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i'm a bit foggy about exactly what I used and how I found it, probably a Google search and found the reference to the Firebird/Camaro latch; BUT I did an internet search for the Firebird/Camaro latch and couldn't find one for what I figured was a reasonable price.
then, somewhere in my research I read that there is a Ford latch with the same configuration, but only 2 mounting bolts; that's what I ended up using.
as you can see, I had to open up the top hole a bit and make a hole in the bottom for the solenoid to stick through; BUT, it works perfectly...
and just this moment I thought of a way to make it open with a fob....
sorry, i'm not more helpful...
Bill
Looks like a great solution Bill, any chance you have a close up photo of the numbers stamped into that latch, that would give me something to try and track one down with?
Looks like a great solution Bill, any chance you have a close up photo of the numbers stamped into that latch, that would give me something to try and track one down with?
I'm not Bill but here's a thread I started a few years back on the remote trunk release. the unit has worked flawless and saved me scratches on the horseshoe chrome around the license plate. Some other vendors may be cheaper. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-release.html
Thanks for the information, I checked Rock Auto for remote trunk latches for those applications but didn't find anything. I also checked and currently YearOne has the "Power trunk release kit for 1967 - 1969 Firebird models" for $119.99 plus shipping. I'll admit that's a bit more than I was expecting, so I may try and modify my existing latch so I can just add a cable release to accomplish the same thing for a lower cost.
Thanks for the information, I checked Rock Auto for remote trunk latches for those applications but didn't find anything. I also checked and currently YearOne has the "Power trunk release kit for 1967 - 1969 Firebird models" for $119.99 plus shipping. I'll admit that's a bit more than I was expecting, so I may try and modify my existing latch so I can just add a cable release to accomplish the same thing for a lower cost.
when I looked up the info I posted about:
1966-1970 Ford Fairlane Mustang Mercury Comet Power Trunk Release Electric Latch
someone on eBay wanted $250 for the Ford latch kit....
i'm not sure how one would go about modifying the existing latch...
Bill
ps: I have found a remote controlled relay that I am going to try to use as a keyless remote... Thanks Frank...
I saw a latch that had a lever on the backside/frontside of the rotating portion of the latch that the tailpiece that runs from the cylinder fits into.
it might be possible to get a tailpiece long enough to stick far enough through the latch and housing that you could fabricate a lever arm you could attach to the protruding end of the tailpiece in order to use a cable pull. BUT it would be a LOT of work...
Bill
Where can you install a fire extinguisher in a C1 that is not in the way? I usually have the hard top on and I would like a small unit, but I can't think of a place to mount it.If anyone has an idea pictures would be appreciated.
I don't see a problem with the mount, I have mine in front of the passenger seat against the right panel with a little wedge under it. It can be moved real easy.BILL.
Some important points: First off, whatever you decide for mounting, rfn026's suggestion about learning how to properly use a fire extinguisher is absolutely correct. After over 40 years as a professional firefighter, I can't tell you the number of times we rolled up on what started as a very minor engine compartment fire, but the vehicle had burned to the waterline . . . either because the driver didn't have a fire extinguisher, or (all too frequently) did have one, but had no idea how to use it effectively, if at all. OK, having said that, where to put the darned thing? Another important point, which has been mentioned - whatever you decide - make sure it's properly secured. I mean REALLY secure. You don't want that thing flying around the car interior in a collision. Next, make sure it is QUICKLY ACCESSIBLE. I'm not sure any location you have to get out of the driver's seat - or even the car - to get to is your best choice. If my 1962 started smoking from under the hood, I want to be able to grab it and use it as quickly as possible. In a fire, the clock is already running before you see a problem. Time is your enemy. And finally, don't fall into the trap the if a small extinguisher is good (and it is), a big one is better and a huge one is best. You should not be fighting a well-involved vehicle fire with a hand extinguisher. If your small one doesn't put it out, get the hell away from the car (You DID call the fire department right away, didn't you?). Increasing your chances for a happy ending involves all of the above - buy a quality extinguisher (mine is Halon), don't go overboard on size, mount it securely in an easily accessible location, and make sure you know how to use it. Good luck, and I hope you never need it - for your car, or someone else's.
Does Halon work on gasoline fires? I thought it needed to be in an enclosed area and only good on electrical fires. I know that being a gas it is easy to clean up.
Does Halon work on gasoline fires? I thought it needed to be in an enclosed area and only good on electrical fires. I know that being a gas it is easy to clean up.
Marty
Yes, Halon is rated for Class B (flammable liquid) fires. You do NOT want to use Halon in any tightly enclosed area as it displaces oxygen and does not support life. Just like the old Carbon Tetrachloride extinguishers from years ago, if you stick your head into a tight space to discharge the extinguisher, there is the chance you could be overcome. That's the reason that computer rooms that used Halon dump systems had a time-delayed activation device coupled with an evacuation alarm to alert any occupants to eave the area. Under-hood fires (the most common) are a safe area to use Halon extinguishers. Under the dashboard, just stay outside the car in the fresh air and direct the extinguisher onto the fire area.
I bought one of the small auto extinguishers, with the intention of placing it in the "glove box" between the seats. However, once I got it in there, I realized it would be hard to get out in a rush.
I ended up installing it on the floor next to the drivers seat. There is actually a bunch of room between the seat and the door. It is out of the way, doesn't cause any issues getting in/out of the car, and is in a position to grab as I bail out of the car.
The only issue is that I drilled a couple of holes in the floor to mount it there, so if you are dealing with something other than a "driver" quality car, you can either use velcro or somewhere else.
I have a new Vintage Motorsport column this month on fire extinguishers.
The most important thing is that you find a place to practice putting out a fire. A lot of local fire departments have classes and so do a lot of the local people who sell fire extinguishers. If you've never fought a real fire the extinguisher won't do you much good. You should practice on a real fire and have someone coach you while you put out the fire.
Mounting is a huge deal. I've seen people killed by their extinguisher. If you have a severe accident the extinguisher can break loose and become a missile. The case I'm familiar with was a race accident and the bottle hit him in the upper body.
I hope the driver pulls the pin before they go on track.
I concur! I have had a fire (at Daytona) AND I have also been involved in a crash which resulted in the (mounted) fire extinguisher becomming a missle. Fortunately it missed ME.
07-26-2016, 11:22 AM
