Red5

98 c5. Mostly autocrossing. For years I had actual race car mechaics do my alignments. They would hold for at least two years. But these guys are no longer available. So I"ve been taking the car to a local trustworthy shop and giving the guys specs to hit. They do hit my numbers and the car handles great. After I race and am on the way home it starts pulling one way or the other.

Do you guys ever use lock tight or any other products to keep things tight?

Is this an issue where these guys need to put some serious elbow grease to work?

Can they use air tools to tighten things down?

What can I tell your average Joe to do in order to keep the car alignment from slipping out of spec?

Z06 AXer

Take a look at your lower a-arm bushings. On the early C5 Z06 it was common for the bushings to be crushed to nothing leaving you chasing the alignment as the ruibber deteriorates.

Jason

Tighten the cam bolts with the longest breaker bar and the biggest hammer you can. Those are big bolts, you aren't going to break them.

BERETTA

And if you still have problems go to the PFADT Camber Kit, Installed one a couple weeks ago on a C6, its a little time consuming to get right but not much way it can move afterwards...

CP Thunder

+1..........we NEVER worry about this issue anymore. Stud kit on the uppers makes things so easy to adjust.......hint.......tape the tops of the shims together once you get the correct setup......keeps them from falling apart when you are working on the suspension.

The PFADT poly kit with offset bolts make it easy to adjust from aggressive setting to less aggressive just by jacking up the car, removing the nuts on the upper studs and flipping the bolts over.........quick and easy 'street' to 'track' and back again.

AU N EGL

control arm bushings may need to be replaced. now bolts while your at it.

and get some camber blocks.

CHJ In Virginia

Check all bushings and replace as necessary. Once alignment is set to your specs mark everything with paint. Get a yellow enamel and small brush. Paint a line across every adjustment point, bolt and eccentric cam. That way you can examine and quickly know if something has shifted. You can also easily restore settings by just aligning everything back up according to the marks.

Charley Hoyt

I had a similar problem with my car. The shop kept telling me this was normal when racing...it's not. I finally brought the shop the torque specs from the shop manual and that solved the problem. They admitted that they felt they didn't normally use a torque wrench

96CollectorSport

Torque is supposed to be 125 ft lbs, if they don't torque then they will come loose. Tell them the torque spec and it will probably solve the problem.

alextz

I use 140 ft-lbs on the back, otherwise they move.
front needs 125 ft-lbs on the camber cam, 110 ish on the caster cam.