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I have a '57 that overheats after 2-3 cycles of the 180* stat that I put in(It had no stat. before I put in the 180* and just went right to 260*+). It is a later engine 62-66 283. The engine has a 6 blade fan on it with a later 58-60 fan shroud on it. The radiator seems to run clear. I have checked the timing and it seems right at 4* BTDC. No bubbles in radiator, and no anti-freeze in the oil & vice versa. There is no operating heat riser valve, it just spins. I don't think the internal valve is in the pipe.
Compression is not far off -cold checked with all plugs out, #'s 1- 160, 3,- 155, # 5.- 175 # 7, -150 # 2,-150, #4,-150,-#6,-150, #8,- 155.
It does have a smooth idle once it warms up, no choke plate and a Holley carb. Power glide Auto trans with a separate trans cooler on the frame rail. Car was originally a std. trans.
I've followed other questions on this same issue and found that a baffle should exist at the bottom of the radiator mount. I can see right though this with about a 1-2 inch gap beneath the radiator. Could this be the problem?
After 30 mins. of street and short highway driving I can hear boiling particularly on the right side of the engine when I pull back into the garage and it overflows from the rad. cap overflow hose.. The laser temp gauge shows 260-280* on the water flow channels on the manifold. Especially on the right side of the engine.
Any thoughts or suggestions to chase this down would be appreciated.
I have a '57 that overheats after 2-3 cycles of the 180* stat that I put in(It had no stat. before I put in the 180* and just went right to 260*+). It is a later engine 62-66 283. The engine has a 6 blade fan on it with a later 58-60 fan shroud on it. The radiator seems to run clear. I have checked the timing and it seems right at 4* BTDC. No bubbles in radiator, and no anti-freeze in the oil & vice versa. There is no operating heat riser valve, it just spins. I don't think the internal valve is in the pipe.
Compression is not far off -cold checked with all plugs out, #'s 1- 160, 3,- 155, # 5.- 175 # 7, -150 # 2,-150, #4,-150,-#6,-150, #8,- 155.
It does have a smooth idle once it warms up, no choke plate and a Holley carb. Power glide Auto trans with a separate trans cooler on the frame rail. Car was originally a std. trans.
I've followed other questions on this same issue and found that a baffle should exist at the bottom of the radiator mount. I can see right though this with about a 1-2 inch gap beneath the radiator. Could this be the problem?
After 30 mins. of street and short highway driving I can hear boiling particularly on the right side of the engine when I pull back into the garage and it overflows from the rad. cap overflow hose.. The laser temp gauge shows 260-280* on the water flow channels on the manifold. Especially on the right side of the engine.
Any thoughts or suggestions to chase this down would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dennis
Go to a Napa store and get a leak detector and check your cooling system for exhaust gases to see if you have a cracked head, block or blown head gasket. I wasted a bunch of time and money before doing it. This is the one I used.
BTW, my 1962 overheated no matter what. But my '57 Fuelie runs 185* all day long no matter how hot it is outside with the original radiator, fan, and shroud.
Overheating is like the flu. Some cars get it, some don't I guess.
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Originally Posted by Randy G.
BTW, my 1962 overheated no matter what. But my '57 Fuelie runs 185* all day long no matter how hot it is outside with the original radiator, fan, and shroud.
Overheating is like the flu. Some cars get it, some don't I guess.
I don't want to hijack the thread, but Randy that is a beautiful engine compartment.
To the OP, what is your timing at cruise RPM? Is your advance working? Do you have the original distributor, or are you using a newer one? Does the car run hot at idle, in town, or only on the freeway? More information would be helpful. Your car could be running retarded, running too lean, have a radiator/fan/shroud issue, water pump issue, etc. And Randy deserves a nice engine compartment and everything else coming his way after what he went through with that '62!
To the OP, what is your timing at cruise RPM? Is your advance working? Do you have the original distributor, or are you using a newer one? Does the car run hot at idle, in town, or only on the freeway? More information would be helpful. Your car could be running retarded, running too lean, have a radiator/fan/shroud issue, water pump issue, etc. And Randy deserves a nice engine compartment and everything else coming his way after what he went through with that '62!
Advance is working,
What should the timing be at cruise?(2000-3500 rpm?) the timing at idle is set at 4* BTDC. Has an HEI dizzy in it but I have a original type to go in. The car runs hot at idle, in town, and at cruise after 2-3 cycles of the thermostat (180* new) after this the temp keeps climbing until the gauge is pegged. Has full shroud, 6 blade fan. Radiator seems to flow fine. How would I check the water pump?
I have been trying to get this engine to cool off, before I put on the 2X4 setup from Chuck Smith. Currently running a mid 60's Holley.
Another question in case this engine has a crack in it, will my 2X4 manifold and setup fit on a new crate engine from gm(350, 290 HP)? The 283 in it is not original (mid sixties engine), so I won't miss it!
Go to a Napa store and get a leak detector and check your cooling system for exhaust gases to see if you have a cracked head, block or blown head gasket. I wasted a bunch of time and money before doing it. This is the one I used.
I am on way to NAPA to get this kit. Thanks for the info.
At 2500-3500 RPM, you should be pretty much 'all in' with your timing....and should be at about 36-40 degrees on the crank. The fact that it gets hotter and hotter no matter what has me suspicious of an engine issue, though.
At 2500-3500 RPM, you should be pretty much 'all in' with your timing....and should be at about 36-40 degrees on the crank. The fact that it gets hotter and hotter no matter what has me suspicious of an engine issue, though.
Yeah! That bothers me too. I may have to go another way with the engine.
Anyone have any idea if my new 2x4 set up from Chuck Smith will fit on a crate engine from GM 350 ci 290 hp?
Dennis - Your 2x4 setup will work fine, I have one on a crate 350 in my 57. Only thing you need to make provision for is crankcase ventilation due to lack of a road draft tube. I installed a pcv valve on driver's side valve cover connected to front carb, plus a vented oil fill cap. Works fine, oil stays clean. Plenty of threads on this forum regarding this. Good luck!
John
03-16-2016, 09:41 PM
"57 overheats.
