Brake fluid
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Brake fluid
So I need to freshen up the car after the track and I want to know if there is better brake fluid out there than what I am using. I am using Willwood 600+ and after one track day its well cooked to say the least. I have heard people rave about the Castrol SRF but $75 for a quart is a bit extreme for something I am going to still have to throw out after one day. Is there anything better than the Willwood or am I stuck with it?
#4
Guys this is crazy talk...
SRF will last many track events...this isn't pro racing where $ are endless and everything is new for each event and tires are pitched after a few practice laps.
ATE blue/amber as well as Motul are great BF's for the track. The reason ATE has 2 colors is that you can see the change in color...so you don't need more than a liter to change fluids.
If you think you should change your oil, BF, etc. after each DE then why aren't you changing your diff and trans fluid too?
SRF will last many track events...this isn't pro racing where $ are endless and everything is new for each event and tires are pitched after a few practice laps.
ATE blue/amber as well as Motul are great BF's for the track. The reason ATE has 2 colors is that you can see the change in color...so you don't need more than a liter to change fluids.
If you think you should change your oil, BF, etc. after each DE then why aren't you changing your diff and trans fluid too?
#5
Safety Car
I would venture that if put in the SRF right before a July event (I open the bottle and do the change 2-5 days before) then probably through August you would be ok without a change. For the August event, I would bleed'em 2 days prior and just throw some motul in the reservoir to compenate rather than buy a 2nd can of SRF. So I think 1 can of SRF (which I proved out is enough for the system) is enough for 2 events if they are spaced close. Not sure I will try this if events are further apart.
What is your sweat worth on a hot evening/morning before track? For sure with the SRF and ss pistons and Ti plates, I was finally happy with the pedal height (it didn't move all weekend except due to rotor change...and it still came right back from that). I didn't have to bleed after day 1 or prior to day 2. I think it's worth $35 over Motul in the hot summer when I don't want to work on the car outside.
What is your sweat worth on a hot evening/morning before track? For sure with the SRF and ss pistons and Ti plates, I was finally happy with the pedal height (it didn't move all weekend except due to rotor change...and it still came right back from that). I didn't have to bleed after day 1 or prior to day 2. I think it's worth $35 over Motul in the hot summer when I don't want to work on the car outside.
#6
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So I need to freshen up the car after the track and I want to know if there is better brake fluid out there than what I am using. I am using Willwood 600+ and after one track day its well cooked to say the least. I have heard people rave about the Castrol SRF but $75 for a quart is a bit extreme for something I am going to still have to throw out after one day. Is there anything better than the Willwood or am I stuck with it?
I tried the 600+ a couple of years ago and found a couple of bottles that had unbroken twist caps but no vapor seals under the caps and I had to return them to the store where I bought them. If you had some unsealed bottles that would reduce the boiling point down to the wet boiling point level which is around 300 degrees for the Wilwood fluid.
Bill
#8
Le Mans Master
On my 92 I was flushing fluid (full change) after every track event because the fluid was as grungy as yours after every event. I finally got tired of it and replaced the master and all four calipers with rebuilts. Flushed all the nasty fluid and so far this year a little bleed after each event to get a little grey fluid out and its good to go.
I'll bet you have a deteriorating seal thats putting the black color in the fluid.
I'll bet you have a deteriorating seal thats putting the black color in the fluid.
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Guys this is crazy talk...
SRF will last many track events...this isn't pro racing where $ are endless and everything is new for each event and tires are pitched after a few practice laps.
ATE blue/amber as well as Motul are great BF's for the track. The reason ATE has 2 colors is that you can see the change in color...so you don't need more than a liter to change fluids.
If you think you should change your oil, BF, etc. after each DE then why aren't you changing your diff and trans fluid too?
SRF will last many track events...this isn't pro racing where $ are endless and everything is new for each event and tires are pitched after a few practice laps.
ATE blue/amber as well as Motul are great BF's for the track. The reason ATE has 2 colors is that you can see the change in color...so you don't need more than a liter to change fluids.
If you think you should change your oil, BF, etc. after each DE then why aren't you changing your diff and trans fluid too?
Agreed this is a street car and my pockets aren't as big as a race team by any means. You think I will need more than a liter to get rid of the black fluid
What makes you think the fluid is well cooked after one day. Wilwood 600+ is about as high of a temp fluid as you can buy. Castrol SRF has a lower boiling point than 600+ does. If you are cooking the Wilwood fluid SRF will be cooked as well. I run Wilwood 570 and have never cooked it. For clarity's sake, what exactly do you mean by cooked? Castrol's claim to fame isn't its dry boiling point of 590 degrees but its wet boiling point of 518 degrees which means you don't have to change it as often since its wet boiling point is sometimes a lot better than other brands dry boiling points.
I tried the 600+ a couple of years ago and found a couple of bottles that had unbroken twist caps but no vapor seals under the caps and I had to return them to the store where I bought them. If you had some unsealed bottles that would reduce the boiling point down to the wet boiling point level which is around 300 degrees for the Wilwood fluid.
Bill
I tried the 600+ a couple of years ago and found a couple of bottles that had unbroken twist caps but no vapor seals under the caps and I had to return them to the store where I bought them. If you had some unsealed bottles that would reduce the boiling point down to the wet boiling point level which is around 300 degrees for the Wilwood fluid.
Bill
On my 92 I was flushing fluid (full change) after every track event because the fluid was as grungy as yours after every event. I finally got tired of it and replaced the master and all four calipers with rebuilts. Flushed all the nasty fluid and so far this year a little bleed after each event to get a little grey fluid out and its good to go.
I'll bet you have a deteriorating seal thats putting the black color in the fluid.
I'll bet you have a deteriorating seal thats putting the black color in the fluid.