Gman57

Who is using the Drop-down spindles and Mono-*****.... is the mod worth the $$$$ for a race only car? How much improvement can you expect in the corners?
Looking for input

G

geerookie

I have Pfadt Sphericals and have lowered the ride height by changing the upper mounting points of the coilovers instead of dropped spindles (too expensive).
Second to the Penske 8760's this is the best mod I have made. The communication and responsiveness of the chassis is spectacular assuming you have a cage which helped stiffen the chassis.

sperkins

Depends on what you're on now.
Difference will be massive if you're still on rubber bushings.
I upgraded from Pfadt poly to their sphericals and it was a waste of money in my opinion.

RX-Ben

Scott - on the money aspect - have you run enough to notice a difference in tire wear (ie - more even), so you can get a few more sessions from a set?
Mark's car had a ton of LCA movement with poly's - I would think the sphericals would cure this, which would help w/tire wear as the static alignment settings should more closely correlate to dynamic ones.

Gman57

Tire wear would be a huge savings in it self @ 1500.00 a set
I do have Pfadt bushings now and the retainers do not like to stay in place I'm just wanting the best route but don't want to throw my cash down the drain

AtomicZ

If car is full on race car go with the mono-***** and solid mounts.

If you drive the car any real amount of time on the street I would probably stay with Pfadt.

2MCHPWR

This very sophisticated approach has held mine in place for four (4) track days so far:

sperkins

I've run 4 weekends with the sphericals and I haven't noticed any increase in tire wear or performance. With that said, I've been running the same alignment settings as I did before. I could probably dial out a little camber, but I haven't yet.
I chewed through the last set of tires in short order - quicker than normal. When I finished the weekend a couple of weeks ago at Rd Atl, the RF was into the steel way beyond cording. I've never done that before. Maybe my bump steer kit is to blame. Not sure so I'm going to remove it and start back over.
Also, one of the front upper bearings is already loose. I'm not knocking the product whatsoever as Pfadt has been great to me and many that I know. Their customer service is second to none. I just need to do a better job of setting up the car with all the new goodies.

Gman57

I like that!!!! Why didn't I think of that

Thanks

geerookie

Huge difference. I have been running spherical's for 3 years and still have tires with 85+ heat cycles that have very even wear.
Poly has many issues and compression under load is only one of them.

mountainbiker2

Here is a write up I did a couple of years ago for the spherical bearings.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...ng-review.html

I had one upper control arm bearing get loose right away. Never replaced it. All the other bearings seem good. I would probably do it again for a race car only. I would never do Poly bushings again. I also had LG drop spindles. No issues with them, except if you run a 17" rear wheel. Then you have to carve out a lot of aluminum off your LCA so they want damage your wheel. 18" wheels would be better. I would also do that again. I don't think you can put a time on any of these products. It all adds up to a better time sooner then later.



Steve A.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

[QUOTE=geerookie;1585057960 lowered the ride height by changing the upper pickup points instead of dropped spindles (too expensive).[/QUOTE]

That I don't understand.......

You can change anti-dive by changing pickup points either at the upper, lower, or both control arms...but you would have to move both upper and lowers to drop the car and not effect a lot of other things on the car. To do that correctly, a drop spindle would be a more cost effective way. Just moving the upper control arm enough to lower the car 1" is going to change more than ride height.



As for our drops you do get a bit more than a lowered ride height from it as well. Just a few things that these will do for you.

• Lowered ride height by 1"
• Stiffer mounting pad for wheel bearings
• Stiffer mounts for caliper ears
• Increased camber gain
• Improved bump steer
• My favorite.....you can change wheel bearins without removing the lower control arm!!

If you have any questions about those, I would be more than happy to assist.

jasonberkeley

Anthony, do the drop spindles work with 17" wheels in the front?

geerookie

Sorry, typing too fast. I meant upper mounting points or the coilovers. (Changed it in the original post.)

Still maintain full 4 1/2" of shock travel, 2.25" compression and 2.25" rebound.
One thing that does suck....still have to disconnect LCA to change wheel bearings. Fortunately I don't have to do it often with the SKF's.

davidfarmer

Based on my World Challenge experience, when the teams that could afford them went to Drop Spindles, it really gave them an edge. I never could afford them, but running that low AND keeping proper geometry really helped aero and mechanical grip. It's impossible to get a car low enough on OEM spindles to get good front aero without killing the mechanical handling!

mountainbiker2

I had 17" in the front with no problem. It's the back that you will have trouble with.

geerookie

Yes.

jtmck

No, you can do it and have good geometry.
I am 3.25 off the ground at front subframe.
I am ready to manufacture and market my kit.

Lowered spindles make the car look good, but lower the roll center the same 1" drop. Not good.

Jim M.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Changing the shock locations would help and allow more travel of the shock if you are going to run the car that low.

However not practical for a dual purpose street/race car as your rear shocks now would have to stick through the tub of the car, and depending on what you do with the front it is going to mean changing the location of the coolant and/or washer tank as the shocks would go right through it.

Also is going to mean cutting and welding of new shock mounts onto the frame of the car.

On top of that, if the only point you moved was the shock location you are still putting the car into a completely different arc section of the control arms and still have to fight the bump steer issues...and stick with the stock camber gains.

Yes it is another way to lower the car, but compared to doing the spindles you still do not get all of the benefits.



All of us that have been racing the Corvettes over the years have been able to move the shock points, and pickup points on the cars to move things around to where they need to be, for racing and not have to live with the compromising they did for a street car. If it was as simple as just moving the shock up to lower the car...we wouldn't have went through the trouble of doing the spindles. We were running these for years before we ever released them to the public, so it is not a 'new' product to those of us racing the cars.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

You should not have a problem with them in the front.

Because the bearing does move upwards it brings the lower section of the wheel closer to the lower control arms. Depending on shock length, droop, offset, width......you may need to clearance the rears as was shown above.

It does at the same token give you more room at the top, which many have found in the past when running smaller diameter (17 and 18), wide wheels on the rear and see the upper control arm and wheel hitting each other enough that they will not turn.