Front Tow Hook Install
05-24-2014, 10:48 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Front Tow Hook Install
Front tow hook from VMS, comes with two rather large riv-nuts. I had zero luck with these... first I didn't have the correct size bit (33/64), and second I don't think it is possible to install a riv-nut that size without hydraulic assistance (a jam nut is provided, but the riv-nut is just too big for muscle power).
Instead, I found that you can access the area where the holes in the front brace/crossmember are drilled from the side. It's only about 6" - 8" in (two holes)... too far to reach, but I just taped the two provided bolts to a wooden paint stirrer -- the correct distance apart -- and dropped them into the drilled holes from the top (from inside the frame member). Then put the tow hook in place, followed by a couple of split lockwashers and a couple nuts. Success!
In the past I've found that in a situation like this you don't necessarily need to hold the bolt while tightening the nut... the split lockwasher provides sufficient tension to keep the bolt from turning. But worst case I think you could have gotten a long 12 point box end wrench in there to hold the bolt head if needed.
This was from the drivers side (the tow hook is up against the left frame member, on the inside).
Sorry no pix, other than one after the fact -- had several projects going on at once while I had the front fascia off and just didn't have the spare time (didn't think of it either -- duh).
Instead, I found that you can access the area where the holes in the front brace/crossmember are drilled from the side. It's only about 6" - 8" in (two holes)... too far to reach, but I just taped the two provided bolts to a wooden paint stirrer -- the correct distance apart -- and dropped them into the drilled holes from the top (from inside the frame member). Then put the tow hook in place, followed by a couple of split lockwashers and a couple nuts. Success!
In the past I've found that in a situation like this you don't necessarily need to hold the bolt while tightening the nut... the split lockwasher provides sufficient tension to keep the bolt from turning. But worst case I think you could have gotten a long 12 point box end wrench in there to hold the bolt head if needed.
This was from the drivers side (the tow hook is up against the left frame member, on the inside).
Sorry no pix, other than one after the fact -- had several projects going on at once while I had the front fascia off and just didn't have the spare time (didn't think of it either -- duh).
05-25-2014, 12:09 PM
#2
I had Moroso install mine. First time removing the bumper as well. Lots of learning points I didn't get just watching videos and reading posts. The first time you do the front bumper removal is a big job IMO. Lots of fasteners among other issues. Sure, it would go better the next time but it sucks for sure.
I have the same hook and the rivnuts didn't work for us either.
Paul in the chassis shop fabricated a piece of bar stock to go inside the fender tube, he welded the nuts to it and was able to then bolt on the tow hook up through the bumper rail and into his bar piece.
In addition, the hook shape doesn't seem very usable. It would come out so close to the bumper that the first time you hook up to it, you will likely damage paint.
Paul used a bender in the shop and put a new shape of the hook so it comes out lower in the grill. I think you will see that in the finished picture. It required trimming of a plastic pice right under the hook and trimming the hole in the grill lower than VMS showed.
I use it to winch the car in and out of the trailer. The winch clasp still gets very close to the painted bumper but is better that not having the bend.
What I've been doing is driving the car onto the trailer ramp so the bumper is almost in the car, maybe a foot or two out.
This way, the tow line and hook pull from a lower angle and I have good clearance going into the trailer.
Can't believe we have to do all this.
I have the same hook and the rivnuts didn't work for us either.
Paul in the chassis shop fabricated a piece of bar stock to go inside the fender tube, he welded the nuts to it and was able to then bolt on the tow hook up through the bumper rail and into his bar piece.
In addition, the hook shape doesn't seem very usable. It would come out so close to the bumper that the first time you hook up to it, you will likely damage paint.
Paul used a bender in the shop and put a new shape of the hook so it comes out lower in the grill. I think you will see that in the finished picture. It required trimming of a plastic pice right under the hook and trimming the hole in the grill lower than VMS showed.
I use it to winch the car in and out of the trailer. The winch clasp still gets very close to the painted bumper but is better that not having the bend.
What I've been doing is driving the car onto the trailer ramp so the bumper is almost in the car, maybe a foot or two out.
This way, the tow line and hook pull from a lower angle and I have good clearance going into the trailer.
Can't believe we have to do all this.
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