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Diff/Tranny Coolers...Options

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Old 01-25-2013, 02:15 AM
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GettReal
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Default Diff/Tranny Coolers...Options

Just looking into this but couldn't find an up to date thread that mentions any options except the below.. Are these my only options, if they are, then I need to pick one of them and most likely will aim toward cost?

This seems to be the negative feedback on whats available and the positive is they all work well. Am I missing out on some other kit? I have heard the DRM/T1 kits and they are pretty darn loud.

T1 kit - Loud and expensive
DRM - Loud
LG - Expensive and always run

Steve
Old 01-25-2013, 08:51 AM
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yooper
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:27 AM
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NOSLO6
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I have DRM trans and diff coolers and have been really happy with them. They do make some noise, but I don't hear them over my exhaust on track (nor are they distracting when the exhaust is in quiet mode). Since you can keep them turned off when you're not tracking the car noise isn't a factor for me.
Old 01-25-2013, 09:35 AM
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CHJ In Virginia
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I did the same type of research last year and settled on the DRM kit. Cost effective, It Works!, Comprehensive kit with almost all parts needed included. Here is a thread I posted about my install process with a lot of pictures.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...ful-hints.html
If your car is dual purpose, no worry about the noise. You just turn the pump off while driving on the street - on track - who cares ?
Old 01-25-2013, 10:55 AM
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Drm
Old 01-25-2013, 12:10 PM
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It is looking like the DRM Direction... thanks for the input so far.
Old 01-25-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GettReal
It is looking like the DRM Direction... thanks for the input so far.
You could design and put together your own and save some money but I know how lazy you Northerner's can be, something about how cold it is outside

I did mine for about $600 - $700. It's just (2) coolers, (2) 12v pumps, (2) 12v relays and then some wiring, hose and AN fittings. It's all low pressure so it is easy to make the hoses.
Old 01-25-2013, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by geerookie
You could design and put together your own and save some money but I know how lazy you Northerner's can be, something about how cold it is outside

I did mine for about $600 - $700. It's just (2) coolers, (2) 12v pumps, (2) 12v relays and then some wiring, hose and AN fittings. It's all low pressure so it is easy to make the hoses.


Thats kind of the answer I was looking for. I did more searching and found that you can just get the tilton pumps for about 140. each (same as what everyone seems to be using) and a couple BM coolers for about 80 each, so your $600 in parts is what I was thinking as well. Would I really just be paying more for the convenience of having it sent to me in a kit?

However, Its also true that I can be lazy in these winter months (currently 10 degrees f). But I'll have my shop do it in their heated garage, I'll just supply the kit for half the price.
Old 01-25-2013, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GettReal


Thats kind of the answer I was looking for. I did more searching and found that you can just get the tilton pumps for about 140. each (same as what everyone seems to be using) and a couple BM coolers for about 80 each, so your $600 in parts is what I was thinking as well. Would I really just be paying more for the convenience of having it sent to me in a kit?

However, Its also true that I can be lazy in these winter months (currently 10 degrees f). But I'll have my shop do it in their heated garage, I'll just supply the kit for half the price.
DRM uses Fluidyne coolers so they are more money than BM.
I have 1 Setrab and 1 Mocal. You can get them or Fluidyne for $70 - $100 if you shop in the right places. I bought the pumps the same place I got my coolers and they were less than $140. All the AN fittings cost almost as much as the pumps and coolers. I also put in a filter on the trans system and I have expansion/overflow tanks with 1/4 turn drains.
Old 01-25-2013, 05:40 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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When I bought my T1 kit back in 99 it came with a Fluidyne cooler, all of the control wiring cut to fit, hoses cut to fit, required hose fittings and the Tilton pump. After a couple of years I had to have the pump rebuilt by Tilton. They said it looked like metal particles tore up the pump and suggested I put a filter in the line between the tranny drain and the pump. I knew there was something wrong when the pump started making strange sucking noises.

One way to reduce noise is to figure out how to decouple the pump from the car frame. The T1 pump mounts low on the frame just behind the rocker panel and if front of the inner wheel well on the passenger side of the car. As soon as it turns on the vibration is transmitted to the frame and through the car. If you can isolate the pump so it bolts to something that absorbs the vibration and doesn't transmit it to the frame the pump would be a lot quieter. Probably true of the DRM setups as well.

The T1 kit comes with a 178? degree thermostat that mounts to the transmission case and the cooler would turn on after about 3 laps at the Glen. Had it turn on one time on a long road trip so it is a good idea to install a separate switch in the car somewhere in easy reach. You can also pull the fuse but it is under the hood and can be forgotten so the switch gives you the best way to keep it off when you don't want it on.

Bill
Old 01-27-2013, 12:27 AM
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Perma-cool two in one cooler with fan and two pumps...........works really well. Thermostat controlled off the diff side........filtered and check valved.


Last edited by CP Thunder; 01-27-2013 at 12:31 AM.
Old 01-27-2013, 12:48 AM
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CP I'm unfamiliar with how these cars look gutted, but I ASSume yours is in the trunk? I tracked with a group that does 30 minute sessions and managed to overheat the trans there, but on the 20 minute NASA sessions I don't. That said, I'm sure it gets close. My concern with the DRM kits is the fact that they steal your rear brake cooling. There must be another way that keeps your rear brake cooling and doesn't require chopping a hole in your floor?
Old 01-27-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
CP I'm unfamiliar with how these cars look gutted, but I ASSume yours is in the trunk? I tracked with a group that does 30 minute sessions and managed to overheat the trans there, but on the 20 minute NASA sessions I don't. That said, I'm sure it gets close. My concern with the DRM kits is the fact that they steal your rear brake cooling. There must be another way that keeps your rear brake cooling and doesn't require chopping a hole in your floor?
your rear brakes will be fine I have the DRM kit for years.
Old 01-27-2013, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
CP I'm unfamiliar with how these cars look gutted, There must be another way that keeps your rear brake cooling and doesn't require chopping a hole in your floor?
with the aft storage compartment gone, you can pull the diff/trans in 30 minutes

No more lowering the TT to clear the storage box
Old 01-27-2013, 11:54 PM
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Default interesting,but not real practical for most

Originally Posted by CP Thunder
Perma-cool two in one cooler with fan and two pumps...........works really well. Thermostat controlled off the diff side........filtered and check valved.

And why is the new C7 not set up this way?
Old 01-28-2013, 12:06 AM
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Where does the hot air vent to in such a setup? I'm guessing it sucks air from under the car the into the car but then what?
Old 01-28-2013, 12:45 AM
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redtopz
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Originally Posted by Supercharged111
Where does the hot air vent to in such a setup? I'm guessing it sucks air from under the car the into the car but then what?
That fan setup looks like it's blowing air down.

As far as diff/tranny coolers, if you have a designated race car and are serious about enduro racing or keeping things as simple as possible, I would go with the LG system with dual pumps which are mechanically driven off the rear diff. Very elegant and effective design with no electrical wires or pumps which can fail or blow fuses.

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Old 01-28-2013, 08:25 AM
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chuntington101
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Originally Posted by redtopz
That fan setup looks like it's blowing air down.

As far as diff/tranny coolers, if you have a designated race car and are serious about enduro racing or keeping things as simple as possible, I would go with the LG system with dual pumps which are mechanically driven off the rear diff. Very elegant and effective design with no electrical wires or pumps which can fail or blow fuses.
...and stick the radiators in the trunk and vent where the licence plate sits! some racers (not corvettes) stick the engine rads in the trunk area as it helps miove the weight backwards and means a missive intercooler / smother front bodywork can be used.
Old 01-28-2013, 02:12 PM
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You will run into some significant air flow issues with rear fascia vented coolers unless you do a bit of fab and testing
Old 01-28-2013, 07:13 PM
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Hey guys,

You already mentioned one of the key points on our kit, and that is that it is always on, so you don't forget to turn it on during your session.

Couple other benefits
  • Less wiring
  • Lighter weight
  • No noise from the electrical pumps
  • Less packaging



This is how it is typically mounted in a weekend HPDE car.
Diff pump and cover pump


Filter


Cooler Mounted



Now with our kits you can get them in a single stage pump for diff only, or two stage for diff and trans. You can also get the kit as just the fittings, pump, cover, drive assembly for those that want to run your own lines and coolers. You can also get it as shown in the above kit with lines, filters, coolers, and brackets.

So there options when you want to do the kit, so don't let the full kit price scare you if you are putting something together on your own.

If you have any questions, I'm more than happy to help!


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