priming oil pump on '66 427...big problem!!
11-18-2015, 12:57 PM
#1
Drifting
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priming oil pump on '66 427...big problem!!
just got done adjusting the solid lifters on this rebuilt engine....never fired yet. i decided it would be a good idea to prime oil pump and lubricate engine before trying to start it, BUT, after running the drill motor on the prime tool for about 10 minutes (several times) i have discovered that i am getting NO oil to the top end! i have temp oil pressure gauge mounted, and am getting good pressure immediately (60#) but no oil.
this engine is original L72 and was already rebuilt when i bought the project...PO only knows that is was built back to factory specs.
i have now been told that some of the cams used on these engines aren't "grooved" properly, and won't oil correctly, or perhaps wrong bearing were used for cam???? anyone know anything about this? Rick
this engine is original L72 and was already rebuilt when i bought the project...PO only knows that is was built back to factory specs.
i have now been told that some of the cams used on these engines aren't "grooved" properly, and won't oil correctly, or perhaps wrong bearing were used for cam???? anyone know anything about this? Rick
11-18-2015, 01:04 PM
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Yes pull the cam and put a grove in the rear Journal And start over
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eastonh477 (05-26-2021)
11-18-2015, 01:08 PM
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Also never a good idea to install and run a 'rebuilt' but un-run and un-tested engine unless you have documentation. I would at the very minimum check the bearing clearances. while you have it out. Have seen some pretty horrific stuff over the years buttoned up in a freshly painted, 'rebuilt' but never tested block. You were very smart to do a pre-run oil prime...you avoided doing any damage. Good luck.
11-18-2015, 04:34 PM
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razman (11-18-2015)
11-18-2015, 04:50 PM
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You do not. All BB Chevy came are designed for 67+ motors. For 65-66 BB you need to machine a grove in the rear It's in the center of the rear journal and I think .030 deep. I forget the width. Also don't forget to order the correct barrings. Been there done that.
11-18-2015, 08:19 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
You will be pulling the timing cover to inspect the cam. Be sure to look and see that the galley plugs are all in place. They get pulled to clean the oil system but sometimes people forget to reinstall. If that is the case put the plugs in and check your pressure.
Last edited by Westlotorn; 11-18-2015 at 08:21 PM.
11-18-2015, 09:07 PM
#9
just got done adjusting the solid lifters on this rebuilt engine....never fired yet. i decided it would be a good idea to prime oil pump and lubricate engine before trying to start it, BUT, after running the drill motor on the prime tool for about 10 minutes (several times) i have discovered that i am getting NO oil to the top end! i have temp oil pressure gauge mounted, and am getting good pressure immediately (60#) but no oil.
this engine is original L72 and was already rebuilt when i bought the project...PO only knows that is was built back to factory specs.
i have now been told that some of the cams used on these engines aren't "grooved" properly, and won't oil correctly, or perhaps wrong bearing were used for cam???? anyone know anything about this? Rick
this engine is original L72 and was already rebuilt when i bought the project...PO only knows that is was built back to factory specs.
i have now been told that some of the cams used on these engines aren't "grooved" properly, and won't oil correctly, or perhaps wrong bearing were used for cam???? anyone know anything about this? Rick
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razman (11-19-2015)
11-18-2015, 10:20 PM
#11
using a flashlight to look down into the lifter area thru the opening in the head to see if oil is coming out around the lifters. if oil is coming out around the lifters it will take a while for the lifters to fill and send oil to the rockers. if you see no oil around the lifters then start tearing it down.
Last edited by PAmotorman; 11-18-2015 at 10:20 PM.
11-19-2015, 02:33 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
I've been thru this with a '66 396. We pulled the cam (which already had the groove cut into the rear cam journal @ Comp Cams ) and knocked-out the rear cam bearing which was a '67 + up style. We then drilled it with the two additional oil-feed holes needed for the '65 & '66 blocks. Reinstalled and had no more problems with the lack of oil to the topend.
Engine builder had installed the wrong cam bearings....obviously !
The groove in the rear cam journal should be 3/16" wide and 7/64" deep.
Engine builder had installed the wrong cam bearings....obviously !
The groove in the rear cam journal should be 3/16" wide and 7/64" deep.
Last edited by 68post; 11-19-2015 at 09:23 AM.
11-19-2015, 09:07 PM
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11-19-2015, 09:33 PM
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I've only done this on solid-lifter small-blocks about 40 times, and have never had a problem getting prime oil to the top end; it helps a lot if you use at least a 1/2" drill - 1/4" drills aren't up to the job. 
11-19-2015, 10:49 PM
#16
things go faster if you use a squirt type oil can to fill the solid lifter before installation. don't fill hyd lifter before installing because you will not be able to set the pre load as the lifter push rod seat will not move down without a lot of effort
11-20-2015, 10:25 AM
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11-20-2015, 10:44 AM
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