Alignment pros (diy especially) need an opinion
05-31-2014, 12:43 AM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Alignment pros (diy especially) need an opinion
I did mine today & the before was sort of a surprise. RF corner gained .4 degrees of neg camber.
Both front corners were slightly toe IN, I had it set at ZERO toe.
LR had kept it's neg. setting but RR gained .25 neg.
2 years since previous alignment
3-4 track days (minimal curbs) and about 40 autox.
Pfadt camber kit all around. 10k street miles.
I did corner weight it about a month ago, minimal adjustment.
So is this pretty much par for the course given that use or are the changes telling me something that I am not getting?
Ball joints as original 55k miles don't see any play there, I did replace RR wheel bearing, now that I think of it & the UCA bolts were taken off for new shocks & The shims were taped together & replaced as original. One other event was I had a "Vette Shop" replace the balancer, which he redid once, then I had to do again because he screwed the pooch on both tries.
Now that I type this all in I guess a lot has passed.
Phew.
Comments.
Both front corners were slightly toe IN, I had it set at ZERO toe.
LR had kept it's neg. setting but RR gained .25 neg.
2 years since previous alignment
3-4 track days (minimal curbs) and about 40 autox.
Pfadt camber kit all around. 10k street miles.
I did corner weight it about a month ago, minimal adjustment.
So is this pretty much par for the course given that use or are the changes telling me something that I am not getting?
Ball joints as original 55k miles don't see any play there, I did replace RR wheel bearing, now that I think of it & the UCA bolts were taken off for new shocks & The shims were taped together & replaced as original. One other event was I had a "Vette Shop" replace the balancer, which he redid once, then I had to do again because he screwed the pooch on both tries.
Now that I type this all in I guess a lot has passed.
Phew.
Comments.
05-31-2014, 07:51 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
05-31-2014, 08:32 AM
#3
Race Director
05-31-2014, 01:44 PM
#6
Couple of things I can tell you from doing lots of my own alignment on mine. The removing of the upper control arm bolts will change things generally as there is quite a bit of play in the mount holes, so the mounts can slide up/down and left/right on the threaded bolt before its tightened. That can alter the caster mostly but caster can change camber (and then of course toe)
The lower control cam bolts (front or rear) can sometimes move even when tightened to spec, especially if you run hooisiers on a bumpy surface. That can apply larger lateral loads. Best to mark them so you will know if they ever move.
Adjusting the lower control arms via the cam bolts changes where the spring pushes on them, that ultimately gives a different wheel rate which can change ride height and corner balance. So its best if your alignment is where you want it before doing the corner balance.
The lower control cam bolts (front or rear) can sometimes move even when tightened to spec, especially if you run hooisiers on a bumpy surface. That can apply larger lateral loads. Best to mark them so you will know if they ever move.
Adjusting the lower control arms via the cam bolts changes where the spring pushes on them, that ultimately gives a different wheel rate which can change ride height and corner balance. So its best if your alignment is where you want it before doing the corner balance.
Last edited by z06fun1; 05-31-2014 at 01:47 PM.
05-31-2014, 02:38 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Couple of things I can tell you from doing lots of my own alignment on mine. The removing of the upper control arm bolts will change things generally as there is quite a bit of play in the mount holes, so the mounts can slide up/down and left/right on the threaded bolt before its tightened. That can alter the caster mostly but caster can change camber (and then of course toe)
The lower control cam bolts (front or rear) can sometimes move even when tightened to spec, especially if you run hooisiers on a bumpy surface. That can apply larger lateral loads. Best to mark them so you will know if they ever move.
Adjusting the lower control arms via the cam bolts changes where the spring pushes on them, that ultimately gives a different wheel rate which can change ride height and corner balance. So its best if your alignment is where you want it before doing the corner balance.
The lower control cam bolts (front or rear) can sometimes move even when tightened to spec, especially if you run hooisiers on a bumpy surface. That can apply larger lateral loads. Best to mark them so you will know if they ever move.
Adjusting the lower control arms via the cam bolts changes where the spring pushes on them, that ultimately gives a different wheel rate which can change ride height and corner balance. So its best if your alignment is where you want it before doing the corner balance.
The more I think about it:
Changing the RR wheel bearing could be related to the significant change there.
I have the Pfadt kit so NO cam bolts anywhere.
There do seem to be large tolerances around the front upper control arms (I have the stud kit) and (I suppose) when the incompetent who did the balancer (2x) pulled the shims and put them back who knows if they went back where I had them (could explain the toe in front).
So there was more than enough going on to account for significant changes, little did I know.
Last edited by froggy47; 05-31-2014 at 02:41 PM.
06-02-2014, 01:08 AM
#9
I did mine today & the before was sort of a surprise. RF corner gained .4 degrees of neg camber.
Both front corners were slightly toe IN, I had it set at ZERO toe.
LR had kept it's neg. setting but RR gained .25 neg.
2 years since previous alignment
3-4 track days (minimal curbs) and about 40 autox.
Pfadt camber kit all around. 10k street miles.
I did corner weight it about a month ago, minimal adjustment.
So is this pretty much par for the course given that use or are the changes telling me something that I am not getting?
Ball joints as original 55k miles don't see any play there, I did replace RR wheel bearing, now that I think of it & the UCA bolts were taken off for new shocks & The shims were taped together & replaced as original. One other event was I had a "Vette Shop" replace the balancer, which he redid once, then I had to do again because he screwed the pooch on both tries.
Now that I type this all in I guess a lot has passed.
Phew.
Comments.
Both front corners were slightly toe IN, I had it set at ZERO toe.
LR had kept it's neg. setting but RR gained .25 neg.
2 years since previous alignment
3-4 track days (minimal curbs) and about 40 autox.
Pfadt camber kit all around. 10k street miles.
I did corner weight it about a month ago, minimal adjustment.
So is this pretty much par for the course given that use or are the changes telling me something that I am not getting?
Ball joints as original 55k miles don't see any play there, I did replace RR wheel bearing, now that I think of it & the UCA bolts were taken off for new shocks & The shims were taped together & replaced as original. One other event was I had a "Vette Shop" replace the balancer, which he redid once, then I had to do again because he screwed the pooch on both tries.
Now that I type this all in I guess a lot has passed.
Phew.
Comments.
eg setup the alignment and measure, then drive around the block and re-measure it is very hard to get the same readings twice.
Toe in is the hardest to get the same reading twice.
When I do my DIY alignments I take the readings 3 times and average out the 3 reading.
This is the order I work with.
1. calibrate my tools
2. setup the tire presure to a standard reading. ( same as last time I did the alignment.)
3. set the wheels to the same position each time. I place the valve stem at the 6 oclock position. ( if your rims are not perfect your readings may vary if they are not in the same position)
4. Check the tire wear for symptoms of problems.
5. Check ride height at all 4 corners
6. take measurements and verify 3 times.
I have not yet got the same results ever.
Total Toe within 1/32th at best and varies by 1/16th
Camber +/- .2 degrees. usually with-in 0 - .1 degrees.
If outside of this range I usually have found something has come loose and the adjustment has moved. I have vbandp camber struts and tie rod sleeves.
What tools are your using to measure the alignment ?
06-02-2014, 05:33 AM
#10
One thing to consider is if the tires are not placed on some form or another of slip plates that move LATERALLY results will never be consistent or correct for that matter. The difference in track width from full droop to UNBOUND static ride height is significant. What that means is without the proper slip plates, as mentioned above, the suspension is never at the correct ride height when alignments and corner weight are performed if it is ever raised and lowered back down.
06-02-2014, 08:08 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
One thing to consider is if the tires are not placed on some form or another of slip plates that move LATERALLY results will never be consistent or correct for that matter. The difference in track width from full droop to UNBOUND static ride height is significant. What that means is without the proper slip plates, as mentioned above, the suspension is never at the correct ride height when alignments and corner weight are performed if it is ever raised and lowered back down.
Another confounding issue in alignments can be bound up poly bushings that stick and alter ride height. When I was running poly, I could lift the car by hand and increase ride height by 1/4" on that corner. Here is a case where driving the car before measuring it is better than slip plates or just rolling the car back and forth.
06-02-2014, 01:42 PM
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
With any alignment if the tools used to measure do not get setup the same way all your readings will vary.
eg setup the alignment and measure, then drive around the block and re-measure it is very hard to get the same readings twice.
Toe in is the hardest to get the same reading twice.
When I do my DIY alignments I take the readings 3 times and average out the 3 reading.
This is the order I work with.
1. calibrate my tools
2. setup the tire presure to a standard reading. ( same as last time I did the alignment.)
3. set the wheels to the same position each time. I place the valve stem at the 6 oclock position. ( if your rims are not perfect your readings may vary if they are not in the same position)
4. Check the tire wear for symptoms of problems.
5. Check ride height at all 4 corners
6. take measurements and verify 3 times.
I have not yet got the same results ever.
Total Toe within 1/32th at best and varies by 1/16th
Camber +/- .2 degrees. usually with-in 0 - .1 degrees.
If outside of this range I usually have found something has come loose and the adjustment has moved. I have vbandp camber struts and tie rod sleeves.
What tools are your using to measure the alignment ?
eg setup the alignment and measure, then drive around the block and re-measure it is very hard to get the same readings twice.
Toe in is the hardest to get the same reading twice.
When I do my DIY alignments I take the readings 3 times and average out the 3 reading.
This is the order I work with.
1. calibrate my tools
2. setup the tire presure to a standard reading. ( same as last time I did the alignment.)
3. set the wheels to the same position each time. I place the valve stem at the 6 oclock position. ( if your rims are not perfect your readings may vary if they are not in the same position)
4. Check the tire wear for symptoms of problems.
5. Check ride height at all 4 corners
6. take measurements and verify 3 times.
I have not yet got the same results ever.
Total Toe within 1/32th at best and varies by 1/16th
Camber +/- .2 degrees. usually with-in 0 - .1 degrees.
If outside of this range I usually have found something has come loose and the adjustment has moved. I have vbandp camber struts and tie rod sleeves.
What tools are your using to measure the alignment ?
My last (week) alignment I am very pleased with.
I will take note of your rim indexing suggestion, very smart, my rims are quite true so far as I can tell.
Thanks, if you like watch my 2 alignment videos one camber & one toe and see if you have any issues with how I do it.
They are below see link.
06-02-2014, 08:37 PM
#13
Smart camber & Smart strings. I calibrate the camber every time I use it. I agree that if the car moves, your readings change, really no getting around that with production car build vs F1 type build.
My last (week) alignment I am very pleased with.
I will take note of your rim indexing suggestion, very smart, my rims are quite true so far as I can tell.
Thanks, if you like watch my 2 alignment videos one camber & one toe and see if you have any issues with how I do it.
They are below see link.
My last (week) alignment I am very pleased with.
I will take note of your rim indexing suggestion, very smart, my rims are quite true so far as I can tell.
Thanks, if you like watch my 2 alignment videos one camber & one toe and see if you have any issues with how I do it.
They are below see link.
I am using this
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...%a2+LW+Adapter
The digital gauge allows the unit to be zero'd to allow for a none level surface. This only saves time for setup. Your procedure for camber measurement is similar due to the fact we both have similar gauges. The only additional step I take is I take one reading with the car facing forward and the next time take a reading with the car facing backwards. If the method is correct and you allow for any variance in slope you should get the same reading. If not something is out of calibration.
For caster its hard to get good measurements because its hard to measure 15 degree's left and right on some cars. My 1978 corvette I just measure caster from full left to full right and make sure they are with-in .1 degrees. Then check at half turn both ways. (just maximize the best I can) On my 2010 grandsport I connect my scan tool and read the steering wheel sensor to get the correct setting. My caster gauge has a mode to read the numbers. once you turn to the left, zero the meter, turn to the right and read the numbers.
As for your toe method, I gave up on strings. Way to much time to setup and get consistant measurements. Its hard to be accurate where the setup is impossible to be the same each time. Also the distance you are measuring at is to small. I am using laser levels on the wheels to measure where they are pointing at. I have a bar at the front and back of the car with a mm scale and record where the beam is pointing. Then calculate all the angles on a excel spreadsheet. Strings do work, but take up to much time to setup and measure. To take measurements from my car I am down to 8 pictures I need to take. Set the camera on a 10 second delay so I can hold the level to the wheel. Take 1 picture toward the front and 1 toward the back. Total time for setup is 60 seconds to place the rules at all 4 wheels. Measure the distance between the bars to make sure its square and 180 seconds to take 8 pictures. Then plug the numbers in my spread sheet. Total about 5-10 minutes to take all the toes measurements. Another 5 minutes for camber / caster. Totally done in 15 minutes.
Adjusting is another issue. That can take some time. Here are a few pictures of my setup.
The only import setup is to calibrate the laser level, THEY ARE NOT PERFECTLY LEVEL, some point higher or lower than a perfect 90 degrees. I measure the error rate and add the calculations in the spreadsheet to allow for error.
A picture of the beam. ( note the actual placement of the measuring bar doesn't matter because its all relative in a x-y plot.)
Setup of the bars and measuring bar. I used 48" rules because they are all the same length and $5 each. You can use any equal length measuring sticks. the longer they are the more acturate the readings can be.
Picture showing how I would hold the laser level to the rim. The picture shows it strapped with bungi cords but I hold this my self when I take pictures of the readings so I can move quickly around the car. I place each ruler so they just touch each tire. This allows for the front and read bars to be vary close to square (povided the tire pressure is equal side to side, and tire wear is similar). If you cannot get the same measurement bar to bar left and right side then your car / frame may also not be square, tire pressure,tire wear etc.
This is the spreadsheet I plug the numbers into. The Dark Green Boxes are the readings of the front tire readings, the light green numbers are corrected numbers for the error of the laser level. Dark red are the rear wheels.
Last edited by cagotzmann; 06-02-2014 at 08:58 PM.
06-02-2014, 09:12 PM
#14
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks for a well documented post.
My camber gauge is pretty much the same as yours, yes it can be set for non level procedure, but I have found (yay) a dead level (4) spots (side to side) so no need.
I agree it takes a long time to set the strings, but I like them as the thin string I use can be read down to 32 nds and I even split the string (with my eye) to get close to 64 th's on a machinest ruler.
The laser light seems to be a little wide to read that fine but that may be just how the picture looks.
The important thing is good results however you do your measuring.
My spreadsheet is pen and paper.
My car was on rails yesterday until the last run where I proceeded to loop it, had to stand on my third run which was good enough.
Thanks all!
My camber gauge is pretty much the same as yours, yes it can be set for non level procedure, but I have found (yay) a dead level (4) spots (side to side) so no need.
I agree it takes a long time to set the strings, but I like them as the thin string I use can be read down to 32 nds and I even split the string (with my eye) to get close to 64 th's on a machinest ruler.
The laser light seems to be a little wide to read that fine but that may be just how the picture looks.
The important thing is good results however you do your measuring.
My spreadsheet is pen and paper.
My car was on rails yesterday until the last run where I proceeded to loop it, had to stand on my third run which was good enough.
Thanks all!
Does your camber gauge allow to be zero'd after calibation ?
I am using this
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...%a2+LW+Adapter
The digital gauge allows the unit to be zero'd to allow for a none level surface. This only saves time for setup. Your procedure for camber measurement is similar due to the fact we both have similar gauges. The only additional step I take is I take one reading with the car facing forward and the next time take a reading with the car facing backwards. If the method is correct and you allow for any variance in slope you should get the same reading. If not something is out of calibration.
For caster its hard to get good measurements because its hard to measure 15 degree's left and right on some cars. My 1978 corvette I just measure caster from full left to full right and make sure they are with-in .1 degrees. Then check at half turn both ways. (just maximize the best I can) On my 2010 grandsport I connect my scan tool and read the steering wheel sensor to get the correct setting. My caster gauge has a mode to read the numbers. once you turn to the left, zero the meter, turn to the right and read the numbers.
As for your toe method, I gave up on strings. Way to much time to setup and get consistant measurements. Its hard to be accurate where the setup is impossible to be the same each time. Also the distance you are measuring at is to small. I am using laser levels on the wheels to measure where they are pointing at. I have a bar at the front and back of the car with a mm scale and record where the beam is pointing. Then calculate all the angles on a excel spreadsheet. Strings do work, but take up to much time to setup and measure. To take measurements from my car I am down to 8 pictures I need to take. Set the camera on a 10 second delay so I can hold the level to the wheel. Take 1 picture toward the front and 1 toward the back. Total time for setup is 60 seconds to place the rules at all 4 wheels. Measure the distance between the bars to make sure its square and 180 seconds to take 8 pictures. Then plug the numbers in my spread sheet. Total about 5-10 minutes to take all the toes measurements. Another 5 minutes for camber / caster. Totally done in 15 minutes.
Adjusting is another issue. That can take some time. Here are a few pictures of my setup.
The only import setup is to calibrate the laser level, THEY ARE NOT PERFECTLY LEVEL, some point higher or lower than a perfect 90 degrees. I measure the error rate and add the calculations in the spreadsheet to allow for error.
A picture of the beam. ( note the actual placement of the measuring bar doesn't matter because its all relative in a x-y plot.)
Setup of the bars and measuring bar. I used 48" rules because they are all the same length and $5 each. You can use any equal length measuring sticks. the longer they are the more acturate the readings can be.
Picture showing how I would hold the laser level to the rim. The picture shows it strapped with bungi cords but I hold this my self when I take pictures of the readings so I can move quickly around the car. I place each ruler so they just touch each tire. This allows for the front and read bars to be vary close to square (povided the tire pressure is equal side to side, and tire wear is similar). If you cannot get the same measurement bar to bar left and right side then your car / frame may also not be square, tire pressure,tire wear etc.
This is the spreadsheet I plug the numbers into. The Dark Green Boxes are the readings of the front tire readings, the light green numbers are corrected numbers for the error of the laser level. Dark red are the rear wheels.
I am using this
http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...%a2+LW+Adapter
The digital gauge allows the unit to be zero'd to allow for a none level surface. This only saves time for setup. Your procedure for camber measurement is similar due to the fact we both have similar gauges. The only additional step I take is I take one reading with the car facing forward and the next time take a reading with the car facing backwards. If the method is correct and you allow for any variance in slope you should get the same reading. If not something is out of calibration.
For caster its hard to get good measurements because its hard to measure 15 degree's left and right on some cars. My 1978 corvette I just measure caster from full left to full right and make sure they are with-in .1 degrees. Then check at half turn both ways. (just maximize the best I can) On my 2010 grandsport I connect my scan tool and read the steering wheel sensor to get the correct setting. My caster gauge has a mode to read the numbers. once you turn to the left, zero the meter, turn to the right and read the numbers.
As for your toe method, I gave up on strings. Way to much time to setup and get consistant measurements. Its hard to be accurate where the setup is impossible to be the same each time. Also the distance you are measuring at is to small. I am using laser levels on the wheels to measure where they are pointing at. I have a bar at the front and back of the car with a mm scale and record where the beam is pointing. Then calculate all the angles on a excel spreadsheet. Strings do work, but take up to much time to setup and measure. To take measurements from my car I am down to 8 pictures I need to take. Set the camera on a 10 second delay so I can hold the level to the wheel. Take 1 picture toward the front and 1 toward the back. Total time for setup is 60 seconds to place the rules at all 4 wheels. Measure the distance between the bars to make sure its square and 180 seconds to take 8 pictures. Then plug the numbers in my spread sheet. Total about 5-10 minutes to take all the toes measurements. Another 5 minutes for camber / caster. Totally done in 15 minutes.
Adjusting is another issue. That can take some time. Here are a few pictures of my setup.
The only import setup is to calibrate the laser level, THEY ARE NOT PERFECTLY LEVEL, some point higher or lower than a perfect 90 degrees. I measure the error rate and add the calculations in the spreadsheet to allow for error.
A picture of the beam. ( note the actual placement of the measuring bar doesn't matter because its all relative in a x-y plot.)
Setup of the bars and measuring bar. I used 48" rules because they are all the same length and $5 each. You can use any equal length measuring sticks. the longer they are the more acturate the readings can be.
Picture showing how I would hold the laser level to the rim. The picture shows it strapped with bungi cords but I hold this my self when I take pictures of the readings so I can move quickly around the car. I place each ruler so they just touch each tire. This allows for the front and read bars to be vary close to square (povided the tire pressure is equal side to side, and tire wear is similar). If you cannot get the same measurement bar to bar left and right side then your car / frame may also not be square, tire pressure,tire wear etc.
This is the spreadsheet I plug the numbers into. The Dark Green Boxes are the readings of the front tire readings, the light green numbers are corrected numbers for the error of the laser level. Dark red are the rear wheels.
06-02-2014, 09:28 PM
#15
Thanks for a well documented post.
My camber gauge is pretty much the same as yours, yes it can be set for non level procedure, but I have found (yay) a dead level (4) spots (side to side) so no need.
I agree it takes a long time to set the strings, but I like them as the thin string I use can be read down to 32 nds and I even split the string (with my eye) to get close to 64 th's on a machinest ruler.
The laser light seems to be a little wide to read that fine but that may be just how the picture looks.
The important thing is good results however you do your measuring.
My spreadsheet is pen and paper.
My car was on rails yesterday until the last run where I proceeded to loop it, had to stand on my third run which was good enough.
Thanks all!
My camber gauge is pretty much the same as yours, yes it can be set for non level procedure, but I have found (yay) a dead level (4) spots (side to side) so no need.
I agree it takes a long time to set the strings, but I like them as the thin string I use can be read down to 32 nds and I even split the string (with my eye) to get close to 64 th's on a machinest ruler.
The laser light seems to be a little wide to read that fine but that may be just how the picture looks.
The important thing is good results however you do your measuring.
My spreadsheet is pen and paper.
My car was on rails yesterday until the last run where I proceeded to loop it, had to stand on my third run which was good enough.
Thanks all!
I read as 658. Helps with photoshop to zoom in and place a vertical rule to see. I cannot see very well, glasses are not thick enough. Ha Ha
eg a reading change of 700 vs 700.5 is a change of .0071 vs .0059 change of .0012 degrees this is imposible to read on any ruler.
Have you tried backing in the car to read camber to see if you get the same results ?
I am taking my car in on Friday to have it measured on a alignment rack and see how this compares to my readings. Cost $32 to get a print out. But this will confirm the process works.
Last edited by cagotzmann; 06-02-2014 at 09:35 PM.
06-03-2014, 12:34 AM
#16
Race Director
Thread Starter
The laser does read wide the further away it gets but with pictures you can zoom in and read within +/- .5 mm, but when you translate that to the angle of the line you actually get readings much better due to the distance the measuring bar is from the laser.
I read as 658. Helps with photoshop to zoom in and place a vertical rule to see. I cannot see very well, glasses are not thick enough. Ha Ha
eg a reading change of 700 vs 700.5 is a change of .0071 vs .0059 change of .0012 degrees this is imposible to read on any ruler.
Have you tried backing in the car to read camber to see if you get the same results ?
I am taking my car in on Friday to have it measured on a alignment rack and see how this compares to my readings. Cost $32 to get a print out. But this will confirm the process works.
I read as 658. Helps with photoshop to zoom in and place a vertical rule to see. I cannot see very well, glasses are not thick enough. Ha Ha
eg a reading change of 700 vs 700.5 is a change of .0071 vs .0059 change of .0012 degrees this is imposible to read on any ruler.
Have you tried backing in the car to read camber to see if you get the same results ?
I am taking my car in on Friday to have it measured on a alignment rack and see how this compares to my readings. Cost $32 to get a print out. But this will confirm the process works.
No I never turn the car around & remeasure. I KNOW the readings will change just from driving the car thru the street drain "gutter" at the end of the driveway. And I don't want to start chasing my tail over .1 degree change. I've been doing this a while. I go by my results (on the track - wins) and tire wear (of course I have severe tire wear but you can still see if side to side it's ok unless the track effect is bad).
Thanks again great discussion.
06-03-2014, 09:30 AM
#17
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
We typically do a setup and setdown. So the car is done prior to the event (any changes during the event documented) and finally a set down at the end of the weekend. Typically a good way to see if anything got hit, bent, broken, or to confirm any odd handling issues reported during a race.
06-03-2014, 11:22 PM
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
We typically do a setup and setdown. So the car is done prior to the event (any changes during the event documented) and finally a set down at the end of the weekend. Typically a good way to see if anything got hit, bent, broken, or to confirm any odd handling issues reported during a race.
I need to do that.
I have been doing setup, notes on event, drink beer.
That's where I went wrong!
06-06-2014, 10:43 PM
#19
I did mine today & the before was sort of a surprise. RF corner gained .4 degrees of neg camber.
Both front corners were slightly toe IN, I had it set at ZERO toe.
LR had kept it's neg. setting but RR gained .25 neg.
2 years since previous alignment
3-4 track days (minimal curbs) and about 40 autox.
Pfadt camber kit all around. 10k street miles.
I did corner weight it about a month ago, minimal adjustment.
So is this pretty much par for the course given that use or are the changes telling me something that I am not getting?
Ball joints as original 55k miles don't see any play there, I did replace RR wheel bearing, now that I think of it & the UCA bolts were taken off for new shocks & The shims were taped together & replaced as original. One other event was I had a "Vette Shop" replace the balancer, which he redid once, then I had to do again because he screwed the pooch on both tries.
Now that I type this all in I guess a lot has passed.
Phew.
Comments.
Both front corners were slightly toe IN, I had it set at ZERO toe.
LR had kept it's neg. setting but RR gained .25 neg.
2 years since previous alignment
3-4 track days (minimal curbs) and about 40 autox.
Pfadt camber kit all around. 10k street miles.
I did corner weight it about a month ago, minimal adjustment.
So is this pretty much par for the course given that use or are the changes telling me something that I am not getting?
Ball joints as original 55k miles don't see any play there, I did replace RR wheel bearing, now that I think of it & the UCA bolts were taken off for new shocks & The shims were taped together & replaced as original. One other event was I had a "Vette Shop" replace the balancer, which he redid once, then I had to do again because he screwed the pooch on both tries.
Now that I type this all in I guess a lot has passed.
Phew.
Comments.
vs
Seems they had the steering pointing to the right slightly when they took measurements. but
their measured total toe front = 0.09 degree's ( toe in )
my measurement total toe front = -0.05 ( i use - for toe in )
rear their measurment = 0.28 degrees ( toe in )
my measurement = -.29 ( - for toe in )
camber measurements
Right rear my measurement ( their's = -0.9 ) biggest error ???? mine -1.2
Right front ( theirs = -0.9 ) mine -0.9
Left front ( theirs = -1.0) mine -1.0
Left Rear ( theirs = -1.2) mine = -1.1
So overall I am happy that my DIY alignment can work out.
Last edited by cagotzmann; 06-06-2014 at 11:08 PM.
06-07-2014, 12:41 AM
#20
Race Director
Thread Starter
The thing that makes me stay away from those places is "specified range".
The specified range, is like, when I was in competitive shooting, you hit the broad side of a barn door same as bullseye.
What a sham.
Or you stand there & say NO that's not good enough.
Congrats on a system that works.
The specified range, is like, when I was in competitive shooting, you hit the broad side of a barn door same as bullseye.
What a sham.
Or you stand there & say NO that's not good enough.
Congrats on a system that works.