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This morning, I went out to the garage and noticed there was quite a puddle underneath my corvette. I checked the fluid and it was anti-freeze. The driver side bolts backed out slightly enough to cause a leak. I guess I will have to check them before I take any more rides.
Jim, you'll probably be fine after tightening up the water pump bolts. In my case, I had a couple leak issues at the water pump on the '61 and decided to modify a new mount to pick up the lower block holes.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
I check the bolts for tightness once a year. DO NOT use RTV silicone when putting it together. It seems to work for me as I've had zero leaks in 42 years of ownership.
Try using some split ring lock washers under the head of the bolts.
I have not tried that. I thought the ARP bolts would torque down really well. Maybe my bolts are getting lose from chassis flex coming off the line from so much torque.
I ran into this a year ago. It was recommended to me by this forum to use Permatex non-hardening sealer on the gaskets. I used it on the bolt threads, too. No leaks. If it leaks again, the mount is getting modified. It's an asinine design, and a major reason my car was mothballed for 20 years before I got it.
[QUOTE=jimh_1962;1592709216]I have not tried that. I thought the ARP bolts would torque down really well. Maybe my bolts are getting lose from chassis flex coming off the line from so much torque.
Sounds like your water pump doesn't have the correct torque rating.................
You have to drink the Kool Aid with the old C1s. The engine mounting is odd, the clutch bellcrank "single shear" design sucks, and, oh boy, those windshield wiper/washers!
Part of what makes the cars endearing to some and despised by others...
I think I just need to check them ever so often is all. Really I need a checklist board on my wall and keep track of what I have done with dates. Or keep a log book.
I think I just need to check them ever so often is all. Really I need a checklist board on my wall and keep track of what I have done with dates. Or keep a log book.
I have always used Locktite and never had a problem. I did have a broken bolt many years ago when I bought the car. I always tighten once and After I have driven the and then Tighten again. No leaks.
Try using some split ring lock washers under the head of the bolts.
A friend who vintage races his '57 used to have trouble with the WP bolts working loose. For him, the solution wasn't just split ring lock washers but "high collar" split ring washers.
I suspect Loctite would have accomplished the same thing, but this is another option.
Or you can do this and never have to deal with it again:
Did this on two different motors running 400+ hp and no more problems as it prevents any gasket shear due to engine torque.
When I rebuilt my engine I had the holes drilled and the pins installed. i haven't had a leak since. The other plus is, you can change the water pump without blocking up the engine.
I ran into this a year ago. It was recommended to me by this forum to use Permatex non-hardening sealer on the gaskets. I used it on the bolt threads, too. No leaks. If it leaks again, the mount is getting modified. It's an asinine design, and a major reason my car was mothballed for 20 years before I got it.
This problem/issue has been occuring since these cars were built new. And there have been multiple "fixes" for the problem. Klaus' and Mike's above are among the better fixes. I am doing a fix similar to Mike's above using thick stainless and bolting it to the crossover mount.
Below is my mockup. The next time I have the water pump off I will install the additional braces.
Also, something not mentioned, is the gaskets BETWEEN the cross over and the block. As the engine torques back and forth, these are the gaskets which become more damaged (consequently a leak) rather than the gaskets between the cross over and the pump. I frequently check the torque on the 4 bolts. BUT, I have replaced the 4 water pump bolts with stainless studs/nuts. This make everything easier to work on, PLUS, with stainless studs, they are not subjected to rusting issues in the block like regular steel bolts do.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Another fix is too make sure you pre-load the cross bracket in the direction of the engine torque as you tighten the bolts, so when it does try to twist it's got no where to move. Lift up on the drivers side, down on the passengers. (if memory serves me right?)
Chevy Orange, from what I've seen. Also, good point on pre-loading the mount so it can't move during engine torque. I read about that previously, and clocked mine that way when I did the repair the right way, the second time.
I don't know about this "pre-loading" and all these extra brackets. The only way that it would be needed is if the bolt holes in the mount were enlarged due to corrosion. If the mount is in good condition, you shouldn't be able to twist it at all. Like I posted above, no leaks for me in over 42 years.
07-26-2016, 10:31 AM
water pump bolts came loose again
Sounds like your water pump doesn't have the correct torque rating.................
