Tips for Making Urethane Look Like Lacquer
#1
Tips for Making Urethane Look Like Lacquer
I am desirous of having my '65 Nassau Blue Corvette painted, and would like it to have a decent chance of passing NCRS judging standards. I am an NCRS member and am very familiar with their standards of "appearing" like the original acrylic lacquer (and the newer NCRS decision tree for progressive deductions for substitute paint systems). I also have read over the years dozens of posts here and on the NCRS Technical Discussion Board about the advisability of going with new acrylic lacquer, single stage urethane, or two-stage base/clear.
So I don't mean to trigger that debate again. I've decided not to go with acrylic lacquer because I used it on my '55 a few years ago and was disappointed with its durability. I like the "look" of lacquer very much (and know full well that it's easier to touch up, etc.), but I found that even on a car that is always garaged and thus protected from the elements, almost anything will mar the surface, including windshield wiper fluid and human perspiration. In addition, even after going to the trouble of applying new lacquer paint (which obviously must be inferior to the original lacquer), I still didn't receive full credit on the paint during NCRS judging process (although admittedly this was due primarily to "over-restoration" on my part.)
Anyway, this is background to let folks know that I'm pretty familiar with the inevitable discussion that a question like this usually inspires on a forum like this, and that I'm past this initial decision-making point concerning whether to use lacquer. Bottom line--I'm going to use something other than lacquer this time.
My question rather involves whether anyone here is familiar with the painting techniques used by a few industrious innovators to make other paint systems "look" more like lacquer. I realize full well that no paint system will entirely simulate the appearance of lacquer, but I've also heard that there are a handfull of restorers around the country (Nabers Brothers in Texas?) who can come darn close.
I have a very good and meticulous painter (with considerable Vette painting experience) who could probably pull it off if he had a few more tips as to precisely what to do. Techniques I have heard about include using higher pressure and thinning single-stage urethane a little more during the last couple of coats so that the paint "stands up" more. Can anyone here please provide more detail about any such painting tips? Please assume that I already know the obvious stuff about dulling door jambs and hood ledge, leaving some orange peel, avoiding build-up on the edges, and avoiding over-buffing of the lower body, including front and rear valence. I'm looking for the lesser known and perhaps more technical techniques. Also, any tips on how (or where) to duplicate the smaller size of the metallic flakes in the original Nassau Blue would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Mike H.
So I don't mean to trigger that debate again. I've decided not to go with acrylic lacquer because I used it on my '55 a few years ago and was disappointed with its durability. I like the "look" of lacquer very much (and know full well that it's easier to touch up, etc.), but I found that even on a car that is always garaged and thus protected from the elements, almost anything will mar the surface, including windshield wiper fluid and human perspiration. In addition, even after going to the trouble of applying new lacquer paint (which obviously must be inferior to the original lacquer), I still didn't receive full credit on the paint during NCRS judging process (although admittedly this was due primarily to "over-restoration" on my part.)
Anyway, this is background to let folks know that I'm pretty familiar with the inevitable discussion that a question like this usually inspires on a forum like this, and that I'm past this initial decision-making point concerning whether to use lacquer. Bottom line--I'm going to use something other than lacquer this time.
My question rather involves whether anyone here is familiar with the painting techniques used by a few industrious innovators to make other paint systems "look" more like lacquer. I realize full well that no paint system will entirely simulate the appearance of lacquer, but I've also heard that there are a handfull of restorers around the country (Nabers Brothers in Texas?) who can come darn close.
I have a very good and meticulous painter (with considerable Vette painting experience) who could probably pull it off if he had a few more tips as to precisely what to do. Techniques I have heard about include using higher pressure and thinning single-stage urethane a little more during the last couple of coats so that the paint "stands up" more. Can anyone here please provide more detail about any such painting tips? Please assume that I already know the obvious stuff about dulling door jambs and hood ledge, leaving some orange peel, avoiding build-up on the edges, and avoiding over-buffing of the lower body, including front and rear valence. I'm looking for the lesser known and perhaps more technical techniques. Also, any tips on how (or where) to duplicate the smaller size of the metallic flakes in the original Nassau Blue would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Mike H.
#2
Safety Car
Mike, Elio Martin is the 65 NCRS team leader who also owns a restoration shop. He does lacquer and modern paint finishes and he does a great job in getting the right look with the modern paints. Nabers also does great work but will only spray lacquer. PM me if you want Elios number.
#3
Melting Slicks
Check this link out, the Paint session listed near the top.
http://www.ncrs.org/convention/seminars.htm
This book may help too: http://books.google.com/books?id=gkH...20ncrs&f=false
http://www.ncrs.org/convention/seminars.htm
This book may help too: http://books.google.com/books?id=gkH...20ncrs&f=false
#5
Drifting
Mike,
You may know this as an NCRS member, but Tom Ames is the NCRS National paint lead and a pretty helpful guy. You might send him an email and see if he will share any tips.
tc
You may know this as an NCRS member, but Tom Ames is the NCRS National paint lead and a pretty helpful guy. You might send him an email and see if he will share any tips.
tc
#6
Race Director
Based on my poor painting skills, i could probably make modern paint look like **** also.
Doug
#7
Melting Slicks
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
#8
Drifting
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
#9
Drifting
#11
Drifting
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
tc
Last edited by project63; 06-22-2013 at 08:16 PM.
#12
I attended a paint seminar at an NCRS convention a few years ago. This was when that paint discussion was raging. Bottom line - you will get full credit for 2 stage or urethane if you dull the door jambs. You'll get full credit if you show that you made an effort. Dull the door jambs with 0000 steel wool if you want the look permanent. Shoot the door jambs with hair spray if you want them dulled temporarily.
#13
Le Mans Master
Jim