rtruman

Bad connections mean loose connections or broken connections .
when a rotor in a motor has a loose connection that's what's it does.
Be happy now and call someone that knows electrical .its fixed .

ecke

Yes.

How does the rotor have anything to do with my issue? My problem is that my car draws current when the ignition is in the off position. The problem is not that I have bad connections. It's quite the opposite!

I do know a thing or two about electrical stuff (in general) I'm no expert in Corvettes though.

rtruman

Alternator has a rotor puts out voltage to the regulator
you have a loose connection at red wire on Alternator the voltage regulator try's to control the proper voltage which is going all over the place ,Heat builds up on regulator due to poor connection .

ecke

Thought you meant the rotor in the distributor. Anyway, as I said previously. my problem is not when the engine is running. It's when it is shut off and the key is in the off position.

rtruman

Do what I did and not worry about it the clock will drag down the battery after a while not to mention wear and tear on clock .
Get a battery disconnect and have a fresh battery on every start even after weeks of sitting.

ecke

Yes, I will probably get a battery disconnect. But I would really like to solve the problem I have (with the 3A surge) I don't want to have to use the disconnect everytime I park the car, in fear of the regulator burning up!

65GGvert

No connection is an open circuit, no current. Bad connection can be any resistance and drop voltage across the connection resistance and this also reduces current to the other devices. I wouldn't mask a problem by putting in a cutoff switch. The draw won't be 3 amps with the switch off when it's fixed. You may have helped the problem when you disconnected and retightened the wire connections. Keep monitoring it and replace the alternator if it's bad.

rtruman

With the red wire off the Alternator are you still getting a 3 amp draw
if so pull one fuse at a time .

ecke

No, when I disconnect the red wire, it stops drawing current.

Frankie the Fink

I'm sorry; I'm not rereading all of this but briefly:
Do you have an original clock ? Is it working ?
Have you tried disconnecting the power lead to the clock and re-examining the power draw ?

RatDog

Last year, I was having the same problem with my battery draining overnight. I disconnected the red wire from the alternator, let the car sit overnight and the battery was fine the next morning. I got the alternator rebuilt and no more problems.

Steve

DUB

Then it is apparently clear that you have an issue internally inside the alternator....IF the only wire you remove is the large red wire that is on the threaded stud on the backside of your alternator.

Get it rebuilt and you should be fine.

And not that it matters in this post...but IF pulling fuses is how a person is trying to find the circuit that is drawing current. The ONLY fuses that need to be pulled are those fuses that are HOT when the key is out of the ignition. Because NOT all of the fuses in a fuse panel are HOT at all times...and THUS....if they have NO power going through them with the key out of the ignition...THEN they are obviously NOT the fuses that a person needs to be concerned with.

DUB

ecke

So, I'm going to order a rebuild kit for my alternator. But the kits I find refer to the Delco Remy model number. I have checked my alt. but I can only see the GM #.

Does anyone know what Delco model number my GM #1100693 is?

I found this link: http://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part...etails/1100693

It suggest 10DN. Not sure if the 1100693 is a GM number though...

And, where's the best place to buy a rebuild kit?

Nowhere Man

the 1100693 is the GM part number for your alternator that told the bean counters what amp and the type of pulley is on it. the style of the alt is the 10DN

Powershift

Back in Post #12 I provided a website that had alternator rebuild kits and info. Their web brochure (you need to download it) has pictures to identify all the Delco alternators and then provides a corresponding rebuild kit. Not recommending this company per se, but you can get the needed info and then do search for various other companies that sell rebuild kits. You want one with good solid parts. Summit and Jegs etc may also sell rebuild kits as well.........you can check. Even where you live, a good auto parts store or auto electrical rebuild shop should have or be able to get the proper parts.

Larry

ecke

Thanks. 10DN seems to be the one!

ecke

So I replaced the diodes, and the thing where the coals sit (don't know the name of it) I also replace the voltage regulator. At the same time I replaced the bearings and cleaned everything up. The car is still pulling 1.3A...

The weird thing about the radio, that the speaker scratched and produced static noise when turning the volume **** up, is gone though...

I removed all the fuses under dash (as far as I know there are only those?) But it still pulls 1.3A

It's to light here in Sweden at the moment to be able to check if the light bulb in the glove box turns off when shut. But I checked the amps and it increases by 0.4A when I open the box so I don't think that is the problem.

One weird thing is that when I first put everything together and checked, it was at 1.7A. I then did a couple of tests and all of a sudden it pulled 1.3A instead!

When I remove the red wire to the alternator the current drops to 0.4A. Before I did the rebuild it went down to 0.15A

I have not tried to disconnect the clock yet (forgot) But it is recently rebuilt though it is still mechanical.

Any good tips are very much appreciated!

RatDog

IF you have a smart phone or a small digital camera, put it on video mode, put it inside your glove box, and shut the glove box door. Wait a few seconds, open the door, and play back the video. If it goes dark, your light is going off.

Steve

Frankie the Fink

Very clever!

I'm gonna try that on my refrigerator....who really knows if the light goes off when you shut the door!

ecke

Good thinking!

However, as I wrote, the current drops by 0.4A when I close the glove box door. So the lamp must go off.

Actually, looking at what I wrote, I wrote it the other way around, but still the conclusion stands.