove and retorque the 125lb bolts.
Which one should I get. This is the only thing I will be using it for so I want to make sure it will work and fits.
Do I need special 21mm torque heads or will my current sockets work.
I see they come with different volt ratings and varying sizes from 1/4 to 1/2 inch drives.
Never used or owned one so sorry for all the dumb questions.
Hoping to spend only $100
DH
#2
Yes you can get a cordless impact to do this. Anything less than 20v will be marginal on torque at 125ftlb. The better ones are 24+. The problem is getting one small enough to fit in the space to work. The other issue is staying under $100. To do this, you need to stay with nicad batteries. These have charge memory issues and are usually larger and heavier for such a tight space. My recommendation is spend the extra and not have to worry about nicad issues since you will be letting it sit for long periods. I found a Sears professional model that works for me. Dewalt as well as others make good ones, but will generally be in the $300+ range.
The other problem is, even with a small wrench, the angle for the bolts, because of the control arm, will require you to use a swivel or wobble extension. Snap-on or Sears will be sources. As to the socket, an impact socket is preferred, but due to space problems, I have been using a normal six point 1/2 inch drive socket.
One final note. You could use the impact to tighten, but usually the cheaper units do not have variable torque settings that you can trust, so it is a guess at best. You will need to raise the car high enough to use a manual torque wrench.
The other problem is, even with a small wrench, the angle for the bolts, because of the control arm, will require you to use a swivel or wobble extension. Snap-on or Sears will be sources. As to the socket, an impact socket is preferred, but due to space problems, I have been using a normal six point 1/2 inch drive socket.
One final note. You could use the impact to tighten, but usually the cheaper units do not have variable torque settings that you can trust, so it is a guess at best. You will need to raise the car high enough to use a manual torque wrench.
#3
Drifting
And most won't take it off because their rated torque is only for tightening. Actually the rated torque is a good exaggeration.
Save your $$ if this is really your reason to purchase. It won't "save your back" even if it did work.
Save your $$ if this is really your reason to purchase. It won't "save your back" even if it did work.
#5
Melting Slicks
Save your money! As said before, unless you buy a good one. Snap-on or Milwaukee or DeWalt which would be the least expensive. And even then you may not be able to get the gun in there. I use a Sears high end air impact and works great. You could buy the impact and a compressor for less than a good battery powered impact. JD
Last edited by JDIllon; 06-18-2011 at 01:57 PM.
#6
Melting Slicks
My DeWalt 1/2" works great and saves alot of time it was a little over 200.00 with the batteries
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Wow glad I asked.
I thought this was a no brainer. Good thing I had enough brain to ask
This is on a C6Z06. I change rotor on front but only pads on rear for track days. But the little caliper pins (only have to remove 1 per caliper side) have got bunged up. The thin shim over the pin is distorted and I cant get it to thighten when the pads are placed. Maybe I should just take the shim off and take the pins out and replace. This makes the rear pad job easy. And rear rotors only need replacing once a year at most .... they never crack on me.
DH
I thought this was a no brainer. Good thing I had enough brain to ask
This is on a C6Z06. I change rotor on front but only pads on rear for track days. But the little caliper pins (only have to remove 1 per caliper side) have got bunged up. The thin shim over the pin is distorted and I cant get it to thighten when the pads are placed. Maybe I should just take the shim off and take the pins out and replace. This makes the rear pad job easy. And rear rotors only need replacing once a year at most .... they never crack on me.
DH
#8
Safety Car
Save your money! As said before, unless you buy a good one. Snap-on or Milwaukee or DeWalt which would be the least expensive. And even then you may not be able to get the gun in there. I use a Sears high end air impact and works great. You could buy the impact and a compressor for less than a good battery powered impact. JD
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/c...ch-kit/0779-22
#9
Racer
Our center lock wheel nut is torqued to 190 pounds and the Dewalt 18V impact wrench we use to remove the center lock zips them right off. Great kit with an extra battery, charger, etc.
Feff
Feff
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,096
Received 8,930 Likes
on
5,334 Posts
I bought a no name brand from Northern Tool about 4 years ago. It is a 24 V model and works great. At the time it cost me about $80. Since then the price has increased to about $120.
Just checked. It has a name now and the price is $140.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2146_200442146
Bill
Just checked. It has a name now and the price is $140.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2146_200442146
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 06-18-2011 at 05:28 PM.
#11
I have the Goodyear brand gun that my wife bought me at Pep Boys. I absolutely love it. Battery is strong, regularly takes off and puts back my wheels with no problem. They usually sell for $129. My wife got mine for $69 at Christmas.
I have even had mine thrown across a street when my tire trailer flipped during a u-turn, my fault, still runs fine.
I have even had mine thrown across a street when my tire trailer flipped during a u-turn, my fault, still runs fine.
#12
Drifting
Howie,
Yes, you should buy an impact wrench, but for taking your wheels off and on. This will really save your arms from a lot of wear and tear. Use a Torque Wrench (set at 100 in/lbs) to do the final tightening on each lug nut.
Bob
Yes, you should buy an impact wrench, but for taking your wheels off and on. This will really save your arms from a lot of wear and tear. Use a Torque Wrench (set at 100 in/lbs) to do the final tightening on each lug nut.
Bob
#14
Safety Car
The wheels will stay on a lot better if you tighten them to 100 Ft/lbs.....not in/lbs I know that is what you ment to say
#15
Former Vendor
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Defending the US Constitution in Northern CA
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Sounds like you guys have had better luck than me.
My Milwaukee is an 18v and will only torque to 90#'. It won't even break lug nuts loose. Soooo... ...I bought Ingersol Rand unit and it works fine when fully charged, but will hardly make it through a day at the track.
Maybe I'm just spoiled, give me an air hose (attached to a Compressor or Nitrogen bottle) and my "Hot Rodded" IR Thundergun and I'm happy.
I need to warn others when they use it, "...if it won't break it loose, it will probably break it off."
My Milwaukee is an 18v and will only torque to 90#'. It won't even break lug nuts loose. Soooo... ...I bought Ingersol Rand unit and it works fine when fully charged, but will hardly make it through a day at the track.
Maybe I'm just spoiled, give me an air hose (attached to a Compressor or Nitrogen bottle) and my "Hot Rodded" IR Thundergun and I'm happy.
I need to warn others when they use it, "...if it won't break it loose, it will probably break it off."
#16
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I am either going to find a ratchet that is a little longer and just hand tighten the best I can. I don't really think one will come off with just a few sessions. I will be removing them before and after track days.
Or I may just take out the few bad caliper pins that are binding up and making it impossible to just change the pads. That shim that fits over the pin and against the side of the pad are loose and distorted. I can't even remove the pin. But I assume if I pry the shim off the pin then I can back the pin out and replace. Maybe the shim doesn't even need to be there .... could just be for noise reduction.
I have some extra pins but they are the allen head not torx head.
DH
#18
Sounds like you guys have had better luck than me.
My Milwaukee is an 18v and will only torque to 90#'. It won't even break lug nuts loose. Soooo... ...I bought Ingersol Rand unit and it works fine when fully charged, but will hardly make it through a day at the track.
Maybe I'm just spoiled, give me an air hose (attached to a Compressor or Nitrogen bottle) and my "Hot Rodded" IR Thundergun and I'm happy.
I need to warn others when they use it, "...if it won't break it loose, it will probably break it off."
My Milwaukee is an 18v and will only torque to 90#'. It won't even break lug nuts loose. Soooo... ...I bought Ingersol Rand unit and it works fine when fully charged, but will hardly make it through a day at the track.
Maybe I'm just spoiled, give me an air hose (attached to a Compressor or Nitrogen bottle) and my "Hot Rodded" IR Thundergun and I'm happy.
I need to warn others when they use it, "...if it won't break it loose, it will probably break it off."
I have gone two events without charging, but try not to. Usually charge between race weekends, along with my battery backup / air compressor. I have guys I race with that have had the Goodyears for 3 or more years without problem. Of course Snap On, Matco, and the rest build quality products, but at $100 or less the Goodyear is affordable for everyone.
#19
Safety Car
Ditch the NiMH and get a LiIon battery pack. The V28 works great.