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stainless steel rear brake lines?

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Old 02-15-2017, 11:34 AM   #1
alski444
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Default stainless steel rear brake lines?

I am installing SS brake lines to the rear wheel cylinders and when the line is tighten up, their is a 1/8" space.Does this use no copper washer or is their a special thicker copper washer,that did not come with the kit.Thanks,Alan
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Old 02-15-2017, 12:39 PM   #2
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arent your lines flared at the end and seal against the seat in the fittings?
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Old 02-15-2017, 08:06 PM   #3
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"MelWff' is correct.

The sealing ability of the fitting you showed in your FIRST photo DOES NOT require anything but it being tight. The fitting is sealing on the inside.

So the gap you see is fine...and does not need a washer or anything.

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Old 02-15-2017, 08:10 PM   #4
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Looks good to me. I have the same lines.
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Old 02-15-2017, 08:26 PM   #5
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Thanks for the quick reply.Was not sure,when it come to brakes.Thank you.Alan
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alski444 View Post
Thanks for the quick reply.Was not sure,when it come to brakes.Thank you.Alan
When it comes to stainless steel brake lines, they have to be very tight. I wouldn't use them again, I did a car over using them and had a tough time keeping the fittings from seeping. Regular steel lines are accurate and will out last us by a long shot.

Dan

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Old 02-17-2017, 02:03 PM   #7
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When it comes to stainless steel brake lines, they have to be very tight. I wouldn't use them again, I did a car over using them and had a tough time keeping the fittings from seeping. Regular steel lines are accurate and will out last us by a long shot.

Dan
I agree-unless you're after show car pretty, the standard steel lines will outlive the owner and the car for that matter. And cost less too.
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:55 PM   #8
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I also have fallen into not liking stainless steel lines due to the hassle getting the lines to not leak. They have to go in 'just right' in order to get a good seal. I do stay with stainless steel fuel lines that mount on the frame...but have prefer not using the stainless steel line from the pump to the carburetor due o getting it to not leak at the carburetor fitting can take a while...and that is where gettign it to go straight into the fitting is so important.

I have gone to making my own lines and using this with teh spiral wire shielding.

http://agscompany.com/product-catego...-lines/nicopp/

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Old 02-17-2017, 11:55 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info,it was really a tight fit to get the wrench to tighten up the front brakes lines.But if they start to leak,I will take them off,immediately.Thanks,Alan
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:42 AM   #10
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I used SS brake lines and silicone DOT 5 fluid.
The key to stop leaks is to loosen and tighten the lines until there are no leaks. Worked just fine after doing that a few times.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:37 AM   #11
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I used SS brake lines and silicone DOT 5 fluid.
The key to stop leaks is to loosen and tighten the lines until there are no leaks. Worked just fine after doing that a few times.
I have stainless lines and use Dot 3 fluid. I did have trouble with seeping fittings at first. But after tightening them very tight a few times it hasn't leaked for 50,000 miles.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiovet View Post
I used SS brake lines and silicone DOT 5 fluid.
The key to stop leaks is to loosen and tighten the lines until there are no leaks. Worked just fine after doing that a few times.
That's the way to tighten ss lines. Tighten and back off several times and they seal up nicely.
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:44 PM   #13
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That's the way to tighten ss lines. Tighten and back off several times and they seal up nicely.
100%. But sometimes by doing this...depending on the material that the fitting that you are threading into..it can distort an never seal.

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Old 02-18-2017, 09:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiovet View Post
I used SS brake lines and silicone DOT 5 fluid.
The key to stop leaks is to loosen and tighten the lines until there are no leaks. Worked just fine after doing that a few times.
Three or four cycles of tightening - loosening seem to conform the flare to the seat and seal up better. Since SS lines are typically harder they don't seem to conform as well as regular steel tubing.
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