SDVette

Well after all the tank/line/carb work, I actually got to drive it around..... for 1 day! I had 2-3 slow cranks, and now no crank at all. I have verified that the solenod is getting 12V when the key is on START position. Looks like the solenoid is shot.

My question is: Can I remove and replace it, or does the entire starter need to be removed?

Its times like this when I miss my dad... he was a treasure trove of info on these old cars. Thanks for any input/advise on this repair.

Fred

Frankie the Fink

You may as well take the starter off and have it rebuilt since you are in that far. My rebuild was $75 a year or so back. And yes, there are solenoids for sale on ebay right now for a '61. The bellhousing mounted starters on these cars don't have any shims so they are really easy to R&R. Just make sure you have the strap supporting the nose of the starter to provide the needed support when you reinstall it.

SDVette

Thanks Frank. I forgot to mention that my block is a 1972 lt-1.. but i believe the starter is from the original 283. Does that change anything?

1snake

Unless you have a Powerglide transmission, no 56-62 with a manual transmission came from the factory with one.

Jim

62corvette

You are correct!
Op-- you need to know if your starter bolts to the block or to the bell housing. Solenoids are essentially the same, however.

SDVette

Here is a photo. Looks like it bolts to the bell housing.. yes?

1snake

YES. Only starters that were bolted to the block had the brace attached to the upper armature housing bolt. Get yours fixed and disregard any bad advice.

Jim

Ironcross

A wise move would be to check all of your battery connections before jumping in to remove the starter......corrosion from these connections will cause similar results as you described

Frankie the Fink

That is correct....I should have more properly said if your starter has a strap be sure to replace it on re-installation. It was also assumed since you measured voltage at the solenoid that you checked electrical connectivity; that is always a first step in troubleshooting.

Ironcross has a point - slow cranking may well be due to excessive resistance in the starter circuit.

If you DO decide to remove the starter/solenoid disconnect the battery first of course.

SDVette

Thanks everyone.

I had done a complete cleanup of the connections...no effect.
Also, the 12v is present, but no click, so I think i've got the right culprit.

Starter is already off the car. going to the auto electric shop tomorrow.