need help bedding race pads ( used)
10-25-2015, 02:12 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
need help bedding race pads ( used)
got a set of used raybestos st43 padlets front and rear for my c6z06, padlets have 9mm left in them (i think new is 10mm)
i will be using these on the street
i currently have DBA 4000 t3 slotted rotors with hawk hps pads, rotors and pads are nearly new, i will pull the hawk hps pads and replace them with st43 for street driving
my question is how do i bedd/burnish st43 pads to my current rotors
i will be using these on the street
i currently have DBA 4000 t3 slotted rotors with hawk hps pads, rotors and pads are nearly new, i will pull the hawk hps pads and replace them with st43 for street driving
my question is how do i bedd/burnish st43 pads to my current rotors
10-25-2015, 02:22 PM
#2
Pads, especially race pads, dont like to bed over a different type of pad. You should consider turning the rotors first. Also, the ST43 isn't going to get to operating temperature on the street. So the stopping power will be pretty low most of the time.
If this is just for street, I would consider a lower temp pad.
If this is just for street, I would consider a lower temp pad.
10-25-2015, 03:08 PM
#3
Pro
Pads, especially race pads, dont like to bed over a different type of pad. You should consider turning the rotors first. Also, the ST43 isn't going to get to operating temperature on the street. So the stopping power will be pretty low most of the time.
If this is just for street, I would consider a lower temp pad.
If this is just for street, I would consider a lower temp pad.
HPS pads are great for the street. ST43s would likely be a downgrade due to cold temp performance (not to mention the increased squealing and dust). I'd save the 43s in case you decide to do a track weekend down the road.
10-25-2015, 11:32 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
I'm upgrading to st-60 set up, got some street carbotech 1521 front and rear and some race carbotech xp10 front and rear that I'm getting off. Once you bed in the 1521, you don't have to re bed the xp10. Don't know how stuck you ar on your current pad.
Now to answer your question, I went from hawk to carbotech and didn't turn the rotors and it stopped like crap. I took the rotors off and resurfaced them with some sand paper and elbo grease and they worked great. If you have good newish rotors get them turned. If not get some brake cleaner and sandpaper and resurface them. If you do your own labor- sandpaper!
Now to answer your question, I went from hawk to carbotech and didn't turn the rotors and it stopped like crap. I took the rotors off and resurfaced them with some sand paper and elbo grease and they worked great. If you have good newish rotors get them turned. If not get some brake cleaner and sandpaper and resurface them. If you do your own labor- sandpaper!
10-26-2015, 09:17 AM
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
I'm upgrading to st-60 set up, got some street carbotech 1521 front and rear and some race carbotech xp10 front and rear that I'm getting off. Once you bed in the 1521, you don't have to re bed the xp10. Don't know how stuck you ar on your current pad.
Now to answer your question, I went from hawk to carbotech and didn't turn the rotors and it stopped like crap. I took the rotors off and resurfaced them with some sand paper and elbo grease and they worked great. If you have good newish rotors get them turned. If not get some brake cleaner and sandpaper and resurface them. If you do your own labor- sandpaper!
Now to answer your question, I went from hawk to carbotech and didn't turn the rotors and it stopped like crap. I took the rotors off and resurfaced them with some sand paper and elbo grease and they worked great. If you have good newish rotors get them turned. If not get some brake cleaner and sandpaper and resurface them. If you do your own labor- sandpaper!
10-26-2015, 09:38 AM
#6
Racer
I've used medium grit emery cloth to get the old transfer layer off of rotors. I wouldn't get them "turned" as that reduces the size of your heat sink.
Also, as to the pad compound and using it on the street: IMO, it's massive overkill for the street and probably a worse option than whatever is on the car right now. It's also an aggressive enough compound that you can pretty easily overwhelm the tires unless you're running the top-end 200TW stuff at the very least. I put ST-43's on my C5Z then drove from FL to MI and ran them for a track weekend... when cold they squeaked and squealed constantly. Pedal feel and bite was just fine (ambient temps above 60-70 the whole time) but they assault your ears during around town driving. Additionally, I expect that you'll run into excessive wear of the pad and/or the rotor due to operating the pads outside their intended range.
Having said that, it's your car so
Also, as to the pad compound and using it on the street: IMO, it's massive overkill for the street and probably a worse option than whatever is on the car right now. It's also an aggressive enough compound that you can pretty easily overwhelm the tires unless you're running the top-end 200TW stuff at the very least. I put ST-43's on my C5Z then drove from FL to MI and ran them for a track weekend... when cold they squeaked and squealed constantly. Pedal feel and bite was just fine (ambient temps above 60-70 the whole time) but they assault your ears during around town driving. Additionally, I expect that you'll run into excessive wear of the pad and/or the rotor due to operating the pads outside their intended range.
Having said that, it's your car so
10-26-2015, 01:51 PM
#8
easy way to remove transfer layer..... ready..... wash the car, let the rotors rust. let is sit for a day. then go bead the new pads in. pads like raybestus you should only need to get them hot. do a 30-10, 40-10, 60-10, repeat a 60-10 3 times, all hard stops
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MUKAK (10-26-2015)
10-26-2015, 01:56 PM
#9
Race Director
Thread Starter
another question for you, some ppl say St43 are ok on the street and some say NO WAY, what do you think? i dont mind them being a little noisy
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Johnny C @ OG (10-26-2015)
10-26-2015, 02:05 PM
#10
a little story of race pads on the street. I did street drive PFC 01 compounds, hell still do. if the ambient air temp is over 70* i never notice any difference. 50* you could tell when the pads where hot and when they where cold. much more torque but still some tq when they where cold. under 30* i almost crashed in my driveway. i put the car into reverse, pulled out, hit the brakes, car didn't slow at all. almost rolled into cars parked across the street. once i got going i quickly dragged the pedal and they where fine the rest of the way to work. :P
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MUKAK (10-26-2015)
10-26-2015, 02:18 PM
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
all depends on when they start working. i have no experience with raybestus on the street.
a little story of race pads on the street. I did street drive PFC 01 compounds, hell still do. if the ambient air temp is over 70* i never notice any difference. 50* you could tell when the pads where hot and when they where cold. much more torque but still some tq when they where cold. under 30* i almost crashed in my driveway. i put the car into reverse, pulled out, hit the brakes, car didn't slow at all. almost rolled into cars parked across the street. once i got going i quickly dragged the pedal and they where fine the rest of the way to work. :P
a little story of race pads on the street. I did street drive PFC 01 compounds, hell still do. if the ambient air temp is over 70* i never notice any difference. 50* you could tell when the pads where hot and when they where cold. much more torque but still some tq when they where cold. under 30* i almost crashed in my driveway. i put the car into reverse, pulled out, hit the brakes, car didn't slow at all. almost rolled into cars parked across the street. once i got going i quickly dragged the pedal and they where fine the rest of the way to work. :P
do u think its OK to just install them in the front and leave the HPSs in the back ? to see if they work on the street???
10-26-2015, 02:23 PM
#12
oh man. i can hear layers right now yelling at me to not answer that hahah.
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MUKAK (10-26-2015)
10-26-2015, 03:52 PM
#14
Drifting
If you just do regular street driving (which won't get the track pads up to operating temp), the track pads will effectively grind off the old transfer layer. Just swap the pads and drive the car like a normal person for a few days before bedding in the new pads.
10-26-2015, 06:13 PM
#15
Racer
Some pads are better (and worse) about grinding off the transfer layer. Despite having run the ST-43's for ~1600 miles, that was over the course of a couple days and I took them off immediately after the track day. It may be that the ST-43's aren't terrible WRT to the transfer layer... or they could be as bad as the Hawk Blue (which is truly awful at low temps).
10-30-2015, 11:14 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Tacoma, Wa/Surprise, Az
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I've been doing the Carbo tech dance, swapping between 1521's and XP10's for track days without bedding. When installing the XP10's, the rotors are amazingly quiet for the two hour drive to the track. Bedding at the track is nothing more than a couple of warm up laps before getting serious. During the ride home they get pretty noisy and by the time I'm home, I'm down to bare metal on the rotors and ready for the 1521s again.
120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper works great on rotors, the rotors are actually pretty soft. You'll be surprised how easy it is to remove the old transfer layer.
120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper works great on rotors, the rotors are actually pretty soft. You'll be surprised how easy it is to remove the old transfer layer.
10-30-2015, 11:37 PM
#17
I've been doing the Carbo tech dance, swapping between 1521's and XP10's for track days without bedding. When installing the XP10's, the rotors are amazingly quiet for the two hour drive to the track. Bedding at the track is nothing more than a couple of warm up laps before getting serious. During the ride home they get pretty noisy and by the time I'm home, I'm down to bare metal on the rotors and ready for the 1521s again.
120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper works great on rotors, the rotors are actually pretty soft. You'll be surprised how easy it is to remove the old transfer layer.
120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper works great on rotors, the rotors are actually pretty soft. You'll be surprised how easy it is to remove the old transfer layer.
To the OP: It's good to try things for yourself to see how the car reacts. Just be careful with cold race pads. Especially if they are wet.