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I have the aviad pan insert, aviad oil tank insert, and katech blue pump. If I had to do it over I would go with the red pump, it has a little higher pressure. I have like 50 pounds of pressure at idle and 60-70 at 6500 with the temps at 248. With 0w 40 M1.
I have the aviad pan insert, aviad oil tank insert, and katech blue pump. If I had to do it over I would go with the red pump, it has a little higher pressure. I have like 50 pounds of pressure at idle and 60-70 at 6500 with the temps at 248. With 0w 40 M1.
Curious to know how well the Aviaid baffles work for you! Building an LS7 now, that will see occasional track duty. The car already had the tank baffle, adding the pan baffle and ported stock pump.
Just to make sure... the Aviaid insert replaces the stock oil deflector? or is used in conjunction with the oil deflector?
Thanks!
Bulletproofing the oil system and keeping the AC are probably mutually exclusive... on my 08 I gave up the AC to run a Dailey system with ARE tank and spintric.
Save some money and just have stock pump ported
everything else looks good on your list
I have a ARe stage 2 and a Synergy Motorsports ported oil pump. Never have oiling issues. I had the katech red pump on last motor and this one has a lot better pressures.
Curious to know how well the Aviaid baffles work for you! Building an LS7 now, that will see occasional track duty. The car already had the tank baffle, adding the pan baffle and ported stock pump.
Just to make sure... the Aviaid insert replaces the stock oil deflector? or is used in conjunction with the oil deflector?
Thanks!
Not exactly sure what you are you talking about. The engine windage tray for the oil pan? The OEM windage tray stays installed without interference with the new pan baffle.
I just finished putting the expanded tank and sump and pan baffle in my car. Only have 1 track day on it so far, but it was more of a test. Stock oil pump on mine.
I have the full Aviaid system, including the auxiliary scavenge pump. I also have the Katech hi scavenge pump (blue).
I've wondered about excessive scavenge capacity...if that's even possible.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Bullet proof it, that would be a Daily system but you can not keep the A/C with their kits. Seriously though, the top of the line in dry sump kits.
There are a lot of different options out there and the ARE stuff has worked very well and they give you a lot of options when it comes to their offerings which we have used for well over a decade now.
If you have an early car (2006-2008) the single biggest issue is the tank itself. The car can drain the tank and keep all of the oil inside the engine causing issues keeping the mains happy so the tank should be looked at first in my opinion. ARE offers a drop in tank in a number of styles that offers not only a little more capacity but also better oil control which a lot of people do not think about. A real dry sump tank will have a "shredder" built into the center that keeps the oil from foaming inside the tank and also allows the oil that is misted inside to form and drain back down to the bottom so there is more liquid oil to be supplied to the pump.
The stock pan is another area too, again ARE makes a few different pan options to allow better oil control at the engine side and make sure oil is there for the pump to pick up and be sent back to the tank. Also when doing the pan you have to use a remote filter, which also offers some benefits in that you can run a bigger filter on the car and plumb in extra coolers if needed.
This is a 3 stage Daily setup using a ARE stage III tank for anyone interested in one of these. Billet pan, and the pump is mounted directly to the pan so there are no external lines to screw with. Also has a built in oil pressure adjustable regulator on the pump itself.
Here you can see what is most commonly referred to as a stage II ARE kit with the pan and new tank (prototype used in this picture, this was the first kit done for the LS7). You can also see the oil shredder located inside the tank too.
You can also add the external suction pump to the ARE kits to help pull oil and oil vapor from the engine and supply back to the tank from what doesn't drain back by gravity as the stock pump on the LS7 differs from a race dry sump in that it can not pull a vacuum on the crankcase.
let me know if you have any questions, more than happy to help pick a setup for you.
i just picked up an 09 so ive got the tank size covered i guess.
thats a little further than id like to go Anthony. maybe upgrade oil system would be better. im looking for more of a bolt in application. with ac, stock oil filter (well i would give on this one)
is this pan a direct bolt in? stock replacement? lines/hook ups and all? ie nothing changes/moded but the pan itself? and if so then what are its advantages? http://www.drysump.com/~drysump/ls7.htm
also what are your thoughts on Katech red, vs blue, vs stock ported pumps?
im primarily looking for more pressure.
Call avaid, they told me to remove the factory windage tray when I installed the pan baffle. I think it is in the instructions too.
...called Aviaid, they told me the same thing.
Reason for the question:Their photos show a longer version of the baffle assy, extending forward to the 2nd main cap.
New versions only reach the center main... puzzled why they wouldn't utilize some type of windage tray for the first 4 cyls.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS
i just picked up an 09 so ive got the tank size covered i guess.
thats a little further than id like to go Anthony. maybe upgrade oil system would be better. im looking for more of a bolt in application. with ac, stock oil filter (well i would give on this one)
is this pan a direct bolt in? stock replacement? lines/hook ups and all? ie nothing changes/moded but the pan itself? and if so then what are its advantages? http://www.drysump.com/~drysump/ls7.htm
also what are your thoughts on Katech red, vs blue, vs stock ported pumps?
im primarily looking for more pressure.
Pan is a bolt in item, one key item to note with either the daily or the ARE pan you do not have a drain plug anymore. On race cars you drain the tank, not the engine so with the aftermarket tanks they have a drain built into them, or you pull the lines off and drain it there between the pan and tank.
Improved Racing is selling a newer version for the LS7 that includes a built in oil scraper. Also it doesn't bolt into the bottom of the the oil pan like our original versions. It is one assembly that attaches to the windage tray mounts. They have different versions for LS2/3 and LS1/LS6 batwing wet sump motors as well. I don't see anything new listed for the LS3 dry sump or LS9 engines though. The only original dry sump engines that get this new style is the LS7.
In talking with Jason from Katech a couple of years ago about the blue and red pumps he mentioned that the blue pump is fine for engines with stock type of bearing clearances. The red pump is preferred if using the oil squirters or having loose bearing clearances for race motors.
I have two of the original style oil pan baffles installed on my engines (LS9 and LS3 427 dry sump engines). They did require removing of the factory windage trays.
is this pan a direct bolt in? stock replacement? lines/hook ups and all? ie nothing changes/moded but the pan itself? and if so then what are its advantages? http://www.drysump.com/~drysump/ls7.htm
The pan itself is a direct bolt on. However you will need to make up new hoses for the tank and oil cooler and filter. For cars with stock springs, Ii mount the oil filter where the washer bottle goes. For coil over cars, I use Katech's filter mount. I also add a 75 micron filter between engine oil out and tank in. I would also go with ARE's tank and Katech's lower mounting bracket.
Improved Racing is selling a newer version for the LS7 that includes a built in oil scraper. Also it doesn't bolt into the bottom of the the oil pan like our original versions. It is one assembly that attaches to the windage tray mounts. They have different versions for LS2/3 and LS1/LS6 batwing wet sump motors as well. I don't see anything new listed for the LS3 dry sump or LS9 engines though. The only original dry sump engines that get this new style is the LS7.
I have two of the original style oil pan baffles installed on my engines (LS9 and LS3 427 dry sump engines). They did require removing of the factory windage trays.
The Improved Racing piece is pretty nice looking... I would have gone that way, except I already had the Aviaid item installed in the pan. Also requires the ARP main studs...
The rear of the factory tray interfered with the baffle (at lest on my engine...) so I wound up trimming it to clear, but still use the F section.
10-03-2016, 04:08 PM
bullet proofing the C6Z oiling system?
I have a ARe stage 2 and a Synergy Motorsports ported oil pump. Never have oiling issues. I had the katech red pump on last motor and this one has a lot better pressures.
