327 small journal questions
#21
We're into the 100% stock-appearing builds all the time, just delivered a '65 Vette unit, S/J, relatively low comp, and retro-hyd roller. All stock numbered/dated components, "870" block, "461" heads, small valves, made over 330 HP @ 5900 with 380# Torque @ 3600.
C.R. set at 9.7. Fully-rollered with OEM valve covers and single-thick gaskets! Customer did choose a Holley carb over the AFB, but saved the carb to go back to original!
This unit is built with absolutley no "chasing" HP numbers, it was a bolt-together build. If you decided to "chase" HP I suspect you get up to 400 HP easily?? The S/J 2 B.M.'s are fine but need to be studded! We use OEM head bolts with some "hidden" head bolt washers to save the heads!
This was an easy build for us. We work very closely with a resto shop, right down to the gasket appearances.
(Add) We are now able to build these early roller SB's with NO more cam buttons for the roller setup or chasing cam end play, those days are behind us now! This eliminates the worry about timing cover "flex", nothing touches the covers anymore. We are using the later cam thrust plate setup in these early castings now, end-play is "fixed" at about .003"! This is our own in-house design as of a few months ago.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I would add this, I would consider it very foolish to NOT set it up with a retro-hyd roller cam WITH "real" roller rockers, this setup gives you some "free" 30+ HP. It's also not as expensive as many believe. The actual benefits far out-weigh the small (in my opinion) add'l cost!
C.R. set at 9.7. Fully-rollered with OEM valve covers and single-thick gaskets! Customer did choose a Holley carb over the AFB, but saved the carb to go back to original!
This unit is built with absolutley no "chasing" HP numbers, it was a bolt-together build. If you decided to "chase" HP I suspect you get up to 400 HP easily?? The S/J 2 B.M.'s are fine but need to be studded! We use OEM head bolts with some "hidden" head bolt washers to save the heads!
This was an easy build for us. We work very closely with a resto shop, right down to the gasket appearances.
(Add) We are now able to build these early roller SB's with NO more cam buttons for the roller setup or chasing cam end play, those days are behind us now! This eliminates the worry about timing cover "flex", nothing touches the covers anymore. We are using the later cam thrust plate setup in these early castings now, end-play is "fixed" at about .003"! This is our own in-house design as of a few months ago.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. I would add this, I would consider it very foolish to NOT set it up with a retro-hyd roller cam WITH "real" roller rockers, this setup gives you some "free" 30+ HP. It's also not as expensive as many believe. The actual benefits far out-weigh the small (in my opinion) add'l cost!
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Coach62 (12-06-2016)
#22
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Last call.
You indicated you wanted to not lose the value of your original engine. If you get 400 hp out of that plug, there won't be anything left stock on it. So, you've destroyed the value of your original engine and spend a load on brand new replacement parts. Never mind that you probably won't enjoy a 400 hp 327 to have for a daily driver. Now, a 400 hp 400 CI engine would be considerably more friendly to street manners.
Take the easy, cheap route out. Get a big cubic inch replacement engine and save the value of your original engine. Don't forget to save a little extra for a performance exhaust system. The exhaust system in your Camaro is okay for 210 hp but the same system with 400 hp pushing through it is like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe and calling it good.
You indicated you wanted to not lose the value of your original engine. If you get 400 hp out of that plug, there won't be anything left stock on it. So, you've destroyed the value of your original engine and spend a load on brand new replacement parts. Never mind that you probably won't enjoy a 400 hp 327 to have for a daily driver. Now, a 400 hp 400 CI engine would be considerably more friendly to street manners.
Take the easy, cheap route out. Get a big cubic inch replacement engine and save the value of your original engine. Don't forget to save a little extra for a performance exhaust system. The exhaust system in your Camaro is okay for 210 hp but the same system with 400 hp pushing through it is like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe and calling it good.
Last edited by MikeM; 12-05-2016 at 03:27 PM.
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Coach62 (12-05-2016)
#24
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St. Jude Donor '12
Last call.
You indicated you wanted to not lose the value of your original engine. If you get 400 hp out of that plug, there won't be anything left stock on it. So, you've destroyed the value of your original engine and spend a load on brand new replacement parts. Never mind that you probably won't enjoy a 400 hp 327 to have for a daily driver. Now, a 400 hp 400 CI engine would be considerably more friendly to street manners.
Take the easy, cheap route out. Get a big cubic inch replacement engine and save the value of your original engine. Don't forget to save a little extra for a performance exhaust system. The exhaust system in your Camaro is okay for 210 hp but the same system with 400 hp pushing through it is like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe and calling it good.
You indicated you wanted to not lose the value of your original engine. If you get 400 hp out of that plug, there won't be anything left stock on it. So, you've destroyed the value of your original engine and spend a load on brand new replacement parts. Never mind that you probably won't enjoy a 400 hp 327 to have for a daily driver. Now, a 400 hp 400 CI engine would be considerably more friendly to street manners.
Take the easy, cheap route out. Get a big cubic inch replacement engine and save the value of your original engine. Don't forget to save a little extra for a performance exhaust system. The exhaust system in your Camaro is okay for 210 hp but the same system with 400 hp pushing through it is like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe and calling it good.
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I wanted strong power and response, but also a good hiway driver. That's why I went with the SB400 and 3.08 posi. It makes a good combination.
Most of you have seen pictures of my engine which I built to SIMULATE a 57 FI 283. Only very knowledgeable people/judges can tell that it is not a 283.
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I say go with a crate motor since you're doing a complete color change on the car anyway. Originality will be lost, so go with bang-for-the-buck. A crate 383 or 406 stroker would work wonders and still be bread-and-butter driveable.
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Last call.
You indicated you wanted to not lose the value of your original engine. If you get 400 hp out of that plug, there won't be anything left stock on it. So, you've destroyed the value of your original engine and spend a load on brand new replacement parts. Never mind that you probably won't enjoy a 400 hp 327 to have for a daily driver. Now, a 400 hp 400 CI engine would be considerably more friendly to street manners.
Take the easy, cheap route out. Get a big cubic inch replacement engine and save the value of your original engine. Don't forget to save a little extra for a performance exhaust system. The exhaust system in your Camaro is okay for 210 hp but the same system with 400 hp pushing through it is like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe and calling it good.
You indicated you wanted to not lose the value of your original engine. If you get 400 hp out of that plug, there won't be anything left stock on it. So, you've destroyed the value of your original engine and spend a load on brand new replacement parts. Never mind that you probably won't enjoy a 400 hp 327 to have for a daily driver. Now, a 400 hp 400 CI engine would be considerably more friendly to street manners.
Take the easy, cheap route out. Get a big cubic inch replacement engine and save the value of your original engine. Don't forget to save a little extra for a performance exhaust system. The exhaust system in your Camaro is okay for 210 hp but the same system with 400 hp pushing through it is like sticking a potato in the exhaust pipe and calling it good.
I'm far better off "bagging and tagging" the stocker and putting in a 400 - 427 SBC. There are tons of Dart blocks and forged rotating assemblies brand new on ebay for $3,500. 383's with new forged rotating assemblies are in the $1,800 range.
I think in the long run, that makes a lot more sense. I'll keep everything that was original.
#28
Steve
Last edited by seb67; 12-06-2016 at 11:41 AM.
#29
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ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL 350 engines, INCLUDING the 67 Camaro SS350 engine, were large journal. That engine had some unique features not found on 68-later 350 engines, but it was still a large journal 350.
It was also a hybrid engine, in that it shared features common to 67-earlier small blocks as well as 68-later small blocks. Probably the most notable feature of the 67 Camaro 350 engine was that it still had the hole in the rear of the block for crankcase ventilation which permitted using solid valve covers with no holes on a block with a large journal crank.
For a few years, there were also some service replacement blocks (512) which could be used for either 67-earlier or 68-later applications. Those service replacement blocks also had large journals as well as the hole in the rear of the block (67 was the last year for that hole in PRODUCTION cars) for crankcase ventilation.
It was also a hybrid engine, in that it shared features common to 67-earlier small blocks as well as 68-later small blocks. Probably the most notable feature of the 67 Camaro 350 engine was that it still had the hole in the rear of the block for crankcase ventilation which permitted using solid valve covers with no holes on a block with a large journal crank.
For a few years, there were also some service replacement blocks (512) which could be used for either 67-earlier or 68-later applications. Those service replacement blocks also had large journals as well as the hole in the rear of the block (67 was the last year for that hole in PRODUCTION cars) for crankcase ventilation.
#30
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Hey now, that's no way to cook while you travel. If you never baked a potato on the exhaust manifold you don't know how to save travel time and have hot meal to.. Just wrap it in tin foil and it will be ready the next time you stop.
Well my 2 cents on storing a block is it better be worth whole lot'a money to let it take up my garage space for many years. As when you are ready to finally sell the car do you expect to have the resources to rebuild the original and put it back in??? Unlikely is my guess.
With all the 350-375hp 327 engines Chevy sold a 375hp 327 should be much easier with modern parts and headwork. Well that's what I believe, take it or leave it.
Good luck.
Well my 2 cents on storing a block is it better be worth whole lot'a money to let it take up my garage space for many years. As when you are ready to finally sell the car do you expect to have the resources to rebuild the original and put it back in??? Unlikely is my guess.
With all the 350-375hp 327 engines Chevy sold a 375hp 327 should be much easier with modern parts and headwork. Well that's what I believe, take it or leave it.
Good luck.
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Coach62 (12-05-2016)
#31
[B]
For a few years, there were also some service replacement blocks (512) which could be used for either 67-earlier or 68-later applications. Those service replacement blocks also had large journals as well as the hole in the rear of the block (67 was the last year for that hole in PRODUCTION cars) for crankcase ventilation.
For a few years, there were also some service replacement blocks (512) which could be used for either 67-earlier or 68-later applications. Those service replacement blocks also had large journals as well as the hole in the rear of the block (67 was the last year for that hole in PRODUCTION cars) for crankcase ventilation.
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey now, that's no way to cook while you travel. If you never baked a potato on the exhaust manifold you don't know how to save travel time and have hot meal to.. Just wrap it in tin foil and it will be ready the next time you stop.
Well my 2 cents on storing a block is it better be worth whole lot'a money to let it take up my garage space for many years. As when you are ready to finally sell the car do you expect to have the resources to rebuild the original and put it back in??? Unlikely is my guess.
With all the 350-375hp 327 engines Chevy sold a 375hp 327 should be much easier with modern parts and headwork. Well that's what I believe, take it or leave it.
Good luck.
Well my 2 cents on storing a block is it better be worth whole lot'a money to let it take up my garage space for many years. As when you are ready to finally sell the car do you expect to have the resources to rebuild the original and put it back in??? Unlikely is my guess.
With all the 350-375hp 327 engines Chevy sold a 375hp 327 should be much easier with modern parts and headwork. Well that's what I believe, take it or leave it.
Good luck.
Were the 375 HP rotating assemblies the same? Pistons, rods, etc.? I know the only difference between the 210 and 275 HP 327's in the 1967's were the heads, intake and carb. So a set of AL heads, intake and headers and you're already well over 300 HP. Roller cam conversion and you should be close to 400 HP with good street manners.
But - someone said the rods were the weak point. So are we still pulling the engine? Are the rods the same as the 375 HP? Anyone know?
#33
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build a 327, it is what you really want. start with a different block if you fear for the safety of your NMM
anyone can get power out of cubes, but getting a little motor to run is pretty darn satisfying, if I do say so myself
anyone can get power out of cubes, but getting a little motor to run is pretty darn satisfying, if I do say so myself
#34
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Here is an example of how strong/durable a factory Chevy 66-67 style small journal rod is (and they were used rods to begin with).
This is a 420SB in my jet boat, and I beat the crap out of it!
I built this engine myself (I build all my engines). Got the information from a HOTROD mag article MANY years ago. It has a CAST 400 crank with the rod journals OFF SET ground down to small journal size (added .100 stroke) + a .040 bore. I used bone stock 66-67 style 327 rods which only had the beams polished (did it myself on the workbench) and then had them shot peened and installed ARP Waveloc bolts and had my machinist resize them. That motor ain't come apart yet!
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Coach62 (12-06-2016)
#35
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So how fast were you going there?
I've made my final decision. I'm going to massage the 327, not go overboard to get in the area of 375 HP. I will NOT beat it to death.
If / when I get tired of that (remember I'm coming from a 650 HP Z06), then I'll go the nuclear option and bag and tag the motor. I'll put in a 400+ ci SBC and run the pizz outta it.
PS - the 355 I built for my first 67 Camaro was built directly from a Super Chevy article in the 1980's using a Comp Cams 268H cam and 186X double hump heads. (when did these kids start calling double hump heads camel hump heads?????) That engine would run high 11's / Low 12's and was a VERY reliable street motor, economical, reliable, etc. And that was with 2.73 gears!
I was consistently ranked in the top 5 for Div 3 NHRA and printed in the National Dragster magazine every week. Tons O Fun.
I've made my final decision. I'm going to massage the 327, not go overboard to get in the area of 375 HP. I will NOT beat it to death.
If / when I get tired of that (remember I'm coming from a 650 HP Z06), then I'll go the nuclear option and bag and tag the motor. I'll put in a 400+ ci SBC and run the pizz outta it.
PS - the 355 I built for my first 67 Camaro was built directly from a Super Chevy article in the 1980's using a Comp Cams 268H cam and 186X double hump heads. (when did these kids start calling double hump heads camel hump heads?????) That engine would run high 11's / Low 12's and was a VERY reliable street motor, economical, reliable, etc. And that was with 2.73 gears!
I was consistently ranked in the top 5 for Div 3 NHRA and printed in the National Dragster magazine every week. Tons O Fun.
Last edited by Coach62; 12-06-2016 at 01:03 AM.
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#37
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Coach, one thing to consider: the context of the car itself. A 650 HP ZO6 is smooth and refined, and would feel less visceral and brutal than a 50 year old L-88. Hell, my 20HP '15 Ford is plenty exciting at 40mph.....and my lowly 360HP '65 GTO 'feels' faster than the new rocket ships, even though it isn't. I think your old Camaro with 300-400HP on tap will be a blast to drive, and every bit as enjoyable as your modern super car.
#38
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Coach, one thing to consider: the context of the car itself. A 650 HP ZO6 is smooth and refined, and would feel less visceral and brutal than a 50 year old L-88. Hell, my 20HP '15 Ford is plenty exciting at 40mph.....and my lowly 360HP '65 GTO 'feels' faster than the new rocket ships, even though it isn't. I think your old Camaro with 300-400HP on tap will be a blast to drive, and every bit as enjoyable as your modern super car.
Last edited by DZAUTO; 12-06-2016 at 12:13 PM.
#39
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I don't know, but most of the time it's full throttle-----------------there is no speed limit on the lake, no traffic lights, no fines for not using a turn signal, and on MOST lakes in Okla, no noise restrictions. Fast on the water is just a blast!!!
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
And I have to agree with all of the above!!!! BUT, today's super cars just DO NOT excite me for one second. I am still, and always be, hung up on the old time muscle/hi-performance cars, beginning with Chevy powered 32 Fords, 55 Chevys, LS6 Chevelles, etc, etc, etc, as well as home made engines in these early cars--------------------such as a 67 Camaro.
Thank God for old skills coming back quick, like thinking to pump the brakes up.
Last edited by Coach62; 12-06-2016 at 12:25 PM.