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Old 04-20-2016, 07:22 PM
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jdk971
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Default electric fuel pump

for the last couple of years i have been fighting internal electric fuel pumps. put a ls engine and a gm elec fuel pump in orig tank. about
a year or so later i burnt up the fuel pump. had another one put in
and in a couple of months that one burnt up. finally had it taken to
a local old timer who does electric work on vehicles. i figured it might
of been the liner put in the orig fuel tank, put in by builder. two days ago i found out it
was a relay pin in the wiring. it was loose or bent and the pump did
not get the full current. i did not know lower current would burn up
a fuel pump. but later i saw the fuel pump is basically a dc motor.
of all things a bent pin. i am glad he found it. jim
Old 04-21-2016, 03:48 PM
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JohnZ
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Originally Posted by jdk971
two days ago i found out it
was a relay pin in the wiring.
What is a "relay pin"?
Old 04-21-2016, 06:31 PM
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DUB
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
What is a "relay pin"?
I think 'jdk971' means the male terminal that is coming out of the relay so the female terminal connector can slide onto it.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; 04-21-2016 at 06:31 PM.
Old 04-21-2016, 07:12 PM
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jdk971
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i have not seen it, just what they described over the phone. i have no experience with
wiring. surprised me that lower voltage would burn up a pump. he mentioned relay and that a pin was either bent or broken. jim
Old 04-21-2016, 07:29 PM
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ILBMF
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I work on electric forklifts for a living. When guys run their batteries down extremely low and don't head for the battery charger it causes the electrical system to draw more amps. The electrical system heats up and causes motors to get hot along with control circuits, cables, wiring etc. I know it sounds odd, but that's what happens.
Old 04-22-2016, 09:49 AM
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jdk971
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thanks guys jim
Old 04-27-2016, 02:35 PM
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jdk971
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talked to the guy today. he said it was the male pin in the relay that
was loose. it was not allowing full voltage to the pump at times.

i remember during some accelerations it stumbled like old carbs
bogging down. hope that explains what happen, since i am a infant
when it comes to these things. jim
Old 04-27-2016, 02:59 PM
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DomL64
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I work in the Bronx. (NY) During the summer we have "brown outs". Con-Ed lowers the electrical voltage from 120 to 100 and/or 90 volts. We burnt up a few motors before we discovered this. Less voltage is not good for motors.
Old 04-27-2016, 04:30 PM
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RJ1
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JDK also consider that if you run the tank way down before refilling your tank the pump which already had a heat problem from the wiring issue has less gas to keep an in tank pump cool.

Last edited by RJ1; 04-27-2016 at 04:31 PM.
Old 04-27-2016, 07:52 PM
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jdk971
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i always try to keep at least a 1/4 tank of gas. they are having to empty a full tank now
to put a new pump in. i would of never thought of looking for a loose pin in a relay. but
then, i am no mechanic or elec engineer. jim
Old 04-28-2016, 06:54 PM
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BADBIRDCAGE
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Originally Posted by jdk971
i always try to keep at least a 1/4 tank of gas. they are having to empty a full tank now
to put a new pump in. i would of never thought of looking for a loose pin in a relay. but
then, i am no mechanic or elec engineer. jim
Jim:

I ran a TPI setup on my 63. Had an in-tank pump that ate it. I pulled the tank and replaced it but also installed an external, redundant, pump as I never wanted to do the tank drop again and was concerned about a failure on the road (read out of state). I switched between the pumps every fill up. Never experienced another failure on the in-tank pump or the external pump. Car ran the same on either one.
Old 04-29-2016, 09:21 PM
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the in tank pumps in chev trucks are notorious for not working...not sure what the problem is but not working is not working a new combo pump sender is expensive. Cut an access hole in my bed for quick replacement. Some pumps come with new wires to replace old as that was claimed to be an issue. Maybe someone can explain the problem. Been thru several brands with recommended fixes. Low fuel is a killer.

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