Preferred Order: Body or Carpet?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Preferred Order: Body or Carpet?
On my '67 Coupe, I'm planning to have the carpeting replaced (possibly with Dynamat or other improved heat/sound insulation), and maybe the firewall insulation, too. The headliner and interior door panels don't need any work, but the door panels may need to come off if I have the body folks try get the the vent windows to seal better to reduce rain penetration and wind noise. I also need to get some body repairs done, which might result in a complete repaint. I won't be doing any of the work myself.
Is it smarter to do the carpeting or the bodywork first?
I did search a bit but didn't find a thread which could have answered the question.
Also, is it a reasonable hope to be able to go through a carwash occasionally without leakage, if the weather strips and windshield/rear window gaskets are good, or is that a foolish dream?
Is it smarter to do the carpeting or the bodywork first?
I did search a bit but didn't find a thread which could have answered the question.
Also, is it a reasonable hope to be able to go through a carwash occasionally without leakage, if the weather strips and windshield/rear window gaskets are good, or is that a foolish dream?
Last edited by SI67; 09-02-2014 at 03:08 AM.
#2
Team Owner
on my '67 coupe, i'm planning to have the carpeting replaced (possibly with dynamat or other improved heat/sound insulation), and maybe the firewall insulation, too. The headliner and interior door panels don't need any work, but the door panels may need to come off if i have the body folks try get the the vent windows to seal better to reduce rain penetration and wind noise. I also need to get some body repairs done, which might result in a complete repaint. I won't be doing any of the work myself.
Is it smarter to do the carpeting for the bodywork first?
body work first...you don't want all that dust on your new carpet
i did search a bit but didn't find a thread which could have answered the question.
Also, is it a reasonable hope to be able to go through a carwash occasionally without leakage, if the weather strips and windshield/rear window gaskets are good, or is that a foolish dream?
Is it smarter to do the carpeting for the bodywork first?
body work first...you don't want all that dust on your new carpet
i did search a bit but didn't find a thread which could have answered the question.
Also, is it a reasonable hope to be able to go through a carwash occasionally without leakage, if the weather strips and windshield/rear window gaskets are good, or is that a foolish dream?
Good luck...
#4
Melting Slicks
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I hope you don't try a car wash if all the posts I've read over the years is true. Most folks say these cars leak in a simple rain event, I imagine with the pressure of the water in a car wash you will get a lot of water in your car.
#5
Race Director
66jack is correct...if my opinion matters.
Do all body repairs, paint and panel adjustments first. Then water test it and I WOULD NOT put it through a car wash...simply because if you have an Assembly Manual...the water testing diagram show how it was tested...and car wash shoots water in ways that will cause the car to leak profusely.
Trying to get your car 100% water tight is something I would love to 'see'...only because I have tried and can get them really good and water tight....but a lot of it has to do with the weatherstripping design and how the windows and other panels fit.
DUB
Do all body repairs, paint and panel adjustments first. Then water test it and I WOULD NOT put it through a car wash...simply because if you have an Assembly Manual...the water testing diagram show how it was tested...and car wash shoots water in ways that will cause the car to leak profusely.
Trying to get your car 100% water tight is something I would love to 'see'...only because I have tried and can get them really good and water tight....but a lot of it has to do with the weatherstripping design and how the windows and other panels fit.
DUB
#6
Melting Slicks
I can understand not doing your own work. Some people either don't have the time or mechanical abilities. But come on, a car wash, really? Have you read the signs they put up before you enter one. They always read "not responsible for any damages to paint, antenna, mirrors, windows, etc." Unless I had someone who's responsible, like a good detailer, I wouldn't let anyone else touch my car.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Would you believe "carwash" was a typo?
I can understand not doing your own work. Some people either don't have the time or mechanical abilities. But come on, a car wash, really? Have you read the signs they put up before you enter one. They always read "not responsible for any damages to paint, antenna, mirrors, windows, etc." Unless I had someone who's responsible, like a good detailer, I wouldn't let anyone else touch my car.
Thanks to all who replied with advice. Looks like it will be body/paint first. The car was born Sunfire Yellow, had been painted Rally Red by the time I bought it in 1984, and then I had it painted Lynndale Blue in 1990-something. Now it's a little nicked up here and there and the hood has been ruined from the underside by A/C compressor oil, so it's getting to be time for some fixing up and some fresh paint. From other threads, I know about the aftermarket compressor oil sling shield and the need to paint the replacement hood's underside with something to oil-proof it.
Last edited by SI67; 09-02-2014 at 04:31 AM.
#9
Safety Car
I won't comment about carpeting, bodywork & paint, or even about if you put your car in a carwash.......But,
The oil from the A/C compressor has done damage to your hood that can't be seen yet. Do some extensive research and work with your body/paint shop to ensure all traces of the oil has been removed before refinishing. When the top layers of paint have been removed, as well as the underside blackout, there will be oil impregnated in the layers of the fiberglass.
It will take extensive amounts of cleaning and washing with solvents to remove the oil.
Others with more body/paint experience than I will advise you about the oil and how to remove all traces of it.......if possible. I've had other oils on FG which I removed with many rinses using denatured alcohol, acetone, and lacquer thinner rinses. Even with the object upside down using spray bottles to allow the oils to drip down via gravity. The toughest part is knowing when you think all of the oil has been removed.
Rich
The oil from the A/C compressor has done damage to your hood that can't be seen yet. Do some extensive research and work with your body/paint shop to ensure all traces of the oil has been removed before refinishing. When the top layers of paint have been removed, as well as the underside blackout, there will be oil impregnated in the layers of the fiberglass.
It will take extensive amounts of cleaning and washing with solvents to remove the oil.
Others with more body/paint experience than I will advise you about the oil and how to remove all traces of it.......if possible. I've had other oils on FG which I removed with many rinses using denatured alcohol, acetone, and lacquer thinner rinses. Even with the object upside down using spray bottles to allow the oils to drip down via gravity. The toughest part is knowing when you think all of the oil has been removed.
Rich
Last edited by rich5962; 09-02-2014 at 07:19 AM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I've read at least one thread about the oil-impregnated hood issue. Some folks have reported good success with diligent, repeated solvent treatment to remove the oil. Others say that the better move is to replace the hood. I'll work with my body shop on that decision.
Last edited by SI67; 09-02-2014 at 04:43 PM.
#11
Race Director
I will jump in on this 'oil in hood issue'. AND ...I have to AGREE with rich5962 100%!!!!
Is replacing the hood with a press-molded hood the fastest and easiest way...YES IT IS.
Can the oil be removed. YES IT CAN......but it is NOT for those who are 'jacked-up" and in a hurry.
On the corvettes that are NOT going 'Top-Flight' and NCRS....I apply a black gelcoat to the underside of the hood so this oil will not damage the hood. AND YES PEOPLE...Raise your hood from time to time and clean 'things'.
I have repaired and fixed oil saturated parts many times and the parts hold up. It does take time...and for some odd reason...some owners think that I own a magic wand and can just wave it over something and fix it perfectly.....or I can use my crystal ball and let them know how long some repairs are going to last.
I often times let them do the math. Divide the shop labor rate into the cost of a new hood including shipping. That will let you know how many hours can be spent on it will equal the cost of a new hood and shipping.
DUB
Is replacing the hood with a press-molded hood the fastest and easiest way...YES IT IS.
Can the oil be removed. YES IT CAN......but it is NOT for those who are 'jacked-up" and in a hurry.
On the corvettes that are NOT going 'Top-Flight' and NCRS....I apply a black gelcoat to the underside of the hood so this oil will not damage the hood. AND YES PEOPLE...Raise your hood from time to time and clean 'things'.
I have repaired and fixed oil saturated parts many times and the parts hold up. It does take time...and for some odd reason...some owners think that I own a magic wand and can just wave it over something and fix it perfectly.....or I can use my crystal ball and let them know how long some repairs are going to last.
I often times let them do the math. Divide the shop labor rate into the cost of a new hood including shipping. That will let you know how many hours can be spent on it will equal the cost of a new hood and shipping.
DUB