Vet65te

Egor - You do have some choices when trying to figure out how to add a functioning PCV system to the engine in your new midyear but it's unlikely you're going to damage anything if you drive it the way it's currently set up because your engine is vented (sorta) similar to engines back before about '64 when PCV systems came into play, back when all they had was a draft tube.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

Mr D.

Look for a Edelbrock C3BX intake if you don't want to pay the $$$ for an OEM.

Tampa Jerry

You could also go with a 68 cast iron intake. It will have the oil filler and you can use the Q-jet carb. I have seen them at swap meets for $100 or so. In fact, I sold one with a carb for not much more than that a few years ago. That set up was used on the 327/350 and the 327/300 models. Good luck. Jerry

toddalin

Due to risk of explosion, as well as no way to get under the engine without removing it, some boats used to require that the oil be changed through the dip stick, mine included. Was a PITA.

VITIV Coupe

I am waiting for the original intake. The dealer is getting it for me, I have it all in writing. If they fail to locate one (which they probably say they can't find one), then I'll just demand the $500.00 their going for on E bay and get it myself. If worst come to worst, I have the intake off now and I have talked to a machinist buddy of mine and he will drill out the hole for the spout in the front on my current intake.

66jack

If your happy with the setup you have in there now, just have your buddy drill it...buy a pcv valve and hose and your done...


Lots cheaper...

VITIV Coupe

Just thought I would keep you guys up to date in my progress on this (64- Surprise), you have all been so helpful, this is the least I can do. Her's where I am now. I went and seen the dealer and of course they hadn't located a correct intake but they did have a couple of other items (wiper motor & LF headlight motor) on order. I talked to him and he was very apologetic that I was having some issues with the car. I ask him if I could locate the intake and he would reimburse me and he said he was actually going to suggest that. I also showed him the list that I ordered from Ecklers , about $400.00 (PCV, Battery tray, oil fill spout, cap, spark arrestor, gaskets, etc, etc). Basically, everything to make the car run and look properly. He went over the list and said he isn't going to squabble over a few dollars, yes, they will cover the cost, just bring the receipts in when you get your parts and we will reimburse you. I have that in writing also. I have already got a intake off e-bay, on the way (3844461-Winters), I'm going to put that on the shelf for now (thank you very much to the dealer). I took the top end off,took the intake to a machinist and he is drilling out the hole on my Performer Intake, I'll stick with the Rochester Quad for now, lots of time to buy the Holley. When I removed the thermostat housing, there was no thermostat (surprise). I also took the exhaust manifolds off to. Going to replace all the gaskets and do a little freshening up (clean & paint).
I have a question, since I have gone this far, should I take them heads off and clean them up? I don't have any head gasket leaks and I don't want to do a valve job and I definitely don't have any money left,lol I just maybe clean the combustion chamber up with a wire wheel. If I did, how hard is it to do the valve adjustment when I get them back on? Thanks for your input.

Vet65te

When you have the exhaust manifolds off, check the mating surface that hits the heads for corrosion/pitting and also put a straight edge across them to see if they need to be milled. Probably will be fine but it's just something worth checking now while they're off. I know you weren't looking to get into a valve job but at this point, with the intake off you have a good view of the intake ports and can see if there's been oil intrusion due to old/worn valve guides. Did you do a compression test before the tear down?
Mike T - Prescott AZ

VITIV Coupe

Ok on the straight edge Mike, thanks for the info. No I didn't do a compression test, it wasn't burning any oil, which is a good thing. I am going to rethink the heads. How hard is it to reset the valve lash?
Leo

Vet65te

Leo - Can't remember if you mentioned you had hydraulic or solid lifters but either way, not a big deal to adjust them after heads have been done, if you go that route. When looking down into the intake ports where you can see the tops of the valves, do you see any shiny looking oily deposits? What did the plugs look like?
Mike T - Prescott AZ

VITIV Coupe

Didn't see to much oily deposits on the stems and tomorrow, I'm pulling the plugs. I'll get back to you tomorrow Mike, thanks
Leo

VITIV Coupe

I pulled all the plugs today and they are a nice toasty tan color. Cleaned them up end re-gapped them. Now a little freshening up before I slap this bad boy back together.

Vet65te

Leo - That's good news to hear the plugs look decent, no fouling or oil showing. By the way, did you ever mention what horsepower your 327 is supposed to be? That last pic shows the big harmonic damper.
Mike T - Prescott AZ

VITIV Coupe

Its a 327/365 hp. The car has the correct tachometer and heads and manifolds to prove it, if need. I have everything painted and ready to put back in, just waiting for my goodies from Eclers on Tuesday and then I'll be in the garage all night, again. love being retired, this is great. lol

128racecar

What a coincidence- I had to change the oil on my 57 today. The fuelie unit is off getting rebuilt, so I have an Edelbrock/Holley on for now for temporary use. I have an old 57 Chevy valve cover with a hole drilled in it for the funnel. If you drill the hole between the "C" and the "h" in the "Chevrolet" script, the funnel won't hit the rockers. You will need shorter screws than the ones for the aluminum valve cover. Taking this on and off is faster than filling it thru the dipstick!

Also note period correct Corvette Anton Fender Tender- my late father owned a mail order speed shop business that specialized in Corvette accessories in the 60s and 70s. I "borrowed" it from the shop back in the mid 70s. Nothing like vintage Corvette accessories!

Marc in Indy
57 Corvette 245 HP 4 spd with 7300 FI installed in the early 60s

VITIV Coupe

I'll pass on the valve cover mod, Mark. I plan on putting all the correct parts back on the car, this Tuesday. Thanks for the info and by the way, nice fender protector.

3Mar67

Any updates? Or are you having too much fun driving the car?

VITIV Coupe

Updates, wow, yes, lots of them. Got the original intake from the previous owner, but it wasn't original at all. Its an aluminum intake from 66-67 Corvette, chevy II and Chevelle. Can't use that because my Q-Jet will hit the hood. Soooo I am sticking with the Edlebrock Performer 2101 and drill out the fill tube bung area. I took the fill tube off the intake he gave me, it even has the PCV valve in it. Got the valves lashed, that was a joke. I put the valve covers back on, started it up and what a noise. It was like the valves were not even opening and the whole car shook. I shut it down, popped the valve covers and 3 on one side were not even connected and two on the other were the same. So I started from scrath, take the intake off (mainly because I had a bad oil leak at the rear on both sides of the engine. Cleaned everything up, lashed the valves the correct way (18436572), each cylinder at a time. Put the intake back on and drop in the distributor. Fired it up, It wouldn't fire. Found out I was a tooth off, advance the distributor one tooth forward, dropped it in and it fired right up, nice and quiet and smooth, but I couldn't keep it running to set the timing. Tried again and again to start it, but it wouldn't fire. Checked the carb, no gas, hmmm, check line to carb, no gas,, big hmmm this time. Well I thought the freakin fuel pump had gone on me, so I check the line before the fuel pump and no gas. Checked the gas tank and bone dry. Duhhh. I felt like the three stooges at that point, but it was something I can work with. Put gas in, fired right up. Got the timing set and points gaped to .019 (new) and set the idle mixture screws by vacuum and she just purrs now. Here are some pictures of the final assembly. That's why I love this forum, such a great bunch of helpful people.

Gary's '66

Well done, looks great! Just an FYI, you may want to add a second, smaller, throttle spring inside the large one. Cheap insurance against a runaway train, or in this case car.

Gary

TCracingCA

It is one of those dream oil less engines or the builder used so much assembly lube that he thought he was good forever!

PS maybe rig something to fill it from the dip stick!