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Tips for Making Urethane Look Like Lacquer

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Old 06-20-2013, 09:23 AM
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mhooke
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Default Tips for Making Urethane Look Like Lacquer

I am desirous of having my '65 Nassau Blue Corvette painted, and would like it to have a decent chance of passing NCRS judging standards. I am an NCRS member and am very familiar with their standards of "appearing" like the original acrylic lacquer (and the newer NCRS decision tree for progressive deductions for substitute paint systems). I also have read over the years dozens of posts here and on the NCRS Technical Discussion Board about the advisability of going with new acrylic lacquer, single stage urethane, or two-stage base/clear.

So I don't mean to trigger that debate again. I've decided not to go with acrylic lacquer because I used it on my '55 a few years ago and was disappointed with its durability. I like the "look" of lacquer very much (and know full well that it's easier to touch up, etc.), but I found that even on a car that is always garaged and thus protected from the elements, almost anything will mar the surface, including windshield wiper fluid and human perspiration. In addition, even after going to the trouble of applying new lacquer paint (which obviously must be inferior to the original lacquer), I still didn't receive full credit on the paint during NCRS judging process (although admittedly this was due primarily to "over-restoration" on my part.)

Anyway, this is background to let folks know that I'm pretty familiar with the inevitable discussion that a question like this usually inspires on a forum like this, and that I'm past this initial decision-making point concerning whether to use lacquer. Bottom line--I'm going to use something other than lacquer this time.

My question rather involves whether anyone here is familiar with the painting techniques used by a few industrious innovators to make other paint systems "look" more like lacquer. I realize full well that no paint system will entirely simulate the appearance of lacquer, but I've also heard that there are a handfull of restorers around the country (Nabers Brothers in Texas?) who can come darn close.

I have a very good and meticulous painter (with considerable Vette painting experience) who could probably pull it off if he had a few more tips as to precisely what to do. Techniques I have heard about include using higher pressure and thinning single-stage urethane a little more during the last couple of coats so that the paint "stands up" more. Can anyone here please provide more detail about any such painting tips? Please assume that I already know the obvious stuff about dulling door jambs and hood ledge, leaving some orange peel, avoiding build-up on the edges, and avoiding over-buffing of the lower body, including front and rear valence. I'm looking for the lesser known and perhaps more technical techniques. Also, any tips on how (or where) to duplicate the smaller size of the metallic flakes in the original Nassau Blue would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mike H.
Old 06-20-2013, 10:10 AM
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SBR
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Mike, Elio Martin is the 65 NCRS team leader who also owns a restoration shop. He does lacquer and modern paint finishes and he does a great job in getting the right look with the modern paints. Nabers also does great work but will only spray lacquer. PM me if you want Elios number.
Old 06-20-2013, 10:20 AM
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vetteLT193
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Check this link out, the Paint session listed near the top.

http://www.ncrs.org/convention/seminars.htm

This book may help too: http://books.google.com/books?id=gkH...20ncrs&f=false
Old 06-20-2013, 10:32 AM
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I mix 1 qt clear in with 3 qt acrylic urethane SS paint for a durable yet classic look. I did the 64 in my avitar this way.

Russ
Old 06-20-2013, 11:11 PM
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project63
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Mike,

You may know this as an NCRS member, but Tom Ames is the NCRS National paint lead and a pretty helpful guy. You might send him an email and see if he will share any tips.

tc
Old 06-20-2013, 11:22 PM
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AZDoug
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Originally Posted by SBR
Mike, Elio Martin is the 65 NCRS team leader who also owns a restoration shop. He does lacquer and modern paint finishes and he does a great job in getting the right look with the modern paints.

Based on my poor painting skills, i could probably make modern paint look like **** also.

Doug
Old 06-22-2013, 09:43 AM
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chris ritchie
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I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
Old 06-22-2013, 11:47 AM
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jdk971
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Originally Posted by chris ritchie
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
my cousin used hair spray last year and got gold. jim
Old 06-22-2013, 12:04 PM
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MrPbody
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Originally Posted by jdk971
my cousin used hair spray last year and got gold. jim
Ya. that's why I don't enter shows anymore. a pretty face always has an unfair advantage.

Russ
Old 06-22-2013, 12:08 PM
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ohiovet
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Contact Jeff Bernhart at The Restoration Station in Springboro, Ohio.
He does a great job with paint.
Old 06-22-2013, 08:14 PM
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project63
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Originally Posted by chris ritchie
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
Don't get your hopes up on that because things have evolved in the last few years. There are plenty of other places a knowledable NCRS judge will look beside the door jambs. In fact, door jambs are judged by the interior team NOT the exterior team. An exterior judge might use them for another data point but they do not base their point assessment on door jamb appearance.

tc

Last edited by project63; 06-22-2013 at 08:16 PM.
Old 06-22-2013, 08:50 PM
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Mike Ward
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Originally Posted by chris ritchie
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
The paint still has to LOOK like lacquer in the first place. Dulled down jambs on an obvious BC/CC car wouldn't get you very far.
Old 06-22-2013, 09:29 PM
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1snake
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The paint still has to LOOK like lacquer in the first place. Dulled down jambs on an obvious BC/CC car wouldn't get you very far.
The worse you can make your paint look, the better it will score. I don't play that game. After the hundreds of hours stripping and perfecting gaps, I simply can't bring myself to do a sh!tty paint job. Yes, I've had a few originals and the factory job is crap.

Jim

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