Heater core by-pass valve + insulation works!
#1
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Heater core by-pass valve + insulation works!
Last summer I installed an automotive, manual in-line valve in my 5/8" heater hose. I also replaced my carpet and installed new heat shield and jute insulation (Willcox) in the front cockpit only. I thought that I'd succeeded in cooling down the interior with those changes. While driving this summer, it felt cooler. Today, on a cruise through some cool, foggy mountain roads, I had to stop and open up the valve and let the hot water circulate thru the heater core. It was actually too cool in the cockpit! In the past I had never needed to even pull the heater door open. Prior to today, enough heat was passed thru the floorboard, firewall, and heater box that it was always plenty warm in the cockpit.
#3
Details of remote heat valve by-pass installation
I was planning on using a brass plumbing supply 5/8 ball valve to prevent the water flow from the intake to the heater core. However, if you have a cleaver way to remote this feature please share the info w/ the group. I'm not too proud to listen to a better idea!
Please include parts descriptions & #. A picture would be fantastic! All C2 owners want to keep the cabin cool!
Thanks in advance for helping!
Andy
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
I don't recall the part number or application. I just looked through the catalog at my FLAPS until I found what I wanted; A heater valve that had the cable mount bracket as part of the valve. I used a universal choke cable to operate the valve. I don't have a parking brake so I mounted the cable in that area. Pull to open, push to close. I will try and get the part number/application over the weekend if you like.
#5
Drifting
this sounds like a good idea. but does this put stress on the heater core?
meaning having the same fluid sitting in the core. does it cause rust?
i have no idea one way or the other. jim
meaning having the same fluid sitting in the core. does it cause rust?
i have no idea one way or the other. jim
#6
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1] The valve and installation pictured is very similar to mine. I chose not to use the cable as it won't be operated often and it's very easy to access and operate when reaching under the open hood. I just asked my parts supplier for a 5/8 in. in-line heater valve w/ 2 clamps and that's what we came up with. It is a plastic body.
2] I don't know if there is a corrosion problem involved without the coolant circulating thru the core at all times. As I stated above, it is very easy to open the valve anytime and allow fresh coolant to flush the core, for as long as you want.
2] I don't know if there is a corrosion problem involved without the coolant circulating thru the core at all times. As I stated above, it is very easy to open the valve anytime and allow fresh coolant to flush the core, for as long as you want.
#7
Last summer I installed an automotive, manual in-line valve in my 5/8" heater hose. I also replaced my carpet and installed new heat shield and jute insulation (Willcox) in the front cockpit only. I thought that I'd succeeded in cooling down the interior with those changes. While driving this summer, it felt cooler. Today, on a cruise through some cool, foggy mountain roads, I had to stop and open up the valve and let the hot water circulate thru the heater core. It was actually too cool in the cockpit! In the past I had never needed to even pull the heater door open. Prior to today, enough heat was passed thru the floorboard, firewall, and heater box that it was always plenty warm in the cockpit.
#9
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St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
I don't recall the part number or application. I just looked through the catalog at my FLAPS until I found what I wanted; A heater valve that had the cable mount bracket as part of the valve. I used a universal choke cable to operate the valve. I don't have a parking brake so I mounted the cable in that area. Pull to open, push to close. I will try and get the part number/application over the weekend if you like.
Last edited by Sky65; 08-23-2009 at 10:36 PM.