Mjolitor 68

So I had a little Oops w my Z06 @ Homestead while practicing. Tire blew @ 120+ in the banking and stuffed me into the wall. Lucky Inhad my HANS, Racing suit etc on. Car isn't too bad just needs new front right suspension, brakes & body.

I'm fine, nothing broken, no head ache just stiff & sore neck, traps, ribs, & knee.

Meanwhile I plan on using my 67 race car as my practice ride. It's pretty far from a DP but it's what I got easily available.

Plan on adding power steering now how do I make it stick like my 06 Z06 ?

Thanks

Mjolitor 68

Poor baby got a nasty Booboo 😥

Mjolitor 68

Really?!? Nobody's got anything to share ?

BFoster

Not much to offer other than I love your mid-year racer! I've always wanted something similar!

As far as the handling, etc, good luck getting it to stick. At all. I remember reading an article a year or two ago talking about how the C1/C2/C3 cars actually created lift at speed. I'm sure that is one of the reasons you see the vintage racers sliding around the corners. It sure is entertaining to watch!

I used to run a C3 racer that did not handle well, so I found myself using the throttle to turn the car, even at speed. It wouldn't stop either, so you really had to be off the gas way early. It was totally different to drive as I'm sure you've found with that car in the past!

Charley Hoyt

Ouch! Glad you are alright. If you are looking for a good practice car to use between events with your Prototype, perhaps something like a Radical would be good? Obviously they don't have the power of a prototype, but the downforce makes them a lot of fun to drive.

Gordy M

The closest you can make the C2 to handle like a C6 would be to b\get the VBP full suspension kit. Then do an alignment and run 2.5 deg neg camber front and back. If you have problems with getting camber in the front, remove the stock bolts holding the UCA and insert longer ones. This also helps in setting caster.
HTH

DaveL82

You should also put C3 in your thread title as the chassis is basically the same. May also try posting in that section. Also Bossco posts in here but he is building a tube frame car.

My C3 is slowly evolving into a track only car but taking a long time. Will never be a C5/C6/C7 but will still make a fun and capable track car.

First thing is to do a search for old C2 and C3 race chassis mods. The roll bar (cage if you can) helps a lot to stiffen the chassis and you need the front strut brace.

Replace all rubber bushings and if keeping the rear trailing arm go with the mod changing the front rubber bushing to a mono-ball or other type of bearing.

Some people run the jeep type power steering box to get a new box in the car and delete power steering ram and hoses. You will need to strengthen the frame in the box mounting area as this moves the stress to that part of the frame.

Ride-tech seems to have some good stuff and Van Steel also has up to date suspension stuff.

Me I gutted the rear of mine and built an a-arm suspension. A lot of work!

Bill Dearborn

I know a guy who autocrosses a 66 Vert. He changes the alignment while at the event and has been competitive for FTD at all of the events I attended over the last 25 years (including single seat open cockpit formula cars). The cars can be made to handle and handle well. He has been autocrossing that car since the early 70s so has a lot of experience with what works and what doesn't work. His biggest issue over the last couple of years has been getting enough HP to compete against modern cars.

Bill

LateBreak

The rear suspension geometry is pretty sketchy on the C2 due to the half-shafts being treated as a link, lots of bumpsteer. When running a C3, we ended up with about 1/2" of static toe-in in the rear in order to keep the outside wheel from turning out in compression/roll for predictable cornering. I'd look at a 5-link or similar system to try and avoid the factory shortcomings.

The front suspension is more conventional so it's not 'as bad', but the bumpsteer for example required ~1" blocks to correct it. In terms of upgrades, steel or delrin bushings are always a help, and I'd have some work over the geometry.

MelWff

read this link
http://www.duntovmotors.com/Corvette...wer%20Book.pdf

63Corvette

Glad to hear that you were not injured.
A C2 will never "stick like a C6 Z06"! First, you must decide what sanctioning organization you are going to race with, and then ensure that your car complies with their preparation regulations. As mentioned above, I recommend that you read and understand the directions shown in the GM Power book as posted on the Duntov Motors website. I recommend that you have the Duntov Motors people prepare your race car to the proper specifications. It will be a safe and reliable platform for you and they will provide exceptional support for your racing. You should prepare for and expect "consistent" handling. The biggest difference between now and "period" is tires. The modern tire sticks so much better that your chassis stiffness is paramount to good handling, so a properly engineered and installed rollcage is your best handling tool. Next is that modern engine preparation will provide several multiples of the horsepower which was available frrom the same displacement back in Period. Finally, your attitude needs to be adjusted to comlply with the Vintage Mototsports Council requirement that the "Cars are the Stars". Vintage racing is about the cars, and it is NOT a stepping stone series to a car racing career. Best of luck to you.

Mjolitor 68

Thanks for the advice. 67 is making her debut w me at the Lime Rock Vintage weekend Labor Day.
After that I'll run her in HSR & on track days to keep my driving sharp till my 70 IMSA Is ready

BrianCunningham

So

M: DP Car
T: C6
W: C2
T: C3

What do you drive on Friday?

jstewart10

He will drive this one on Friday i think: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-begins.html

Speaking of the gtp - how is the restoration going?

Mjolitor 68

GTP getting same sequential box as DP. Not period correct but won't blow up every race.

Hope to run her at Daytona in Nov

As for other days of week there's the Aventador, Ford GT,
60 Caddy convert, & 67 Jag E type

mr.beachcomber

I guess that I'm a "vintage" racer given the fact that I raced C2's and C3's in the SCCA's B Production classes back in the day. I can tell you from experience that the C2 body style has a lot of lift and plenty of drag in the stock form. I see that you have a requisite front spoiler to keep the front end down; however, I didn't see any brake ducts for the stock, cast iron heat sinks, er, calipers. If you're running the stock, 4-piston, cast irons calipers, I would recommend adding ducts for the front calipers as well as changing over the caliper's pistons to the first, earlier design that used insulators on the piston end contacting the brake pad. Also, I would recommend changing over to the J56-type pads (two cotter pins for each pad rather than a central bolt holding the pads in place).

The Chevy Power reprint is pretty much the way Chevrolet recommended prepping our Vettes. Just realize that the two struts bracing the rear birdcage flyover for the rear wheels was standard on 1968 up chassis to control the amount of chassis flex on BBC equipped Vettes. I recommend that you add these braces as well. One or two things about the reprint that I would caution about. The first is the recommendation to use DOT 5 silicone fluid. This was in reference to the fact that water-contaminated brake fluid wrecked havoc on the cast iron piston bores (prior to the advent of stainless steel inserts). The problem with DOT 5 is that although it eliminates moisture absorption, it has a tendency to trap air in the fluid. When subjected to heavy braking, the air tends to expand and collapse repeatedly giving unpredictable braking responses. Another item is the suspension spring recommendation in the reprint. I used the Daytona setup on all my Vettes. It is stiff to the point that on rough tracks, I could launch the rear end airborne just by hitting a rough patch. I concur with the recommendation to contact Vette Brakes & Products regarding your planned suspension changes. Especially shocks which were less than optimal in my day.

As far as adding power steering, you may need to enlarge the return line orifice to "deaden" the steering response and avoid high speed shimmy due to inadvertent driver input while driving over bumps and rough track areas. I used the old worm gear in my C2. Turning the Vette at speed required lots of muscle. (I still grab the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position with the hand on the side I'm turning to to provide additional leverage in the turn. Force of habit I guess!)

I agree with 63Corvette, that unless you just plan to run HPDE-type events, check with the organization you plan to run with for their rules and allowances. I would prefer SVRA as they tend to allow the Vettes to be prepped to the level consistent with the way we ran them rather than some other organizations that allow 383's, six speeds, and other items we never had.

Most of all, accept the fact that a C2 isn't going to stick like a Z06 and have fun!

analyte

Ridetech has a C2 project car so maybe a call to them will be worthwhile. I know they have parts for that vintage as well so you'll have options if nothing else.

Kerry

0chase@ridetech

We have a bolt-on kit that will make it handle. We have done several autocross events with our C2, but a better Comparison would be our 48 Hour Corvette C3. The frames are nearly identical from C2 to C3. The only important difference is tire size without modification. The C3 is capable of a much wider tire without modification.

Check out our 48 Hour Corvette:
http://www.ridetech.com/48hourcorvette/

0chase@ridetech

Here are the front and rear bolt on kits:

63Corvette

I don't dispute that your very nice hardware might "make your C2 handle", BUT I don't believe that it meets the requirements for Vintage racing in production (rather than modified) categories.