[C1] Original '57 - what's a mystery?
08-23-2016, 10:27 AM
#21
Race Director
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I had never thought about getting the car judged, since that is not my interest. However, these gentlemen make a great point. By getting the car judged, you will know exactly where you are with the car and what to do. I would personally fix it and drive it, and never have it judged again. But I would get it judged initially, so that I would be made aware of any potential issues I would otherwise possibly screw up by 'fixing' it. Sounds to be like it'll need a basic engine overhaul (NO decking, as stated), new exhaust, new clutch, new clutches in the posi, new tires and belts/hoses, new brakes, and good to roll. I removed the original corroded hydraulic brake items on my '61 and saved them for future reference, but simply bolted on Rock Auto parts that arrived at my door. Brakes in a day. Keep the neat photos coming!!
If the car is truly untouched I would proceed with caution. Clean the car within an inch of it's life. Get the car running and see what it may need to run and drive. Replace only what absolutely has to be replaced. Leave the rest alone
08-23-2016, 12:58 PM
#23
Race Director
I would have the car judged before I do anything. NCRS, or BG, judges can point out things that you might never notice. Once you start taking things apart you're basically screwed.
Even an aggressive cleaning would screw this car up.
If you need something to do you can start by changing all the fluids, including the brake fluid. NOTE: Do Not use Silicone fluid.
You want to get the car operational without changing any parts.
I would plan on not doing anything for at least a year. Take to it NCRS shows and collect advice from the judges.
I though my '58 was mainly original until I started working on it. Wow - was that an experience. I can't tell you how many redneck fixes I found.
Richard Newton
Even an aggressive cleaning would screw this car up.
If you need something to do you can start by changing all the fluids, including the brake fluid. NOTE: Do Not use Silicone fluid.
You want to get the car operational without changing any parts.
I would plan on not doing anything for at least a year. Take to it NCRS shows and collect advice from the judges.
I though my '58 was mainly original until I started working on it. Wow - was that an experience. I can't tell you how many redneck fixes I found.
Richard Newton
All you have to do is to flush the system with denatured alcohol before using it, so as to not mix it with regular fluid. In his car I'm sure that would be a requirement in any case since it has been sitting so long............ My guess is that the rubber seals etc in the brake system on this car probably now have the consistency of stale Jello after sitting for so long, and will need to be replaced anyway. IMHO that is the perfect time to switch to Silicone fluid.
What's the problem?
Last edited by tuxnharley; 08-23-2016 at 03:10 PM. Reason: addl comment
08-23-2016, 01:45 PM
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
57'S are one of my favorites. I owned 9 of then back in the day.
I see you are from El Dorado, California, home of NOLAND ADAMS. Great guy having some senior health issues.
You need to meet JIM LOCKWOOD, who lives in Pollock Pines. He is a long time NCRS member and Corvette owner. His wife has a 58. Jim ''knows'' solid axel Corvettes. I have his phone number if you PM me, I am happy to forward.
I see you are from El Dorado, California, home of NOLAND ADAMS. Great guy having some senior health issues.
You need to meet JIM LOCKWOOD, who lives in Pollock Pines. He is a long time NCRS member and Corvette owner. His wife has a 58. Jim ''knows'' solid axel Corvettes. I have his phone number if you PM me, I am happy to forward.
08-23-2016, 03:13 PM
#25
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This just gets better and better...very interesting!
08-23-2016, 08:47 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Great Aztec Copper car. When you have a chance, look two places for original paint color that hasn't been exposed to the elements; inside the glove box and if you decide to remove the seats and carpet, you will find overspray on the floor boards.
Originality question: take a look at the weatherstrips and tell me if you find an S inside a diamond shape that is molded into the rubber. These logo's will be spaced at various intervals on the door mains, deck lid, trunk lid and hood ledge that meets the cowl when shut. If you find any of these, they are the original weatherstrips and should be preserved if at all possible.
Panama 58
Originality question: take a look at the weatherstrips and tell me if you find an S inside a diamond shape that is molded into the rubber. These logo's will be spaced at various intervals on the door mains, deck lid, trunk lid and hood ledge that meets the cowl when shut. If you find any of these, they are the original weatherstrips and should be preserved if at all possible.
Panama 58
08-24-2016, 09:52 AM
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
Great Aztec Copper car. When you have a chance, look two places for original paint color that hasn't been exposed to the elements; inside the glove box and if you decide to remove the seats and carpet, you will find overspray on the floor boards.
Originality question: take a look at the weatherstrips and tell me if you find an S inside a diamond shape that is molded into the rubber. These logo's will be spaced at various intervals on the door mains, deck lid, trunk lid and hood ledge that meets the cowl when shut. If you find any of these, they are the original weatherstrips and should be preserved if at all possible.
Panama 58
Originality question: take a look at the weatherstrips and tell me if you find an S inside a diamond shape that is molded into the rubber. These logo's will be spaced at various intervals on the door mains, deck lid, trunk lid and hood ledge that meets the cowl when shut. If you find any of these, they are the original weatherstrips and should be preserved if at all possible.
Panama 58
The weatherstrip marks are as you say - image attached. They are spaced on the longer pieces such that only 2 are visible on the trunk left and right side center.
08-24-2016, 10:11 AM
#28
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This is like an archaeological dig, but more fun! Fascinating stuff. Neat, seldom-seen color combo.
08-24-2016, 10:32 AM
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Something else to add I didn't mention early on, this car was built soft top delete.
08-24-2016, 10:38 AM
#30
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This forum, technically, is one of the most advanced forums I've ever been on. There are people here who really do know about anything and everything you'd ever want to know, very high caliber and high-functioning folks. On the other hand, there can be a fair amount of ribbing and jabbing at one another from time to time as personalities clash. But the details these guys know about is amazing....and their willingness to help out is, too. Glad you're taking baby steps as you uncover your car's history/provenance. As I said, I'm not a show or judge guy....I'm a throw-it-together-and-beat-on-it guy. But your car is a very,very rare case.
08-24-2016, 11:07 AM
#31
Safety Car
Man! That is an awesome car.... Aztec Copper has to be rare... no?
Have you washed it yet? Lets see!!!!!
In the hierarchy of value... unmolested survivor cars with their original paint are pretty high up the food chain. That is why everyone is telling you to do as little as possible.
Best of luck!!!!
Have you washed it yet? Lets see!!!!!
In the hierarchy of value... unmolested survivor cars with their original paint are pretty high up the food chain. That is why everyone is telling you to do as little as possible.
Best of luck!!!!
08-24-2016, 11:27 AM
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
Man! That is an awesome car.... Aztec Copper has to be rare... no?
Have you washed it yet? Lets see!!!!!
In the hierarchy of value... unmolested survivor cars with their original paint are pretty high up the food chain. That is why everyone is telling you to do as little as possible.
Best of luck!!!!
Have you washed it yet? Lets see!!!!!
In the hierarchy of value... unmolested survivor cars with their original paint are pretty high up the food chain. That is why everyone is telling you to do as little as possible.
Best of luck!!!!
08-24-2016, 12:25 PM
#35
Drifting
Cool pic!!!!!
08-25-2016, 08:02 AM
#36
Team Owner
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This is a historically significant car, and should really be documented as such.
You have a factory 270hp, 4 speed 57, in a fairly rare color.
Getting some local "NCRS type" people would be a good start.
Perhaps the biggest thing to do at this point is go through the car and figure out / document what is no longer factory original (like tires, belts, hoses, clamps, etc.)
Congratulations on a beautiful car.
You have a factory 270hp, 4 speed 57, in a fairly rare color.
Getting some local "NCRS type" people would be a good start.
Perhaps the biggest thing to do at this point is go through the car and figure out / document what is no longer factory original (like tires, belts, hoses, clamps, etc.)
Congratulations on a beautiful car.
08-25-2016, 09:50 AM
#37
Melting Slicks
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I mentioned in another post regarding the paint that it is similar to a freshly minted penny - the current issue that has a pink tint. I noticed this in places behind the door panels. I'll try to get a CYMK and hex match for display correction at some point.
The weatherstrip marks are as you say - image attached. They are spaced on the longer pieces such that only 2 are visible on the trunk left and right side center.
The weatherstrip marks are as you say - image attached. They are spaced on the longer pieces such that only 2 are visible on the trunk left and right side center.
PS- you will also see at the cut ends of all of the weatherstrips a small white (yellowed) spec of material. This is a cord material that was laid into the freshly poured rubber to provide support along the spline of the w/s. Obviously, when the w/s was cut to fit you can still see the end of the cord.
08-25-2016, 10:08 AM
#38
Racer
Thread Starter
Exactly what you want to see. Does the original still exist on the hood? When you have the hood up (open) it will be at the top of the hood, or in other words when closed it will be the end towards the rear and at the cowl. If it's still there, I would like to know where along the length of the w/s the logo is located.
PS- you will also see at the cut ends of all of the weatherstrips a small white (yellowed) spec of material. This is a cord material that was laid into the freshly poured rubber to provide support along the spline of the w/s. Obviously, when the w/s was cut to fit you can still see the end of the cord.
PS- you will also see at the cut ends of all of the weatherstrips a small white (yellowed) spec of material. This is a cord material that was laid into the freshly poured rubber to provide support along the spline of the w/s. Obviously, when the w/s was cut to fit you can still see the end of the cord.
08-25-2016, 10:28 AM
#40
Melting Slicks
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May I ask one more favor. If you could take a few pics of the door mains at the top where there should be a little metal clip that goes over the cut end. This would be just below the window and to the side of the exterior door handle. There is always a bunch of confusion as to how this should look for judging. Thanks.