rabrooks

Ok, so I asked my alignment guy to put -2.6 camber in the front he says he cant get there. I tell him to remove washers behind upper control arm. He says that still wont get us there. He says 2.6 will put the top of the tire in 1.5 Inches.

I say no, 1 degree is 7/32 in a foot. so in 24", dia of tire it will be in at the top approx 1.13"

He disagrees, what am I missing.

BEZ06

Aw geez!!! You're making me start thinking about geometry stuff that I haven't thought about in a few years!!!

Butt....using the sine of 1°, I agree that if you pin down one end of a 12" ruler and sweep the other end 1° that you will have moved that end about 7/32".

However, it appears to me that if you translate that over to a 24" tire diameter, with a 1° change in camber you will have moved the edge of the tire effectively twice as far as the 12" ruler - i.e., 14/32"=7/16".

I don't know where you got the 1.13"!?!? (Edit: never mind!! I read again and realized the 1.13" is for 2.6° of camber!!)

Take a look at the double wishbone suspension setup that we have - an Upper Control Arm, and a Lower Control Arm:




If you remove washers/shims to move the UCA inward, the pivot point is the lower ball joint where the LCA attaches to the knuckle - a little below the center of the hub.

What I see happening is something like in the diagram below (the picture of camber in the top left). You can see that the top of wheel would be pulled in, and the bottom would be pushed out. The diagram has the center of this action at the hub, but with our Vette suspension the pivot point would take place below the hub, so the top might come in more than the bottom goes out - i.e., of the total 7/16", maybe the bottom would go out 3/16" and the top would come in the remainder of the 7/16", or the top would move in about 4/16" (1/4"):




Bottom line - just MHO, but I don't see any big problem with the amount of distance the top of the wheel will move in by increasing camber by 1°!!! (Edit: even going to 2.6° from 0° would be about 2/3". But you're probably already at -1.0° or so, so you'd probably only be moving the top of the tire in by not much more than 1/2" or so)

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dapopa9

Is this for a C6 Z06? Do you have any type of aftermarket lower control arm adjustment plates? If not then I doubt you can hit -2.6 just by moving the upper control arm and the shims.

Check out the vansteel camber kit

BEZ06

If you want a camber kit, AMT Motorsport has a great one:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...kit-c5-c6.html


Mark just recently started delivering his new C7 kit. The C7 requires 8 sets of bolts/plates. On the C5/C6, the rear LCA only has 1 adjustable bushing to control camber. However, on the C7 the rear caster is adjustable (and VERY IMPORTANT!!), so both LCA bushings are adjustable in order to set the rear caster to spec, and that requires an additional bolt and set of plates for each side in the rear - i.e., 8 bolt/plate sets for the C7 vs. 6 for the C5/C6.

Here's a link to the new C7 kit:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...available.html


I have the AMT Camber Kit installed in my C7 and it's a FIRST RATE KIT!!! There have been numerous forum members that have had the alignment slip from aggressive track driving. So, if you want to lock the alignment into place, a good set of camber plates will do it for you!!

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Mark@AMT Motorsport

Thanks for beating the AMT drum Bob!!

FWIW our camber kit pushes the LCAs out a smidge further on the C5/C6 platform than the stock eccentrics allow. -2.6 is no problem with our kit. I can't tell from your profile pic if that's a C6Z or not. We're making parts now for the C6Z/ZR1 but if it's a steel framed C6 we've got you covered. Please let me know if I can answer any questions.

http://eaf41998-f6b0-42b6-b5bc-47e941d55dc8.onlinestore.godaddy.com/products/adjustable-camber-set

rabrooks

So the alignment is done. We got to where I wanted to be. He had to remove all the washers to get tbere. That should be fine. I'll double check everything tomorrow.

I WILL GET THE CAMBER KIT

Now I'm second guessin my choices. Because I'm going to daytona next. That track has less curves than my usual track, VIR.

BEZ06

Are you going to be here April 6-7 for the CECF/Flatout Motorsports event? If so, I'll c'ya at the track!!

(Edit: I just checked the roster and see you are indeed registered for the Apr 6-7 event in your C6 Z06!!!)

What tires are you running? Usually the camber will depend on what the tires require.

Take a look at this info about Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...nd_Feeding.pdf


In there you can see that they do recommend different, and even non-symmetrical, specs for a "roval".

However, I've done about 21 HPDE's at Daytona (53 track days) over the past 10 years. I've driven my C6 Z06, ZR1, and two events last year in my C7 Z06. I've run the C6 Z06 on OE Goodyears and also Hoosiers, the ZR1 on Pilot Sport and Sport Cups, and the C7 Z06 on Pilot Sport Cup 2's (all of them runflats except the Hoosiers).

With the Hoosiers I ran about -2.5° front/-2.0° rear, but with the C6's with street tires I've run about -2.2° front/-1.8° rear.

With the C7 Z06 on Sport Cup 2's I've been running -2.0° front/-1.8° rear with excellent results.

All of the above have been the same on both the left and right when running Daytona.

Bottom line - you can run Daytona with the same alignment you run anywhere else. If you're racing and looking for a podium position, then you'll want to really fine tune the alignment for every track. But if you're out to have fun, if you have a good track alignment it will work for Daytona. I run the same thing at Daytona that I run at VIR.

The one thing they always say in every driver's meeting before events at Daytona is to run several psi higher tire pressure in the right side tires due to the banking.

However, I always start out with the same pressure right and left, and find that the right side automatically ends up about 2-3 psi higher on the right all by itself due to a little higher temps. You're in a high-speed left turn around the banking, so you've got right lateral G's increasing the load on the right side of the car, and the tire temps and pressure will go up more than the left.

You're gonna LUV it!!! There's no place like Daytona to turn the beast in a Vette loose!!!!!!

Here's my C7 Z06 last year:



If you'll be in a C6 Z06, here's mine in Dec 2008 (I think on Hoosiers):


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rabrooks

Thanks for the info. I'll leave it alone, at least until I've made a few laps

I will be running Pirelli Slicks on a 2009 Black Z06
I'd like to look you up and talk to you about the data acquisition system you used on your c6z
I'll be in the black c6z with a wing and full ZR1 aero #62
Thanks
Roger