TGiuliante

Hey guys. Thank you for the responses. I wound up replcing the discs in my quartermaster clutch. Car is doing the same thing when I get into fourth gear ot fifth RPMs around 4grand and I lay into the throttle my rpms jump like im slipping on oil but I do not feel wheel spin. What could this be?

I am tempted to replace the clutch but disks are new so it should functions as it should. not sure what to do.

What do you think

redtopz

Who installed the clutch? The first thing I would check is to make sure you have space between the throwout bearing face and the clutch springs with the clutch pedal released. You should be able to freely spin the end of the throwout bearing with the clutch released (ie. no preload on the clutch springs).

3X2

Are you about this? I may be wrong, but, I don't think it is possible to have clearance so the the bearing spins freely. If that was the case then the bearing would be fully extended (as when the slave is on the torque tube prior to installing it into the bellhousing) and wouldn't have any stroke to release the clutch. The fingers need to compress the slave spring so the piston can move forward when pushing on the clutch pedal.
As far as the QM slipping, my experience with this style of clutch is that it is an "on/off" switch. Does not like to be slipped if you drive it like you would drive a normal type clutch. Most likely the discs and floater plates are worn and/or hot spotted. We've had good luck with Exedy's exe-gt04xd clutch.

LateBreak

He's saying no preload on the clutch spring, not on the TOB spring. Yes, the TOB will be compressed, but you should be able to spin the TOB when it's in contact with the clutch. What redtopz is saying is that the TOB shouldn't be fully bottomed out to the point that the clutch fingers are depressed at all.

This would be an easy thing to check with the inspection cover off. You can also have a helper work the clutch pedal to make sure that the TOB has some very slight visible movement before the clutch fingers do, if that makes sense?

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

While this shows for a different style bellhousing the measurements are still the same. You need to check with Quartermaster on what they want to see as free play.

http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/u...lic-Clutch.pdf

http://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/u...Series-HRB.pdf


Also if you don't have one, you need a clutch pedal stop. You can just as easily damage the clutch by over extending the pressure plate which can cause it to loose grip or just fail all together.


Not only measuring each disk is important but also measuring the total stack height and where that puts the location of the lever arms on the flywheel. It is not uncommon for a new clutch to slip slightly until it seats in and the fingers move upwards giving you more clamping force.....not saying that is what it is...but it can happen. Typically they have their highest clamp force about 1/2 life.

Quartermaster and Tilton are not self adjusting clutches, and they need room. As they wear the finger move outwards....see above, and will take up the free play. That is typically why they start to slip, it's like riding your foot on the pedal.


Lastly...as to how it engages....material makes the biggest difference. Metallic clutches are on-off switches. The carbon ones are typically much easier to drive. Taking weight off of the clutch makes it rev must faster but at the same point you lost a ton of stored energy so you have to make more torque to get it moving (more throttle input).

JDIllon

I have had my RPS carbon BC2 in now for 3 months, and love it!!! It is so much better than my Excedy ever was. Even with the aluminum flywheel it is very streetable. And much smoother than my old clutch. I am also putting about 525HP to the rear wheels. Just My .02 JD